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M4 Magazine Extension, comparison


Renault

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Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of the different options i have?

 

So far i have read the thread about Socomguy's tubes, and they look to be high quality, then i recently saw the thread about the TacStar extension tubes...

 

there is quite a price difference, although if there was no price difference i would go with the entire tube (from socomguy)...being that i think it looks better... but also about 100+ dollars more expensive. Is there a reason why the TacStar extension tubes are so cheap, possibly low quality, or am i being to pessimistic about things that cost less?

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Just get a full tube.

 

If you don't get a full tube now, you will forever want one, and will likely end up buying twice and purchasing one later.

 

If you buy a full tube, you will never want a +2. The grass is only greener on one side of the fence when it comes to full length tubes.

 

Tacstar tubes, in my experience, have been averagely machined tubes that do not match any finish I've ever seen. I haven't looked at them in years, perhaps they have improved their game ... this is not to say that they will not work, but they wouldn't be the first place I looked for quality.

 

But seriously, just get a full length tube.

 

If you're a tightwad, buy a Daves metal works full length tube. They will work, and are affordable.

 

If you want the best for the best shotgun available, get a CarrierComp or SOCOMguy tube. They are worth it, ask anyone who has one.

 

Buy once cry once.

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I agree with Duggan that a full-length tube would be preferable, and I've seen what appears to me to be some fantastic machining by carriercomp and socomguy. The only reason that I am settling for a +2 tube is because I'm just not comfortable taking a heating gun to my receiver, and a +2 tube will accomplish exactly the same thing without the hassle. For me, that's good enough. For others, it's not and I respect that. To each his own.

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I agree with Duggan that a full-length tube would be preferable, and I've seen what appears to me to be some fantastic machining by carriercomp and socomguy. The only reason that I am settling for a +2 tube is because I'm just not comfortable taking a heating gun to my receiver, and a +2 tube will accomplish exactly the same thing without the hassle. For me, that's good enough. For others, it's not and I respect that. To each his own.

 

Do I have to get Bill Nye on your as-s and tell you how silly that is?

 

nye.gif

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It's gonna be more material for a one piece tube then a +2 and hence usually more cost. I would get a Carriercomp or Socom tube over a Tacstar for quality reasons and Duggan stated previously.If you have some extra $ to burn you might be able to find a oem +2 tube on gunbroker if you specifically want Benelli oem parts. Just remember Benelli parts are always going to be more expensive then a Remington or Mossberg.

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It's gonna be more material for a one piece tube then a +2 and hence usually more cost. I would get a Carriercomp or Socom tube over a Tacstar for quality reasons and Duggan stated previously.If you have some extra $ to burn you might be able to find a oem +2 tube on gunbroker if you specifically want Benelli oem parts. Just remember Benelli parts are always going to be more expensive then a Remington or Mossberg.

 

i work at a school, i don't have extra money to burn... but instead i will save up and just buy from socomguy, i'd rather go with quality and have the patience to wait for it. It's not like i am going to die if i don't have +2 on my M4 right now, i hope

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  • 3 weeks later...
another question, has anyone compared the feel of the weight difference of the titanium carriercomp tubes, and the steel ones like socomguy's?

 

is it noticeable or desirable to have a lighter magazine tube?

 

It is supposedly about half the weight.

 

What those weights are, I don't know.

 

Message "Cleefurd" and he will tell you.

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Guest cleefurd

That's close. (10.6 vs 5.5 on our scale) compared to the OEM set-up with its aluminum front half. The weight savings over a FULL length steel tube is even greater according to customers who have relayed the weight of their steel FL tube. So at over a 1/3 of a pound (FL-steel vs FL-Ti), it is noteworthy.

Can even the most feeble warrior carry an extra 1/3 lb??... probably so. Would cutting the weight of every component on your check-list by 50% add up? We'll let you do the math. That's why the receiver is aluminum and not steel.

For weight savings the Benelli M1S90 used aluminum mag tubes successfully, they (M1 aluminum variants) held up well since its wall thickness was near double the M4's, but the M4's thin nominal wall thickness can only be well served by steel OR Titanium. The titanium pares it back in weight without being prone to dents (like a comparable aluminum version) , and is more corrosion resistant than both aluminum or steel. Win-win.

Edited by cleefurd
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OK...so I'm torn on this issue. I gave up on a +2 Benelli made tube, and am looking at both SOCOMguy and CarrierComp full length tubes. At a high level, both seem like great products. The half pound weight savings seems almost negligible for me at least since I'm not carrying this thing around all of the time. So why one over the other?

 

From what I have read, both are able to match the OEM black finish very well. Both are US made, and stamped to avoid legal issues. So the questions about differences seem to be:

 

Titanium vs. Steel?

Cerakote vs. Steel finish?

$189 w/ extended spring vs. $195 w/o spring?

 

What am I missing here? My concern with the Cerakote is that with it being ceramic based, could it chip or flake if dropped. Is that a true assumption...I don't know, but I assume it is similar to ceramic based automotive solutions. I am assuming the steel finish would simply scratch like the barrel would. Other things I am missing here? Anybody not happy with their decision to go with one of these or wish they had gotten the other and why?

