Unobtanium

Surefire has replaced things for me, too. Their CS is EXCELLENT regarding warranty claims.

The host cost around $140. It is a Surefire 6P finished in IIIa anodizing (OEM is IIa) with a black stainless smooth bezel ring and a McClicky switch to handle the additional amperage. The LED module ran me $55 shipped as I spec'ed it.

Lok-tite the blade in place with blue LT or something else that is not permanent and you will save yourself either an extra set of hands, or a lot of cursing.

I love cross-examining company claims. Anyway, the CS rep I spoke with today said the rails are still 3-4 weeks out, and was unaware of any design change, stating "we just need to make more". Well, I got my shipping information tonight. Says it shipped and I have a tracking #. Go figure.

Quoted for posterity.

11721's! HOLY CRAP! Sorry, I had to, lol. Very nice! Amazing how that Ti tube fits so tight in there! I think it's the most precisely engineered part on an M4S90 the moment it's installed.

One person on another forum has that I know of. They report characteristics of operation to be unchanged to their perception.

Thanks. Just "un-screw" the rear sight adjustment ALL the way as I recall (been a year or two), and the front is visually self-explanatory. Here: http://www.tacticalshotgunner.com/meprolite-tritium-ghost-ring-night-sights-for-benelli-shotguns-p-210.html PN is the same for M1 or M4. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23654/Product/FRONT_SIGHT_RETAINING_NUT Realistically, having shot AR platforms at night with night-sights, I question the need/utility for it. I'm not discouraging the mod, just saying that it is hard to make hits at night with night sights. Do not expect them to be a "game-changer". At best in most situations it will just help you find the weapon/assess where the muzzle is pointing better. I think a reflex type sight would be better. http://www.opticsplanet.net/burris-fastfire-w-picatinny-mount-4-moa-dot-mat-fastfire-sight.html My next M4 is getting most everything on the market, and night sights are not on the list.

You will need to buy a new (get a couple, they are cheap) locking nut from Brownells for the front-sight. It rounds easily. It has a nylon "sleeve" and DO NOT! use thread-locker on it. The nylon is enough. You will also need a 5.5mm wrench. Installation is pretty straight-forward. Do you have any questions in specific?

Thanks! Owned since Feb. and no tickets.2900 miles so far. watched them build it in bowling green. had a great time up there !

Barrel length doesn't matter. It's the lack of a choke. You have MOD constriction and that's it. Either the shot you are shooting likes THAT "choke", or it doesn't.

Pre-ban. Means not subject to 922r as I understand, which is still a current pinko law. Pre-ban is also a description of the weapon, as it is an HK and not a Benelli, technically, as I understand it.

The m4 has a split time of .17 seconds per the only test I have read. With your ti/a2 handle this may be slightly diminished.

The nice thing is, "all" you have to do is copy the OEM in an appropriate material/heat-treated part and laser USA on it. No R&D into design required.

I went with the Surefire M80, but I am with you. I wish we could get just oooooone more part.

Individual guns like individual stuff. A shotgun/slug combo is not like a pistol or rifle even in that you can recommend a certain brand for a certain gun. They are all quirky and need to be tested individually. That said, I have had good luck with 1oz Remington Sluggers. Choke-size has not effected group size with these slugs, and a Foster slug is safe to fire from any size choke up to and including full. TYPICALLY IC will show the best results (supposedly), but my testing did not show a difference that I could attribute to the choke. Obviously I wouldn't start with a "Full" choke, nor would I recommend it, only that it won't blow up (unless it's a "thin-wall"-not good for slugs anyway, which your M4 is not).

My 550+ OTF lumen LED module arrived and I fitted it to my 6P. Absurd is the only way to describe it. The hot-spot is massive but bright, and the corona has some real "punch" to it. Side/ambient spill is a result of the sick output. The tint is as spec'ed--warm/neutral and cream-colored like the center of an HID high-beam on a car, but without the "blue" tinge. Anyway, very awesome, and as much as I like Malkoff's modules, this thing slaughters the M60 by several magnitudes. If I had a Malkoff still in my inventory, I would compare. If you have one of his M61W's like I gave my Dad, just imagine that x 250% or so in every way.

It's meant to be used on an AR-15/M4 type weapon when you do not want a co-witness or for a lower 1/3 co-witness, depending on the height selected.

Very nice to see you active on this forum! I just bought a collapsible M4 stock. I bought it because I got a great deal, and because of things I heard about the grip on the Urbino. Like I said, "heard", not "experienced." Has Mesa changed anything with the grip, what was/is the deal?

It worked okay with the OEM handle except that the button hit the receiver. I didn't like that. Meant I was giving up some amount of travel and I found I had to press on it "all the way" to release the bolt. Any piece of muck between the button and receiver would have prevented bolt-release. I didn't think it the best.

Kip's rail is the same height as the original. There is no way to co-witness because the rear sight on the M4 is "too low". The lowest mount available for the T1 is the integrated T1 mount. If that did not co-witness on your M4 with the OEM rail, nothing else will, either.

Not possible. You won't get any lower than the factory mount. It will not co-witness lower 1/3 or absolute. However, you can put Kip's rail on the weapon, and then use a LaRue QD mount for your T1 (Or if you like ADM mounts better, I have one I can sell you for a reasonable price--PM me an offer after checking their MSRP's, although I do recommend LaRue over them, this one is cheaper obviously since it's used.) The whole purpose of a co-witness is to provide instant intel to you if the weapon is roughhoused that one of the sight devices is grossly off if they shift position relative to one another, and to provide instant back-up if the electronic optic goes down. While you lose the checks/balances feature of a co-witness, a QD mounted optic can be jettisoned very fast and get you back in the game. So far, it's the best solution at present. If you want to try ADM's lowest mount for the T1 optic, just shoot me a PM with a reasonable offer. I still even have their own special little orange "lok-tite" that they ship with it. I used blue. Other than normal marks from usage on the square range and a touch of the lok-tite still in areas you can't wipe off, looks OEM, but it's used and I'm selling it as such if you or anyone else wants it.

The GG&G button is a pain. I used to have one. Solution? CMM bolt release and a Dawson Precision 1911 oversize mag-release button. Perfect for me and it cost a lot less.

I have a lot of experience with it through various barrels. Cool on the Vinci!

My SFM80 rail was on back-order apparently. So, I called SF to see what the deal was (Massive LE order, production ceased, etc.). Anyway, they said that they had revised the "lip" on the metal portion to help eliminate installation errors and increase stability, and that mine would be one of the new one's, shipping in 2-3 weeks.