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Any opinions on Midwest Industries M4 MLOK Rail


chris1280

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I'm not sure if it's new or not but Midwest Industries M4 mlok rail popped up in my IG feed. I think aesthetically it looks good, it's priced right and the weight difference between that rail and my current setup, SBS using the FFT foregrips and Impact weapons light mount is 2.6 ounces which for me is doable for me. Does anyone own this rail and can share their opinions on it? Here is the pic from Midwest Industries IG page.

MIRail.jpg

Edited by chris1280
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4 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:

Any info on how it attaches and detaches? Do you need to remove your mounted items in order to get it off of the barrel assembly? Weight specs?

Just pulled up the info on their site. Doesn't appear to have any installation instructions. https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/product-p/mi-benm4-hg.htm

 

  • Compatible with Benelli M4 and clones
  • M-LOK® compatible
  • Constructed from Type 3 Hard Coat Anodized 6061 Aluminum for a lifetime of service
  • 5-slot polymer M-LOK® rail included
  • Fully dehorned and deburred
  • 12” overall length
  • 8.7 oz installed weight
  • 100% Made in the USA with a lifetime warranty
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I placed an order for it last night. It looks good to me and the extra 3 ounces are negligible but I'm going to give Midwest Ind. a call on Tuesday when they reopen to inquire about how exposed the pistons are and how it attaches and detaches and if I need to remove any mounted items in order to get it off of the barrel assembly. These answers will determine if it will be a deal breaker for me and I'll return it if need be. If anyone can think of any other questions that will be great.

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19 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

The pistons shouldn’t be an issue. They don’t move much or get crazy with the amount of gas blown out of the Argo system.  
 

Hopefully it isn’t another set screw job. 

Gas blowback isn't the issue, but exposing the pistons on a COMBAT shotgun to the elements and impacts doesn't seem like a very good idea to me. The pistons seem to be pretty sturdy, but it's basically what the entire operating system relys on afterall.

Not that my M4 has seen or ever will see any combat, but making them prone to impacts and unnecessary wear just seems like a bad idea.

Probably not a big deal for home defence or competition use, but for "field" applications such as LE or hunting, I think it's less than ideal.

Surely there's a reason why Benelli designed the OEM forend to cover the pistons too?

Since almost every aftermarket forend exposes the pistons in some way, I guess there's a possibility I'm just beeing silly and my criticism is completely unwarranted.

But I suspect the manufacturers are cutting corners to get them on the shelves as fast as possible. Just focusing on making it look cool, cause they know that sells. I mean some of the aftermarket forends are just plain lazy! Cool sure, but lazy nonetheless!

This might not be as big of a problem as I make it out to be, but I still think it's less than perfect. And that bothers me, cause it can be! This one sure is getting close though IMO!

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Q:

 
I want to inquire about the Benelli M4 handguard. -Will it install/remove without tools? -Will it fit Entry model/SBS/14" barrel M4's? Thank-you!

 

 

A: the design of the M4 doesnt make it easy to have the hand guard install or remove without having to remove some screws on the hand guard. 

best regards 
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- UPDATE

I received the rail earlier today. It was unboxed and inspected. First impressions was that it felt really light in weight. The rail looked good, there were no sharp edges or machining/finishing issues. I unloaded my M4, disassembled it and proceeded to follow the instructions.

The instructions are very basic but I had no problems following them other than having one question. I called Midwest Ind. and spoke with Sean (Ext. 226). I felt that they left out one step that might have the end user questioning the instructions. I would've changed step #5 to read unscrew the 4 mid collar screws and the 2 rear collar screws and remove both the mid and rear collars. Again, it was easy to figure out but it would've saved me a call.  The installation required a torx and socket key which was included. Once I got everything lined up and tightened down it felt rock solid. I checked for any flexing of the rail and it didn't move. At this point I backed out the screws, hit them with a dab of blue locktite, torqued them to 20in lbs and gave them some faint witness marks.

