StrangerDanger

This ones mine with a muted finished carriercomp magazine tube. It started out as a 11707. Dark Earth M4 done up with NP3+ components with Cerakoted cosmetics.

Since getting my FFL, I became a Robar Authorized Dealer. Since then, I have sent in several M4's to build what we loosely coined, the H2O Extreme. We start with the base level M4, add all the desired accessories, then come up with a cosmetic build plan for having everything plated in NP3+. Personally, I have never seen rust on an M4. Benelli did a great job making it corrosion resistant. My main goal for building these NP3+ guns is to enhance performance. Nickel with a teflon substrate is incredibly smooth and wears together nicely. If you have components sliding against each other, NP3+ makes everything better with minimal tolerance stacking issues. I've done nickel boron and Cerakote coatings - they all need fitting afterwards to make them function. With NP3+, you can hand cycle the pistons inside the barrel housing and get everything working together. With nickel boron, I had to polish the pistons in a lathe to get them to fit. When certain components are plated, the result is a smoother recoil impulse. Moving parts rubbing against each other do so more smoothly once plated. We tested this with a side by side testing of M4's configured the same, but one was completely NP3+ plated. The plated shotgun feels like a well broken in firearm. Cocking the bolt to the rear even feels and sounds different. Instead of hitting the hammer hump and feeling it drag, it smoothly goes over that "bump" and cocks to the rear. That same feeling is translated in when firing the weapon. Instead of the mechanical clunk as the bolt recoils to the rear, that smoothed cycle goes from beginning to end of the recoil impulse. If you're a fast shooter, and you're putting one or two rounds on target to make sure it stays down, it's a serious improvement over stock. Another benefit is the bolt cycles faster, making it less likely to end up with a hammer down situation from pulling the trigger again as the bolt cycles forward. One of the M4's I built up like this is in Australia now doing invasive species eradication in New Queensland - mainly as a backup weapon to the SCAR17. The wild bores over there can be pretty aggressive. What parts constitute a smoother operating system? This list will be roughly from most important to least important; Hammer, Bolt Carrier, Recoil Plunger, Receiver Extension, Receiver, Breech Latch, Trigger Guard Housing (aluminum model,) magazine follower, magazine tube, Shell Elevator, Hammer Spring cap, Shell Release Lever, Shell Stop, Link, Link pin, Disconnector, Breech Latch Pin, bolt, extractor, extractor pin, cam pin, firing pin, firing pin retainer, Disconnector Plunger, pistons, Trigger, and Trigger Pins. Everything else is cosmetic or for corrosion resistance. Robar doesn't plate the portion of the barrel that is satin chrome plated that enters the receiver. Draw backs of the process. For one, it's expensive. You're looking at 900 dollars with a full host of accessories sent with it. Yes, we've sent the titanium magazine tubes and had them plated as well. They won't warranty the plating on titanium, but it does work. Second, it takes forever. 3 - 4 months is the average. Third, cosmetics. Not everyone wants a shiny shotgun that appears to glow in your hands. Even being a satin matte finish, it really stands out. What we have started doing for clients who do not want a shiny gun is after the plating process is done, we send the parts out to a professional Cerakote company who preps the surface areas and paints them whatever color they want. That way the NP3+ finish is on all the internals, but visually they are the desired color. This naturally adds more to the cost and time it takes to complete the build.

Best I could do right now is 500 since I'm broke at the moment.

It likely has the neutered receiver extension that won't permit the collapsible stock to collapse. The stock itself isn't modified at all. It'll function on a M4 with the appropriate receiver extension. The receiver extensions ions can be replaced, but it isn't an easy job. I've done a bunch of them for clients when the replacement extensions can be found. The last time I looked, HKPro had a few left on his site. As for 922®, you'd need four US made parts to make it compliant; 1. Trigger 2. Disconnector 3. Hammer 4. Handguards 5. Full length magazine tube 6. Magazine follower

The market has moved towards dedicated mount solutions to minimize weight and provide better ergonomics.

Condolences. I'll ask around to see if anyone's interested.

I modify the Limbsaver buttpad to allow the receiver extension to pass inside the buttpad. It's as simple as drilling out the approriate size hole in the buttpad. I modify the Noveske brackets by cutting them. The only parts needed are the ends with the additional mount positions. The single fastener is all that is needed to hold each end in place. Bolting the pad to the two pieces of the Noveske plate keeps everything rigid. Loctite all the things.

Snug is good enough for the stock. The main goal is to not have a gap between the stock and the receiver. It can't unscrew by itself since the trigger pack locks it in place. Make sure thr spring retainer is set all the way to the end of the magazine. This will give you the most amount of spring possible. What I do is I seat mine so it sticks out the end of the magazine tube. Then I install the barrel and squeeze the retainer in to place with the magazine cap.