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OK...so I'm torn on this issue. I gave up on a +2 Benelli made tube, and am looking at both SOCOMguy and CarrierComp full length tubes. At a high level, both seem like great products. The half pound weight savings seems almost negligible for me at least since I'm not carrying this thing around all of the time. So why one over the other?

 

From what I have read, both are able to match the OEM black finish very well. Both are US made, and stamped to avoid legal issues. So the questions about differences seem to be:

 

Titanium vs. Steel?

Cerakote vs. Steel finish?

$189 w/ extended spring vs. $195 w/o spring?

 

What am I missing here? My concern with the Cerakote is that with it being ceramic based, could it chip or flake if dropped. Is that a true assumption...I don't know, but I assume it is similar to ceramic based automotive solutions. I am assuming the steel finish would simply scratch like the barrel would. Other things I am missing here? Anybody not happy with their decision to go with one of these or wish they had gotten the other and why?

 

Either one will serve you fine.

 

As far as which to get ... that's up to you. Go back up to your comparison list and find out which one is a better product for you.

 

Edit - I missed your question about cerakote. Cerakote is one of the best coatings in the industry. It is extremely durable, you would be hard pressed to damage the finish unintentionally. Don't take my word for it, google up some info on it ... here is the manufacturers page:

 

http://www.nicindustries.com/firearm_coatings.php

Edited by Duggan
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Guest cleefurd
OK...

Titanium vs. Steel?

Cerakote vs. Steel finish?

$189 w/ extended spring vs. $195 w/o spring?

 

My concern with the Cerakote is that with it being ceramic based, could it chip or flake if dropped. Is that a true assumption...I don't know, but I assume it is similar to ceramic based automotive solutions. I am assuming the steel finish would simply scratch like the barrel would.

 

Fair question.

 

In short; Cerakote WON'T EVER flake, peel or chip if properly applied. Like any finish however, (parkerizing or otherwise), it can be scratched, although individuals with exposure to both will typically agree that parkerizing scratches more easily.

Cerakote, like most high end coatings, will only chip or peel if applied too thick on a non-etched surface. We abrade the surface with aluminum oxide (low pressure blast), followed by rotary scuff to dis-lodge any im-bedded AO particles, degrease and apply the 2 part oven cured coating. We used KG for 8 or 9 years, but this stuff (Cerakote) is better hands down, and most folks swear by even the cheaper KG coating for good reason, if it had the mechanical properties of spray paint (chip and peel as you fear), they'd use spray paint at a fraction of the cost. The ceramic header coatings use higher ratios of ceramic for its heat resistant properties, with ceramic "flakes". Cerakote's use of microscopic ceramic fibers is for paint integrity, heat, and as a binder for the built in proprietary friction reducers. Check out their bend tests (independent labs) and the fear of flaking is ammended. Here is what we guarantee about our finish;

 

"...Additionally we will repair any finish defects that result in fading or peeling caused by poor application at time of manufacture, this assurance does not cover normal wear and tear such as dings, gouges, or scrapes that would otherwise marr any conventional finish." (i.e. parkerizing)

 

Remember parkerizing is just rust, but we can't rust titanium so we faithfully matched the rest of the gun with the best firearms coating, simulating OEM color, that money could buy.

 

No stone left unturned, no consideration overlooked. We take pride in knowing that every concern the customer may have, was met head on during R&D, in an effort to have no regrets.

 

Both versions (ti and steel) are acceptible. We chose titanium for all its advantages, unlike many manufacturers who choose it for its tendency to fetch extraordinary MSRP's. From our price you'll note, if we made a comparable steel version, it would retail for much much less.

Edited by cleefurd
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Guest cleefurd
EXTREMELY happy with the Ti tube and very high quality spring!!!

 

Kip - Tell 'em why you need the longer spring...

 

During training (USMC 1983-2005) I have personally seen a repeatable scenario where shooting straight-down from balcony/roof-top hides would cause FTF. We surmised this was due to inertia of gun going UP (recoil) while the last or next to last round (when the spring force it at its weakest) aided by gravity would actually wind up heading away from the elevator, giving the bolt (which is hampered by gravity on its rearward trek, and returning to battery faster with the aid of gravity) a sufficiently faster cycle time that the next cartridge fails to make it's way back to the elevator in time to be delivered to the chamber.

 

6-1/2 years ago our fix was to replace or stretch out the spring (losing battle). There's now a ready made remedy, while not always essential, neither are rain grooves on a tire, but nice to know they're there when clouds form.

Edited by cleefurd
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During training (USMC 1983-2005) I have personally seen a repeatable scenario where shooting straight-down from balcony/roof-top hides would cause FTF. We surmised this was due to inertia of gun going UP (recoil) while the last or next to last round (when the spring force it at its weakest) aided by gravity would actually wind up heading away from the elevator, giving the bolt (which is hampered by gravity on its rearward trek, and returning to battery faster with the aid of gravity) a sufficiently faster cycle time that the next cartridge fails to make it's way back to the elevator in time to be delivered to the chamber.

 

6-1/2 years ago our fix was to replace or stretch out the spring (losing battle). There's now a ready made remedy, while not always essential, neither are rain grooves on a tire, but nice to know they're there when clouds form.

 

 

Wow. I never even tested my M4 shooting DOWN. All I know is I got the same problems when using HEAVY loads (3" #4 buck) and the stock civi M4 spring.

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