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Mostly done . I have a Vickers sling on order and may make a few more changes but have a pic of both sides

Perhaps no one answered because the forum and the internet is peppered with this type of information. Not trying to be mean, just pointing out a possible "why". Benelli's have thin barrels. That is a small part of why in general that they are lighter than much of the competition. I mention this because some models I know can't be cut down and re-threaded. However, since there is some choke material in there, a company like Briley maybe could do it. Remember that the choke is at the end of the barrel (muzzle), as such it is the last thing that touches the projectile(s) so get a skilled 'smith to do it. As Evolution mentioned, having screw-in chokes gives more versatility. Shotguns for centuries have had just a fixed choke with one size/type restriction. I think it was the 1960's where it was introduced in a production shotgun. If memory serves, it was a Winchester pump that kind of kicked it off. So, it is safe to say that people all over the world fed their families before screw-in chokes took over. Back then, if for some reason you needed a wider capability than your existing choke offered, you'd buy a whole barrel. That obviously makes it tough to take another option in the field with you while hunting. If I could only have a single choke for all my hunting needs, it would be "Improved Modified". Personally, I don't mind a "tactical" (I hate that over-used word) shotgun having a fixed choke as the ranges are purposely intended to be shorter range (than hunting shotguns, which are already very short range compared to rifles). That said, I would not ever buy a shotgun for hunting without them. There were also several attempts to make adjustable chokes such as the Poly-Choke. They worked OK, but never as well as individual choke. As mentioned above, different loads will behave differently through the exact same choke. Not as much as once believed, but barrel length plays a part in all that too. The old-time logic was a longer barrel gave you a tighter pattern and higher velocity. That may have been true based on my experience with blackpowder but with modern propellants, the powder burn is mostly over well before the end of the barrel of most shotguns. Also, note that though it may seem counterintuitive, going too tight of a choke can actually open up your pattern as your pellets can deform. Also, when using steel shot, there is a maximum restriction that it can be shot through. I think generally it is Modified though it does vary. Always check before shooting steel loads. For me, longer or shorter barrels are more for the swing characteristics. I've had my Super Black Eagle since 1995. At the time, I had a shotgun for hunting one thing (such as rising birds), and another for skeet, another for crossing birds, and another for deer hunting with slugs. Once I discovered the SBE, it was an eye opener. I slowly sold off all the different 12 gauge shotguns I didn't need anymore since I could do it all with that one gun. However, as time went on, it became obvious that the 28" barrel on an already long 3.5" receiver really was clumsy in the woods and also while turkey hunting. So, my quest started for shorter barrels. By then, I couldn't find any for the original SBE1, so I bought SBE2 barrels and also a slug barrel. Then, later I found the low rib original SBE type. I haven't shot several of the SBE2 barrels, but the SBE barrels I have shot, I can take the same choke from one barrel, put it in another barrel and the point of aim moves slightly, and groups change a marginal amount. It isn't noticeable in the field, but is evident on a patterning board. There is a TON of information out on the web too about how the choke restrictions change the pattern, generalized tables with actual measurements of how much restriction each choke has, what the intended range for each is, etc. This is one of many, but looked decent: https://chokefortrap.com/choke-tube-chart/ One last question. Are you going to do any hunting with this firearm, or is it only for defense? If the latter, how big of an area will you be defending (i.e. the size of the house/room)? I ask because you said you were interested in reaching out. In a typical house you won't need the range, but I understand the desire to load heavier loads like double or triple buck. I don't use a shotgun any more for home defense, but when I did, I had it loaded like this: Chamber: 000 buck. Magazine tube: slug, 000, slug, 000, slug, 000... My logic was the buck shot for a little spread and a little more efficiency for a target in the open. But, still had every other shot a slug in case they have heavy clothing or if they were behind a sheetrock wall.

Big shout out to StrangerDanger for finally bringing my M4 to life after almost a year in the safe and making it functioning how it's meant to be!

The length of pull on that one position C-stock sucks for small folks. Couldn't shot the thing comfortably.

The light is a SureFire Dual Fuel Scout Light Pro .It comes with its own mount SureFire Low-Profile Mount (LPM) greatly enhances versatility, allowing the user to mount the Dual Fuel Scout Light Pro in the optimal position on any MIL-STD-1913 or M-LOK rail

No. I have an M4 SBS and am going to buy another one (because why not? Also, I'd like a "spare"...). I like everything I've read and heard about the 1301, but I have zero desire to invest in one.

