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Looks totally legit. 🙄

Interim update on it... 1) I couldn't reproduce this feeding issue with A-Zoom snap caps. They cycle with no issues. 2) I inspected BCG and upper receiver grooves for signs of irregular wear and couldn't find anything concerning. There are some spots on edge where black finish came off but nothing that would visible show any change in shape or anything. All-in-all, it doesn't appear that BCG has much to do with feeding issues. 3) I got two replacement OEM springs. While they looked similar but weren't quite the same. Replacements springs are 1 inch longer, have mate finish and appear a bit stronger. So, I replaced the sprint that came with the gun. 4) I went through about 100 rounds of four different ammo types and got one FTF, which is a marked improvement over 4-5 I saw before. Considering the about, it does look like replaced spring made it better but didn't fully resolve the issue. Upon further analysis, I can to conclusion that the ammo load doesn't have much to do with these FTFs but manufacturer is what's most common between rounds that have issues and the ones that don't. Any Winchester load appear to work fine with 0 FTFs, Federal, Fiocci and Stars and Stripes have issues. Changing the spring made Fiocci rounds cycle reliably, Starts and Stripes had that 1 FTF. It looks like some manufacturers have wider tolerances for round's metal base width, that's why some round have more friction going from the magazine to the far edge of the carrier and end up not fully engaging carrier latch. The carrier latch itself appear to have rather stiff spring. I attached a picture of the wear on the receiver from cycling the shell and the wear on snap caps. Basically, it appears that rounds going out of the magazine face rather still resistance from the carrier latch that pushes them hard against the receiver wall (wear pattern is shown on the picture). You can also see aluminum scrap from grinding the edges of the snap caps. While I can't reproduce FTF with A-Zoom's, I ordered Fiocci dummies as these are cheap and have more feeding issues as per the Internet anecdotes. At this point, I'm going to check if I can polish the carrier latch and the receiver wall a bit. I also have a spare carrier latch spring I may consider replacing to see if the new one is softer. Frankly, I'm not a mechanical engineer or a gun smith or even a power user of shotguns, so if the analysis above appear to be critically flawed, please let me know.

Actually, I already thought of that, Pack Rat, but Todd sells them TWO SCREWS for $24.00😬, AND he is all out of them. Some how I did not think he would be too eager to give me the specs so that I could circumvent his sales. In the mean time, however, with a little research, I was able to attain the correct screws, (plus a whole lot more) as part of an ASSORTMENT available from AFH Fasteners on ebay, (for less than the cost of those two screws), AND in a convenient plastic storage case no less! Anyway, that screw turned out to be a #4-40 X 3/16 in case anyone needs that info for future reference.

I switched to and only run modlites now

I like the KeepPower batteries Modlite sells better than the Surefire ones. I stopped buying the Surefire M600DF lights and went with Modlite. I like their light bodies better and the lamps have a hot spot that significantly out performs the Surefire DF heads. You can pick between the various models they have to suit your needs.

I had a similar issue with my new M4 last year, about 2-3 times in every 20-25 shells a shell would get stuck on the carrier ramp. The bolt carrier was not locking back it was simply hung up in the rear position without enough spring tension to move it forward. Basically at the time it seemed like the bolt carrier group didn’t have enough momentum to push it forward and load it. In each instance I was able to either tap the bottom of the shell carrier or the nudge the bolt handle forward and it would load the shell. Initially I thought maybe it needed shells with a little more velocity but this seemed to occur regardless of the type of shells I was using, and always towards the end of the magazine usually around shell 5, 6, or 7. I tried some Federal 3 Dram 1-1/8 ounce #8 field loads, Federal Power Shock 00 Buck, Winchester 00 Buck Military Surplus (Brown Box), Wolf Power Shot 00 Buck, and a few Federal Law Enforcement slugs, nothing low velocity and nothing low recoil and all 2.75" shells. When I say a few total shell count was around 200. I went ahead and took the entire shotgun apart, barrel, magazine tube, gas pistons, plugs, bolt, trigger group/housing, bolt carrier, and thoroughly cleaned and oiled it, sans the gas pistons which the manual states not to oil. Everything looked in good working order but still the issue persisted. Even with dummy shells and testing on the bench it would occur once or twice out of every 3-4 magazines. The aftermarket parts I swapped are listed here: Benelli OEM 7 rd mag tube installed, for 922r purposes I put in the FFT trigger kit (trigger, hammer, disconnector with springs), one of the FFT Mag Followers, an A&S Trigger Housing (since I had to take the whole trigger pack apart anyway to put in the FFT Kit I figured I might as well get rid of the polymer housing plus gain one 922R part), a FFT Wolff Magazine Spring, and FFT Handguard. I also swapped the recoil tube for a 3 position tube but that's Benelli OEM. Basically I've added parts to stay in compliance plus the mag spring but nothing superfluous. No side saddles no aftermarket Bolt Release Buttons, etc… Here was the fix (at least for mine M4 anyway) if anyone else is having this issue, Per Stranger Danger's guidance I went ahead and polished the inside of the magazine tube, used some #1 Steel Wool wrapped around a brass 12 gauge bore brush and attached that to my Drill. Went back and forth for about 20 minutes then switched to a #0000 polishing steel wool and did another 20-30 minutes. That mag tube is smooth as glass. Even went ahead and used some light polishing compound on a cotton wheel on the Dremel on the ridges of the Magazine Follower which is also smooth as butter at this point. However that didn't completely resolve the issue but what did was removing the FFT Wolff Premium Spring. For some reason my M4 was just not happy with the FFT Wolff Premium Spring. I switched over to a Carrier Comp premium spring (oddly also a Wolff Spring but made to different specs) and I am rocking shells up the feed ramp at this point. Even the original factory spring is working albeit a little less aggressively. Interestingly the OEM Spring, and the FFT Spring are close in length, with the FFT being just slightly longer maybe 2-3 inches. The Carrier Comp Spring is over a foot longer then both the factory and the FFT Spring. I talked to Todd over at FFT and to his credit he refunded me the price on the spring I bought from him since it just doesn’t seem to work in my gun. Excellent Customer Service and that was certainly appreciated! Granted I had some aftermarket parts and it sounds like yours is still stock but really in the end it came down to using shells over 1300 FPS (at least initially) and using a magazine spring with greater tension. If you don't want to swap the spring the gun should smooth out a bit with use and that may help. But if you are already so close to the margins that certain shells aren't loading then I'd head over to Carrier Comp and put in one of their springs. However nothing will overcome using light power loads that just don't produce enough gas to run the gun.