The trigger pack can be difficult to seat if the stock is misaligned with the receiver even slightly. It can be hard to see sometimes. You certain youre using the same shells? Is it an OEM spring? Who made the magazine tube? Have you disassembled the magazine tube and ensured it is free of debris and oil? Inspect the shell release and make sure it looks fine and the spring is seated properly at the rear.

Unless you're the hulk with retard strength, it's probably fine. Load a few rounds in the tube and eject them by pressing on the shell stop just behind where the follower is and see if it functions right. It's normal for it to be difficult to get the shell to release using this method. Press the shell release lever on a few and see if it ejects a shell on to the lifter. Inspect your trigger pack's shell release lever for damage.

Maybe split it up?

Correct on the fact that springs wear out from compression cycles. The only time they take sets is if they're over compressed. Benelli main springs (and magazine springs) wear out rather fast in my experience. They're only good for about 5,000 rounds. Keep those receiver extensions flushed out and lightly lubed with a thin oil that doesn't bind up in the cold. If you hunt with the Benelli, disassemble the extension once a season or if the shotgun is ever submerged in water. Keep those magazine tubes tubes clean and free of oil as well. The gunk binds up and can cause failure to feed events. When I'm in bear country and I have the M4 along, I sleep with it next to me with the safety off, chamber empty, bolt closed and a shell on the lifter. That way all I have to do is rack the bolt. Carrying it in the field slung, I have the chamber loaded and the safety engaged. Never mess with ghost loading, I've seen way too many failures to feed as a result.

Curious to see the serial ranges. My guess is they had these sitting around in storage. Perhaps not all 2500 were released initially? I can't see them fabricating those horrible neutered receiver extensions for the **** of it. I'm still looking for #666.

Benelliwerks always has the best tools! I use the snap ring method myself. Most of those lock rings aren't in very tight.

Time for something a little different. Put this one together for a guy. Built off of a factory 11791 dark earth model. Threw a whole slew of top shelf parts at it like; OEM Collapsible Stock Noveske/Limbsaver Buttpad IWC MOE QD Sling Mount FFT Trigger, painted black FFT disconnector FFT Wolff trigger pack spring kit FFT OEM Reproduction handguards, black DMW oversized safety, modified spring weight TTI Shell Elevator, painted black TTI stainless bolt knob, painted black GG&G oversized bolt release Carriercomp full length titanium dark earth magazine tube, Wolff Spring and Carriercomp Follower Ava Tactical Mod 1 mount, painted dark earth IWC M600 backbone light body painted dark earth Surefire KE2-A 500 lumen output head, painted dark earth Surefire Scout tailcap, machined to remove the shroud, then painted in dark earth (including the plastic locking ring) Meprolight Night Sights, new front sight nut Scalarworks top rail, painted dark earth OEM aluminum trigger guard, painted dark earth With this build, I swapped a lot of parts out that I have on hand that are NP3+ coated to add to the corrosion resistance, ease of cleaning, and smoothness of operation. While it's not as smooth as a full H2O Extreme build, it's pretty close. Parts that were visible from the exterior were then painted on just the visible areas. Such as the trigger, the shell release button and the shell elevator. Some of the parts swapped out for NP3+ ones; Trigger Pin OEM Hammer Hammer Spring Cap TTI Shell Elevator FFT Disconnector Trigger Bushing Safety Detent Disconnector Plunger Shell release button Breech Latch Pin Recoil Tube Plunger Bolt Extractor Claw Extractor Claw Pin Firing Pin Firing Pin Retainer Carriercomp Magazine Follower Three piece front handguard retainer spring I sent the aluminum trigger guard, the rear sight housing and elevation deck, front sight shroud, the aluminum portion of the collapsible stock, IWC MOE sling mount, the Ava Tactical light mount, IWC backbone light body, Surefire tailcap, Surefire KE2-A light head, rear handguard hanger and the Scalarworks top rail in to be painted in the dark earth color. I'm not a huge fan of the dark earth color, but overall it looks pretty awesome.

Something for the Dark Earth guys. As an authorized Scalarworks dealer, I have a few of these on hand.

Many shells aren't actually the length they say they are. I'd compare them to another brand and see if that brand fits. You can can also make sure your spring retainer is extended as far out as possible. Let the magazine cap press the spring retainer in as far as it needs to go. Avoid spring trimming like the plague. You'll never cut enough off to make that shell fit.

If there is no gap, you're good to go.

Does it fire with the gap you have? can you post a picture of how much gap is present? the way to fix it would be to file the load bearing edges or the hand guards - not just the ends of them. This is usually the inner lip that the handguard retainers seat against. You want the barrel ring ring fully seated against the receiver, not just floating out there on the end of the plastic hand guards.

Not that I'm aware of. That disconnector pin is pretty small to begin with. They don't seem to like roll pins, but will sometimes do them. I think it comes down to who does the processing.

On the burnt bronze, it has a Carriercomp bolt handle and a DMW oversized safety. I took her out all weekend on a camping trip in the Mojave. Really liking the new rail for the RMR.