StrangerDanger

Those two tabs at the base of the picatinny rail won’t seat on the inside of the handguard retainer? It’s been a while since I handled one.

Can you post a picture of the gap it’s creating and maybe a picture of the front engagement as well?

Where are you having fitting issues on it? The ones I fixed had a small amount of rubber to trim off from the section near the barrel/receiver. When Benelli added the larger seat ring to the M4 barrels, this caused some interference with the rail systems. You can easily trim it off with a razor knife or sanding wheel on a Dremel.

Another thing is to make sure you clean the inside of the magazine tube well. Don't add oil to it. Grease is worse. Froglube would be even worse! It will collect debris and can cause malfunctions, particularly the last round feeding from the magazine tube.

The attachment system of the Scalarworks Sync rails is far better than the MI rail. The two hidden captive fasteners look great and prevent the fasteners from walking out. I found the Scalarworks Aimpoint mounts for the AR series to be better than Larue/ADM/Geissele. I’m sure they’re made in lower volume than the big guys.

It should work on the 5 round tubes without cutting it I recall.

It is the same spring, but you can buy a better Wolff produced spring from carriercomp.

I'd agree with M2. Looks like S&B ammo? I'd continue shooting and see if you get a repeat occurrence.

Unless you find one used somewhere you're going to get MAP pricing for Scalarworks. Best you can hope for is free shipping. I prefer the smaller size of the RMR over the T1/T2. I like the auto adjusting reticle and I prefer the view through the RMR over the tube like T1/T2.

I think I only have a Dark Earth one on hand unfortunately. And a couple Black Aimpoint ones.

Thanks! Not bad for my ipotato in the garage! The 50 year old wood bench does help. The NP3 tends to glow in photos. Now if only I could get ahold of the owner.

It is possible, but I found it wasn’t so easy!

It is possible, but I found it wasn’t so easy! m

The amount of gases coming out of the ARGO system aren’t that significant. It is ammunition dependent. I ran some prototype handguards in the past that were heavily vented and didn’t have any real issues. You’ll notice how much powder residue inside your handguards is rather minor.

I had this issue with one FFT disconnector, but not another. I just swapped the disconnectors and the problem was resolved. Filing the trigger as shown in the video lightly will allow some additional pivoting of the disconnector to close the gap and effectively engage the disconnector on the hammer hook. This is is a really important area to make sure it is safely engaging. You really don’t want the hammer slipping off. You’ll end up with hammer down situations or even end up with doubling or accidental discharge.

It won't likely cause you any grief. To give a bit of insight in to what's going on inside that pin, you have the receiver, a small round spring that has a leg that captures the trigger pin. Then there is a flat washer like cover plate that supports the spring, then a snap ring retains that plate in to the receiver. If I had to guess, either the trigger pin wasn't machined perfectly and it allows you to over insert the pin in to the receiver. You can see the groove at the tip and just beneath the head of the pin. These are what give you that tactile feel that the pin is retained in position. A less likely cause is the hidden spring isn't seated right, or is damaged. I wouldn't recommend most try to take it apart since that snap ring can be a real PITA to get out without scratching up the receiver.

Not this year. I went for a few years. It gets old after a while. Meeting reps from Benelli was pretty pointless. Both Italy and USA.

Hope you still don’t clean your M4!

Almost seems like it’s not locking up at all? Are all your parts present?

I’d contact Benelli and see what they think. Any signs of unusual wear at the rear of the receiver? Generally the flame should be gone before the shell is ejected. Trying another brand of ammo would be a good idea.

I’d probably try firing it with gritted teeth first. Chances are behind the bolt carrier, not much would come out. The rear sight is quite heavy too. I bet it weighs more than the scalaroworks/Trijicon optic. Mine of the members here removed the front sight tower. He said he had to cook it off with a torch then refinish the barrel.

Always glad to help. Kind of liking this build without the rear iron sight housing. I’m not sure how much crap would blow out the three holes in the receiver during firing.

I like that stock adapter. Mainly to keep the same cheek weld through the different positions. I’d be curious to see how the recoil tube works. I’d love to see a trigger pack and pistol grip that changed the safety to a short throw selector style. I think I saw an attempt at this before, but it was poorly executed.

Thanks Joel, I don’t think I can access the hyperlinks from my phone. As Joel mentioned, those caps are dried up for the most part. I have a lathe, so it’s actually pretty fast to remove the shroud. Maybe 4 or 5 minutes of machine time taking my time and putting a nice beveled profile on the edges. The actual switch comes apart pretty easily with a pair of snapring pliers. Most of the time I just have the caps Cerakoted in batches. I have tried Alumablack in the past, it works okay, but cosmetically it isn’t that great. The action feels like it has had 10,000 rounds through it. Everything is smooth as butter. I had to order a replacement pin for the rear sight. My punch exploded when installing it and it got sent in to low earth orbit, never to be seen again. I disassembled his pistol grip stock and sent the sling mounting hardware in for plating too. I have two more M4’s being sent in soon. One is a flag edition limited edition and another is a true H2O that is going to have the bevel work done and one of those Asguard Defense rail systems. It should look cool at the least.

A client of mine contracted with me back in October to build an H2O Extreme with a full list of accessories to be plated. We did some experimental things with this build to see if they’d work. Such as plating an IWC M600 backbone light body and a Surefire tailcap that I disassembled and machined to remove the shroud from the cap. The light itself works just fine being plated. Sadly we can’t get the head of the lights apart to plate the exterior. I will likely just have the head Cerakoted in titanium to match. A batch of A&S trigger frames came back plated. All of the markings were concealed during the process. I had several titanium components plated in NP3+ with excellent results. The receiver was beveled to permit faster loading. The profile was matched to the A&S trigger frame and a Freedom Fighter Tactical shell elevator. Build sheet on this one is as follows. It began as one of the phony Cerakote model H2O models. Carriercomp titanium magazine tube carriercomp spec Wolff spring Carriercomp follower Ava Tactical light Mount, mod1 IWC M600 Light Body Surefire M600U light,500 lumens Surefire tailcap, machined by me to remove the shroud Freedom Fighter Tactical handguards stippled by TangoDown Freedom Fighter Tactical Trigger/Disconnectors/Hammer Freedom Fighter Tactical Shell Elevator Freedom Fighter Tactical Wolff spec trigger pack spring kit Dave’s Metal Works Oversized Safety Beveled Loading port OEM collapsible stock Limbsaver buttpad with a modified Noveske adapter plate IWC QD sling mount Blueforcegear padded QD sling in Kryptec with silver nylon hardware Scalarworks Sync for the Trijicon RMR Trijicon RMR RM01, Nickel Boron plated Meprolight Night Sights Since I don’t know how to link from my phone to imagru: https://imgur.com/a/asGZ3