1. Check magazine fore-end cap is tight; magazine cap detent engaged. Inspect cartridge drop lever looking for dings or bent. 2. Fully load magazine with "dummy" rounds and manually cycle, as fast as you can, the action until magazine is empty. Did the bolt lock-back inappropriately? 3. When the untimely bolt lock-back occurs, instead of hitting pushing bolt release of cycling charging handle, strike/bounce the butt of the M4 on the ground. SAFETY - Keep muzzle oriented in safe direction. Does the bolt close for the next shot? Agree with 'Evolution's' initial assessment of a weak magazine spring.

Just throwing this out there but, it might be that you have a weak magazine spring that is not throwing the shell far enough back onto the carrier that is jamming up the gun. You will notice that when the bolt is locked back and you press the bolt release it causes the carrier to flip up into the loading position. Possible with your heavier loads, the recoil is helping to nudge the rounds further back onto the carrier and that's why you don't experience the failure with them. With the lighter loads, does it happen on the last couple of rounds from the mag when the spring is less compressed? It's worth looking into.

I just got the frame today and installed, everything seems perfect! The trigger seems to be working as intended, reset is working, feels crisp. Also you were right, i do like the a&s frame alot. The cutout on the upper half is very nice. Thank you for your recommendation i appreciate you ?

The issue lately seems to be the polymer OEM trigger frame having a wandering or new spec. Lately I haven't seen any of the polymer frames function with the FFT trigger kit. You're hammer is definitely hanging on the disconnector shown in your photo. This is the exact issue I usually see and I've rebuilt around a 100 of these trigger packs. You have three directions you can go to fix this; 1. Buy an A&S Engineering trigger frame. They copied the original OEM aluminum frame specs which allows these trigger kits to drop in. 2. Return the FFT trigger kit, and send your polymer OEM frame to Briley. They fit their parts to the OEM polymer trigger frame. This could also be done with the A&S Engineering frame. 3. Try to remove material from the FFT hammer seer. Not an ideal solution since you'd be removing surface hardened and NP3 plated material from the seer contact face. Personally, I would go with the first option. You'll really like the A&S Engineering trigger frame. It will also count as another US made part. https://ansshotguns.com/?product=enhanced-trigger-guard-benelli-m4

Complete BS by the OP for NOT trying to contact you first. BUT taking the time to make pictures, and post them up on the internet. In the time that took, he could have contacted you, and had the issue resolved. For the record, I have 2 of your products, and they are flawless. As the son of a machine shop owner, I can attest, that sometimes, **** happens. If the MFG (you) are willing to make it good, I cant see a reason to *****. Some people live a sheltered life, and the first little speedbump they come across causes them a ton of grief.

Hello this is Dave From Dave's Metal Works, I'm Sorry to hear that your product didn't Thread properly. All of our products carry a lifetime warranty so if you would like to E-mail me at [email protected] we can issue a return, Credit, or exchange. The nuts and tubes are made of aircraft grade 6061 aluminum, and are hard anodized. We do our best to check every tube and nut before it goes out to make sure everything works. It is completely my fault but I am only human so sometimes things get by me. So if you would like to try another nut or want a refund shoot me an e-mail. -Dave

Wow. Thanks for the pile on guys. It is sad that you defend someone who can't make a threaded tube and then attack me for warning others of sketchy QC.