Sigma05

That’s a great setup. Only thing I would change is the mount for a Spuhr Mount. One because it’s much lower, and second because it’s not a cantilever Mount. Does the picatinny rail have any inclination (MOA)?

I did for many years before it was a thing. One of my shooting buddies is the creator and organizer of the King of Two Miles. What you want to know?

I though I recognized the Agency symbol on bolt release.

Fond this pic on the Scalarworks page. Interesting accessories. Anyone can identify them all? Charging handle. Bolt release. Handguard.

I was so tempted to run an MRO on mine, but since I had a Hensoldt RSA sitting around, I went with that.

? love karma posts like this.

I run the IWC front and rear sling points that StrangerDanger mentioned. The difference is that I run a Magpul padded MS1 sling, but I run it exactly the same way he does with the rear attachment on the right side.

I agree completely with you and concur. I was just curious if he had some insight we didn’t.

Have you seen this happen? I ask because I have an 870 with the same setup and thousands of rounds through it. The 870 doesn’t absorb some of the recoil like semi autos do. I also have a .50 cal bolt gun with a similar mount and has also not had any issues. I haven’t used mine that much but there are plenty out there fielded in combat with quite a few rounds through them, and no mount failures.

Nice build. Need a full pic of the shotgun. All the pics are of close ups. You don’t get a feel for the complete build. I second the IWC light mount. Works great.

It was the GG&G one but since then I put a Noveske one in the rear of the stock on the opposite side.

I also run the Magpul MS1. I pretty much run it on all my firearms.

I’m also running this one, but I didn’t get it from Botach since they have the worst customer service. The original shape of the factory one is that way because it’s designed also as a disassembly tool. That’s why I chose this one, because it retains the same functions.

It was a while back. Will see if I have a spare in tool box and get back to you.

Got one at Lowe’s hardware store.

So with the A&S trigger guard you didn’t need to do any modding or fitting for the autolifter to work? Just plug and play?

I’m definitely down for one!

Damn! That’s hard to believe considering they’ve been the standard of the industry.

They took it down from their web page. Most likely they got tired of being asked when it was coming out.

Factory screws are M4-0.7-18mm. You would need to get ones that add as much as the spacer you may need. The factory ones are quite long and would be enough if you are doing a slight washer stack.

I’m away from the shop. After you remove screws (113) you would make some spacers that go in the screws, between cheek pad (111) and stock (124). You could also stack washers if you want a cheap solution.

I’ve been racking my mind to figure out a way to raise the cheek pad on the M4 collapsible stock. The Hensoldt red dot I run is high and I don’t get a good cheek weld. I have to “hunt” for the dot every time since I don’t have a consistent cheek weld. I did a search and the only thing I have found is people adding adhesive pads on top of the stock. I dissembled mine and noticed that you could make some risers. I also noticed that the third screw had a concave recess, so that spacer would have to have a male/female extension made. Should be a simple non-permanent mod. Anyone done something similar? Any other feedback on different solutions. Would like to see what others have done before venturing into this.

It’s an ammo issue. Some say they are 2-3/4 but they are a bit long. I had the same issue with a specific brand. Try another brand and compare them side by side. You'll see that one is longer.

Pics!!!!

Thanks Steve.