StrangerDanger

Not sure if it is the tension from the clamp squeezing the cap or if it is the sling mounted retention device Joel developed, but I could not unscrew the p3x light body from the tail cap. I had it the mount fully on the tail cap. The p2x and p3x do not unscrew from the head light the Scout lights do.

I spent some time with several Surefire lights this evening to try to get a feel for what the best lighting solution for the M4 would be when combined with the AVA Tactical mount. I drug out a slew of weapon lights to compare the beam quality and probably pissed off my neighbors; Surefire Aviator -- 60 Lumen Surefire LX2 -- 200 Lumen Surefire X300 -- 115 Lumen Surefire ED2 -- 150 Lumen Surefire X400 -- 170 Lumen Surefire X300 Ultra -- 500 Lumen Surefire Scout M600C -- 200 Lumen Surefire Scout M600U -- 500 Lumen Surefire M3LT -- 800 Lumen Surefire P2X Fury -- 500 Lumen Surefire P3X Fury -- 1000 Lumen *Note: For testing purposes, fresh batteries were installed in each light. I recently inherited a P3X and P2X. So I figured I'd give them a try at mounting them to the M4. Obviously 500 or 1000 lumens sounds pretty awesome for a shotgun compared to where I was with my Surefire Scout M600C at 200 lumens. With the assistance of Joel, I mounted up the P3X Fury which is a 3 cell light. The bezel made contact with the barrel, but it fit fairly well. Barrel shadowing was pretty extreme; but the sight picture was unobstructed. First thing I noted was the weight of the P3X. It comes in at about 7.75 ounces. This is nearly double the weight of a Surefire Scout light. I figured I would live with it if the performance was superior. One thing I noted on the P3X installation that I didn't like was the mounting made it impossible to unscrew the light from the tail cap assembly to swap batteries. So you'd have to take the torx bits out to loosen the light in order to change batteries. This is a fail if you're using the weapon for any kind of professional work. Another thing I noted on the P3X was how fast the lumens started tapering off after several minutes of run time. After screwing around with the setups for a few hours, I took the weapons outside to test the light throw. Even with brand new batteries, I could barely tell the P3X was any brighter than the P2X or the Surefire Scout M600U. It was pretty disappointing honestly. I expected double the output of the 500 lumen units. Given the difficulties in changing batteries on the P2X and P3X, additional weight and relatively poor performance; I have to go with the M600U as the weapon light of choice for the Benelli M4. Granted, you'll need to secure a different body such as the E1L Outdoorsman and a unshrouded tailcap button. So naturally this comes at a higher cost. A M600U is typically around 300 dollars. Sourcing the additional parts may add another 50 - 80 dollars. Add the cost of the mount itself, and you have a fairly expensive package. Where as if you opt for a P2X, they retail for around 150 dollars. The P3X is about 250 dollars. Comparing the Scout M600U to the older model M600C. The difference was what you would expect from jumping from 200 lumens to 500 lumens. I would estimate that it was roughly double the brightness.

Looks great. I didn't even notice it. You've got a good build going.

Watching the tear down of the m2 pack has shown me how many refinements were made in the m4. Example, the m4 did away with that washer that retains the breech latch. I prefer the snap ring over the wire pin on the trigger bushing. I've heard many M2 owners upgrade the pack to the snap ring from the m4.

Yep. That's normal too. If you look at the trigger group, you'll see how the shell release interfaces with the shell stop. You can dry fit the OEM unit to see how they interact. Also, it is normal for the bottom of the GG&G pad to rub on the receiver when depressed. If you're concerned about the wear, some have used tape on the back of the pad.

Derp. yep. That's the issue. Everything else is as it should be.

Good video!

You're right. It seems the post is bent or it was pressed into the bracket incorrectly. Any chance you could pull it out and take a picture of it side by side with the factory unit?

Seems the M4 is a stronger design. Since the fasteners aren't being held by aluminum threads. The M4's screw into the steel base of the LPA housing.

Definitely not right. Are you sure the pad is seated fully against the post?

On the M2, the screws go in thru the top? On the M4 they go in from inside the receiver and have a little lock washer on each fastener. I set set up a couple divider boxes with spare parts for the M4. Mainly pins, springs and small parts. The kit is lacking some important pieces like gas pistons due to the ridiculous cost.

The screw slot? What kind of screw drivers are you using? The fixed blade Brownells set had a perfect size for this screw. Blade width and blade diameter are perfect. I recall it wasn't as hard as I was expecting to get them out. I figured they were locktited in place and providing only a flat head for torque was scary. On mine, those concaved shaped tips cracked off during disassembly. No idea why.

The screws to the rear sight are expensive. I had to buy a set from Numrich since the tips broke on mine during the rear sight removal. No idea why they broke. They were still usable, but I opted to replace them anyway. I believe Brownells carries the screws now too.

Interesting report. I had tried to buy one of these stocks last year to simply compare it to my OEM stock. It sat on backorder for about 8 months until Promag sent me a letter saying FOAD and cancelled my order. Another company deserving lung butter only.

The fact that they're unwilling to give one out for review says a lot about the product -- Particularly just a short term loan. I've reviewed the installation guide a few times, and have found it to be overly complicated. It will require tools to disassemble your weapon. You will be adding several pounds of unnecessary weight.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=404701686 i have two of them that are set up the same. This is the only way I have found the M80's to be effective for mounting a light. Figure the mount alone is 50 bucks. M80's are 175 on a good day.

No guilt here. I gave him some pretty awesome choices. Wish I had somewhere to go rent/utility free. Email sent...

My 5 year old daughter was close with him. That was one of the hardest conversations I've ever had. I was also his boss for ten years and I had to terminate him a week before he punched out. He had calenders where he would line out each day one by one and write a number in each day. I realized it was how many days he had been sober. It was over 3000. The day I fired him was the last line. I dont blame lame myself for the termination. I feel his issues caused the termination and led him to where he was. I offered him a place to stay rent/utility free until he got in his feet. He figured a Hemingway Solution was easier though.

Thanks M2. No note was a little troubling in our case. I find myself endlessly searching belongings looking for one. I even looked down the barrels of the weapons to see if there was something shoved in there. He he did keep his dark sense of humor until the end. He was wearing a shirt that said, "I shaved my balls for this?"I didn't notice it due to his position upon discovery, but when forensics rolled him over, we had to laugh.

Thanks. It's been a rough couple weeks since it was a suicide. With no next of kin, I've taken it upon myself to handle his arrangements and take care of his weapons and belongings as best as possible.

I'd get in on a Fury specific clamp. I have a PX3 1000 lumen monster on one of the m4's. I haven't fired it yet though...

Some AVA Tactical love. Recently picked up two new Benelli M4's, top and bottom from a friend who passed away. As you can see, he had great tastes in weapons.

Needs an AVA Tactical Light Mount.

Sounds like you haven't gotten the snap ring to actually engage into those cuts along the side of the trigger bushing pin. If you think of the snap ring as a horse shoe shape, with the open end being the top, or 12 o'clock. The notches of the TPGS should be at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position. Here is another unrelated tip for installing the carrier dog or bolt latch's pin and spring. You can remove the pin and spring when the unit is assembled by compressing the spring and pin. It will then disengage from the bolt latch and pull it away from the assembly. This will help reduce the number of parts you will be trying to wrangle while reassembling the trigger group.

FFT makes a decent offering. Carriercomp releases them in batches every few years.