StrangerDanger

Locktiting the stock retaining screw into the receiver extension would work. The only issue would be if you ever need to remove it. You'd need a heatgun or a MAPP torch to break the threadlocker before unscrewing it. The part is difficult to remove since it uses an odd ball size bit to unscrew it. Even with a proper bit, there isn't much bite on the fastener. It would be really easy to strip.

Also, I should mention that I've put nearly a 1000 rounds through the M4 since it came back from WMD Guns. Lots of weak birdshot, high brass #4 birdshot, 00 buckshot and slugs. Initially, I experienced some jamming on weak birdshot. The bolt would cycle to the rear, and get stuck. Bumping the bolt handle would continue the bolt into battery. As I've put more rounds through the weapon, reliability has improved. Basically it's like breaking the weapon in all over again. The finish is holding up well. Example, after a 1000 rounds, none of the Cerakote has worn off of the area around the ejection port. Another nice thing about the finish is it doesn't leave finger prints. There is no need to wipe down the steel parts with oil to prevent rust. So everything is basically chemically degreased. Dust isn't attracted to it. I did some night shooting with the new weapon light mount. The button couldn't be in a better position for momentary and constant on control. No issues with the mount deforming, melting or deteriorating from high heat exposure. I did a lot of shooting several evenings out here in the Mojave. My IR temp gun said the barrel was about 160 degrees through various stages. Even the handguards themselves were about 120 degrees.

Photos should be back up in a few days. Just finalized my sling setup. The rear sling mount is shown here: http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-buttstock-sling-mount-n-slot/ I shoot right handed, but I set the QD socket so it is on the right side of the weapon (ejection port side). This keeps the sling from interfering with shouldering the stock. When mounted on the left side, the sling would bunch up against my pectoral major muscle and prevent me from getting the butt of the stock into my shoulder. Having the mount on the left side also allows the weapon to roll away from your body. This can cause some discomfort during longer carry sessions since the pistol grip tends to dig into your back. No modifications were needed to fit this mount to the collapsible stock. I just had to tap the screws through the slot with a derlin punch to get through. I slide the mount to the bottom of the sling slot and tightened the screws. The QD mount ships with two different sized spacers that go under the fasteners side of the mount. I used the larger of the two. Having the mount point on the right side prevents the weapon from rolling away from you. The forward mounts are on the left side of the receiver. I have two QD ports present. One on the modified BLAM4 mount and another attached directly to the FFT handguard. The sling I'm using is a VCAS padded sling with QD ends sewn into it. The adjustment strap allows you to cinch the weapon to your body during hikes/patrols where the weapon isn't needed to be at the ready. Add slack with the tab, and you have all the free movement you desire. Enough so that it doesn't interfere with loading too much. By far, this is the best sling setup I've ever used on the M4. All other setups would induce a lot of weapon roll or impede shouldering the weapon properly. I'd always end up with the buttpad more on my arm rather than in the pocket of my shoulder as a result. Also, a big shout out goes to bm4sbs. He sent me a QD mount from IWC to play with. I haven't used it yet, since I'll need the lathe to make it work. I'm not sure if it will be needed, since I'm pretty happy with this current setup. Thanks anyway though.

WMD did a good job in my opinion. Cosmetically it looks awesome, and the function is great too. Cleaning is a lot easier. Cycling he action on the M4 is definitely smoother. I've put almost a 1000 rounds through it since its return. The top coating isn't as resistant to wear as I would have liked. It's pretty easy to scuff. I don't really care that much about scuffs and wear, but others might. The price was right. I paid 825 shipped for the four weapons I did. I'd do it again, but I might skip the top coating and leave it all NiB. The NiB seems pretty wear resistant.

Great price.

Yep. Have to cut the stock open to recover your parts. Then you'll probably FUBAR the stock retaining screw when you try to remove it from the screw. The entire exterior is threaded, so you're stuck trying to retain the part with enough tension for the screw to break the thread locker. That part isn't cheap either, it's like 25 bucks. You'd do well cooking the part with a MAPP torch to break the hold. As the kids would say, this design is an epic fail.

Sharkey, What did you put locktite on? I hope you didn't put it on the screw that holds the stock to the receiver extension. You will have a nightmare on your hands if you try to disassemble it. The threaded portion will unscrew. One user got socked in the face by the stock when he was removing it since the recoil spring pushed it off.

That's lead on your patch. It has a silverish finish. You're fine with your cleaning routine. It's hard to screw up a smooth bored chrome lined barrel.

Do you have a thread pitch gauge? I believe the top rail screws should be 7.5mm. Did you use any kind of torque measuring gauge to torque the top rail screws? You're looking for 16 - 18 inch lbs. Too much torque and the top rail screws will strip. Not enough torque, and they'll back out and begin battering the rail during recoil. Blue Locktite is recommended. The only way to fix the holes would be either to install helicoils or have the holes rethreaded with a larger size. Both jobs are going to require a skilled gunsmith. Friction between the grip and the plastic core could be increased by degreasing both parts.

They should come back up in a few days.

What gun and what parts are these?

I ordered one in February to try out, and it has yet to ship. If the function is poor, I was going to swap parts from an OEM unit.

The bottom notch on the M4's bolt carrier is for actuating the breech latch.

Sorry I didn't see the post. Looks like you took care of it. Put some rounds through it to verify proper function before relying on it. If it is going to fail, it'll like be from the last round in the magazine tube when tension is the weakest.

I'd order up a carriercomp spring and follower if you already don't have a US made one. It's designed to be trimmed if needed. They're pretty cheap too.

It should hold 7. I wonder if there is any variable at play in the follower? Who's spring are you using? Carriercomp's? Kip advises trimming as needed. I'd snip a half coil at a time until it fits.

Innovative!

Spring trimming should help. Also make sure your spring retainer is seated so that the magazine cap is touching it on the inside. My m4 never had a spring retainer when I got it. So I ran without one for five years. You could try to insert the rounds without the retainer and see if it gives you enough space. Many shells aren't quite 2.75" long, some are a bit longer and you experience tollerance stacking that prevents the final round from seating.

I believe the caps press together on one side to retain the open position without them flipping around. I recall this was a kick start design that took off. I think the company was called IO and TD bought out the design.

You're good with four US made parts. If you want more, you'll have to go with the Freedom Fighter trigger and disconnector.

I'm putting the rear QD socket for the MOE stock through the tail stock until I can get a lathe to make the one we discussed.

I made it. I chopped up a BLAM4 bracket so it's only job is to hold the QD socket. I had it cerakoted graphite black after I cut it down. The QD socket comes from IWC. I basically opened up one of the alignment holes to .500", and filled the threaded hole with epoxy for cosmetics. The rear mount from IWC is still on back order.