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Benelli M4 -- Refinish Time!


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False lighting sucks. The receivers look nothing like these pictures in person. Function test of the AR seems good to go. I have to tweak the buffer to allow the unit to retract further back about a quarter inch. Currently it can't pull back far enough to lock the bolt back. I'm just going to cut the tip of the rubber bumper off to give it the clearance needed.

 

I like how the black lacquer came out on the receiver markings. It was a PITA to do though.

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3M has a polyurethene protectective tape film perfect for that type of application. You would take a section trim it to sit flat on the receiver or even on the back of the oversized button if it is flat and flush.

 

Stuff isn't cheap to buy in a roll and you only need a little piece...

 

[TABLE=width: 100%]

[TR]

[TD=class: subhead1, colspan: 3]POLYURETHANE:

Long-lasting surface protection. Conformable.

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 110]3M 8561[/TD]

[TD=width: 5][/TD]

[TD=class: default]Surface protection tape for industrial use.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 110]3M 8672[/TD]

[TD=width: 5][/TD]

[TD=class: default]Transparent general purpose outdoor grade protective tape.[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

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I tried using the industrial strength clear polyester "helicopter" tape, I didn't like the appearance.

The bolt release button is not flush on the backside, that's why I chose the shrink tubing, which also is durable to cleaning solvents / lubricants that will get on the receiver with normal use.

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Just spent 8 hours assembling my full sized Noveske .223 and my LMT MRP Piston operated .223. Got to use my Geisselle reaction rod extensively along with the new Seekonk torque wrenches. The reaction rod was a lot more useful than I expected. Not just for torquing barrels and flash hiders. Holding the upper in place, it allowed me to index the upper so I could work on the sides or bottom. You just slide the upper off the star chamber adapter and index it to where you want, and slide it back on.

 

The Seekonk dial torque wrenches are awesome. The larger foot pound unit I have has a memory needle, so you know exactly what the max torque you reached. I'm going to throw my old clicker torque wrench down the street.

 

The Magnabit set from Brownells sped things along. Particularly the ratcheting driver. The only issue with the sets is the fact that it is misleading about the sets. Even the large super duper set is missing bit sets. I've created what I labeled, The Imperial Wizard Set™ by adding various bit sets together. It now spans three of those 144 bit blocks.

 

I didn't expect any fitting issues. I guess it is to be expected on tight tolerance parts. Since I was using 1200 grit sand paper, I only polished the pistons on the ridges. Five minutes by hand, I just spun the pistons in a sheet of the paper. It did not remove the nickel boron.

 

On the bolt carriers of the AR15's, you can certainly tell they tightened up. Manually cycling them wears the parts together. It just takes a while.

 

I'm hoping to take them out shooting on Monday to see how they perform.

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Very impressive - as always!

 

Would love to know the contents of the The Imperial Wizard Set™ if you ever got the time to write it up. I have the master set, but agree that it could still use some things.

 

Same here, would love to see a write up.

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I'll try to write something up soon. I know I raided Walmart and bought a bunch of Black and Decker bits that fit. I'm still waiting for the third base block to show up so I can spread out a little more. I did make rows on one block for all the flat head drivers.

 

I would like to stamp the block so I can look down and grab the correct bit. I think I just need some stamp punches. I might get creative and color fill the stampings afterwards.

 

Here are some pictures of the other rifles I put together.

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