Now that it was installed, I took a few minutes to do some presentations from both the low and high ready just to get a good feel for it. I have average sized hands and it didn't feel to fat or bulky so this was a plus. I then added some Magpul rail covers that I had laying around and it felt even better with the texturing. Again, it didn't feel bulky with the rail covers. I threw on a modlite but have to wait for the mod button mlok adapter to come in.

My concerns about the pistons being exposed were put to bed. Most of the pistons are housed inside the rail. In regards to disassembly/reassembly, nothing will be as fast as removing the mag cap and popping off the forearm panels but I realized that I don't normally disassemble often so the necessary bits will be added to my range bag just in case. To be honest, I probably have about 400ish rounds through this entry barrel and I've yet to clean it. It just gets some lube from time to time. Over the next few range trips, I'll monitor if there's any issue with fit or function, If the screws start to walk and just overall the performance. First impressions for me are positive and it will stay on my M4 unless something changes. Attached are some pics. These are just my opinions so hopefully this helps some. I'm off to the range :)

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Edited by chris1280
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@Unobtanium, that is confirmed the screws will need to be loosened or removed to strip it. I'll be giving that a go tomorrow after work. I'll advise if the screws need to completely come out or just be loosened.

As far as the range session goes...

I just went to the local indoor range due to time constraints. I fired a total of 12 LEB127RS slugs, 19 LE132/5 LE133 00 buck and 43 Black aces 00 buck rounds. There were no malfunctions to report. I maintained my zero and my patterns were on par. So far all is good with this rail.

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4 hours ago, chris1280 said:

@Unobtanium, that is confirmed the screws will need to be loosened or removed to strip it. I'll be giving that a go tomorrow after work. I'll advise if the screws need to completely come out or just be loosened.

As far as the range session goes...

I just went to the local indoor range due to time constraints. I fired a total of 12 LEB127RS slugs, 19 LE132/5 LE133 00 buck and 43 Black aces 00 buck rounds. There were no malfunctions to report. I maintained my zero and my patterns were on par. So far all is good with this rail.

Thats frustrating. It is a great looking rail minus that. I will stick with my IWC mount and tango oem stippled handguards due to this.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick question...

Are there any other light mounting options for the M4 that will place the light closer to or flush with the muzzle?

I've only seen this new M.I. M4 MLOK Rail, but nothing else. I'm currently running an Agency Arms Rail to mount the light but the casted shadow is not cool. My I.W.C. Scout Mount casts similar. 

The M.I. rail looks VERY nice, but the brass set screws are a detractor...

Thanks!

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2 minutes ago, AIRB0RNE6176 said:

Quick question...

Are there any other light mounting options for the M4 that will place the light closer to or flush with the muzzle?

I've only seen this new M.I. M4 MLOK Rail, but nothing else. I'm currently running an Agency Arms Rail to mount the light but the casted shadow is not cool. My I.W.C. Scout Mount casts similar. 

The M.I. rail looks VERY nice, but the brass set screws are a detractor...

Thanks!

I am seeing on other forums that people are simply not using the brass set screws. I am of the opinion that maybe the set screws are only for if you're going to mount laser, etc. and need rock-solid zero retention.

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OK, thanks for the info.

It would be great to know how sturdy it would be without them, because the overall length of this rail would help with light mounting/shadow casting.

It would have to be as solid as the Agency Arms or Briley rail for me to get onboard with it if I were to switch over (w/o set screws).

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1 hour ago, AIRB0RNE6176 said:

OK, thanks for the info.

It would be great to know how sturdy it would be without them, because the overall length of this rail would help with light mounting/shadow casting.

It would have to be as solid as the Agency Arms or Briley rail for me to get onboard with it if I were to switch over (w/o set screws).

Multiple people have said "it's rock solid", but I presume the design of it lends well to that. I'd say it's likely to be as stable as the OEM since it is retained identically sans sets.

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