I finally got my Dead Air Sandman-L and got this sweet rig 100% now. Bighorn Arms TL3 Long Action Proof Research 26” Barrel in 300 PRC Magpul Pro 700L Chassis TriggerTech Black Diamond Trigger Trijicon AccuPower 4.5-30X56 Geissele Super Precision Mount MDT 338 Lapua Mag B&T Mono-pod Accu Tac Bi-Pod

It is extremely robust. https://www.aridusindustries.com/product-category/beretta1301/ The 1301 will cycle all things well, except LL, and it comes closer to cycling those than the M4, from what I have HEARD. I would believe it. That said, if you have a shell that will not quiiiettttte cycle your M4, but does the 1301, I'd say the margin is too slim to count on it, anyways. My test for cycling/function is to hold the weapon like a big pistol without locking my arm, and run it. If it will cycle through the mag and lock back, I consider it G2G. The 1301 is a great shotgun. It is, however, a hunting gun steered toward tactical use, and the elements of design when you take it apart show this. It will not run for as long as an M4, but it will run very very very very long, indeed!

How is the aftermarket support on the 1301? Is it as robust as that of the M4 (mag tube extensions, charging handles, shell lifters, etc.)? How is the reliability of it's gas system compared to the M4, mainly for 00 Buck, #4 Shot shells, and high brass slugs (all 2 3/4")? LGS has an FDE and a Marine model each on hand for $1356 new, and I'm on the fence about "pulling the trigger" on one. Or should I just stick with my M4 H2O and M3 Combat...? MNY THX!

I had been wanting one for years as well, but I didn't know if I really wanted to spend so much on a shotgun (I guess I did). Stumbled on the 1301 which I ended up liking ALMOST as much, so I figured I'd settle for it. Cheaper, lighter, and all that. But it's not a Benelli.

I had every intention on getting one of these, but they were out of stock for-ev-er. Got a notification for the M1014, figured I'd better jump on the first thing I could. I'm happy with what I got, but.... Those Berettas are stellar.

New member here. Reporting about successfully getting my new extension on. Had a minor setback, but thanks to @StrangerDanger I'm all good. Now the waiting game begins for everything else...

A classified section would be a great addition to this site. Even if only for Benelli parts and pieces. I think it would be beneficial for all. Kind of a one stop shop as opposed to endlessly searching the web for that elusive and usually over priced part. My 2cents

Just finished my M1014 ?

Latest evolution of my M1014: Carrier Comp Ti mag tube ceracoated midnight bronze (they coated the 3 position recoil tube as well). Briley match trigger and loading port work TTI lifter GG&G Charging Handle GG&G Bolt Release Scalarworks Mount Trijicon SRO Daves metalworks safety IWC light/sling mounts Stippeled fore grips by Tango BF vickers sling

Many thanks for all the knowledge sharing on the this forum which helped me personalize my M4. Upgrades: Collapsable stock, Limbsaver pad, FFT bolt handle, Briley CF mag tube with Nordic extended follower, GG&G bolt release, FFT trigger pack with A&S Trigger guard, TTI extended safety, TTI extended carrier, Carlson breach choke, Tango Arms stippled forearm, and Meprolight night sights.

Just about done! Waiting on the Limbsaver, but otherwise have it how I want it. Really grateful for this forum, and especially @remarkablefor helping me find one, and @StrangerDangerfor the trigger input and excellent overall input on this forum. Only thing I’d change is the light mount, if anyone has an AVA they’d part with.

Just finished mine up for now. Got the trigger and new frame back from Briley and screwed a butt stock on. I have an OEM muzzle brake and a couple other parts on the side. Love this thing, just have to shoot it now

My M4 looks just like any other right now, but the custom case with a benelli flashlight and a interestingly gripped knife with a matching serial number is pretty unique. The only downside is the case is a bit oversized, and the foam isn’t cut in a way that permits adding an RMR, a light, or a stock with an adjustable length of pull so I might have to buy another pelican case.

I have the condor 6 rd ammo card mount on my BM4 with the Velcro method. The hold is very firm and stays in place. Weight it at a minimum as it couldn't possibly weight more than an ounce or so. It works great for me. I had/have the mesa tactical 6 shell holder. Its nice but obviously adds a good bit of weight and size vs. the ammo card pulls off if I do not currently need it.