d

double post [ 05-08-2006, 03:31 PM: Message edited by: deasmuth ]

perhapse he has a M4 with the long tube (M1014?) then he would have a capacity for 7 plus extension (+2) = 9? I do not know how it would work (or look). But if it could be done, a german could do it. I would like to see a photo.

add on-- #1 shot has the best potential ballistic performance, but to achive that potential the shot must be hardend and preferably buffered. I am unaware of any manufacture who is currently producing it.

I like twelve pellet winchester supreme XX 2 3/4 OO buck (X12XC0B5), it is a real crowd pleaser. If I am in a home defence senerio against a hardend aggresor I like rottweil/brenneke MP slug (211 5514 ) it will punch through anything out to fifty yards. The winchester is not the cheepest but how often will you be in a life and death home defence situation? Use cheeper stuff to practice with like estate cartridge. good luck.

do they sell to upstanding members of the community? Thank you for your help.

is that a benelli product? ...or..Where can I get one? Thank you M1014.

how is the F.S. attached to the barrel M1014?

if it is for defense, a light is nice and a mag extension. Then perhapse a sling (if you think you will have to transition to a sidearm.) Some people like the side saddle. What works best for me is a cheap, lite, nylon "belly bag" (or whatever they call them these days) with two pockets. One for a dozen slugs, the other a dozen shells. This is definatly the right place to ask, there are some very knowledgeable people around here.

Nice, I don't know if I would go so far as to say lightweight. But definatly a great weapon

Try this: full mag (7), empty chamber, empty carrier. 1) SAFTEY ON! 2) pull the bolt all the way back to "charge" (my other term was censored) the hammer, load a shell in the chamber and ease the bolt back to engage the shell. 3) pull the bolt back slowly and carefull until the end of the shell has ALMOST cleared the chamber, then with your left hand thumb push the shell onto the carrier. 4) do not pull the bolt back so far as to engage the carrier loading cycle. 5) with the bolt still held percariously open, insert another shell into the chamber and follow the bolt home. 6) hold the weapon vertical with the barrel pointed at the sky and press the bolt release button (this will make sure the floating shell on the carrier is fully seated rearward) The key to all of this is makeing sure the bolt does not go far enough back to engage the carrier, if it does (even if the carrier is pushed back down) the bolt will try to pick up the shell and slow down the action (I do not know a better way of 'esplaing it but I have looked at this very carefully and I took my method from the U.S. Marine Corps. technical manual TM 10698A-10/1. Exerpt follows: If you google 'TM 10698A-10/1' you should be able to download and print a copy from somewhere. It is a good thing to have [ 04-16-2006, 09:45 PM: Message edited by: deasmuth ]

Thank you M1014, I have the utmost respect for your opinions and that means alot. -next I want to make a shotgun flash suppressor (like what you have) that will screw into the choke threads, and allow me to use door breaching rounds. I purchased the 4" rail direct from Falcon industries for $25, it came with mounting hardware (I had to cut two of the tabs as seen in the second picture) and two low profile rail covers. I dremelled two ribs off the end (receiver side) of the rail for optimum fit. The mounting ring is a Laser Devices (#30183) 1" NATO mil-spec allen bolt. I purchased it from Gander tactical for $30 (they price match so look around for the best price and email them) http://www.GRTactical.com [ 04-16-2006, 01:33 PM: Message edited by: deasmuth ]

I have been looking for a light mount for my M4 for quite some time and they were not what I wanted do I decided to assemble one my self. I used a falcon industries 4" rail (cut down to 3.5") and a LDI 1" ring mount. I spent about four hours shaping the recess in the stock forend to accept the rail. It took awhile because I wanted to ensure it was square and plumb to the bore and there were few refrence areas I could take measurements from. The following photos explaine much. [ 04-16-2006, 01:28 PM: Message edited by: deasmuth ]

I like this! are you currently offering it? I assume after the rollpin is removed the hole needs to be enlarged? Thank you.

The tube looks right (from my limited experience). There appears to be two channels for the stock retaing bearing to rotate in. Try both channels by carefully (I mean paying close attention to the "feel") moving the stock into the second channel (so the end of the butt meets up with the line in the tube) then rotate the butt clockwise, slide rearward an inch or so and rotate counterclockwise. Or do the same and try sliding it forward. If playing with this does not help, call custemor service and refer them to the pictures you posted here, they should be able to tell if the tube is on correctly. M1014, does this tube look the same as on your 1014's? regards. [ 04-13-2006, 07:03 AM: Message edited by: deasmuth ]

how does the push-button mount attach (and where?) Thank you.

I would not try to remove the tube. I have read that it is attached with a powdered epoxy that cures under pressure (from the compression of the nut on the threads). Even though it is not milled does the detent and releif on the end of the tube look like the last detent and releif on the picture? If not it may be missaligined and have to be sent back to Benelli -- which could be an excellent opurtunity to exercise your charm and charisima by asking them to replace it with a milled tube, Just a thought. --can you post a pic of the end of the tube? There are many here with experience with the 1014. regards.

That is very interesting, Have you tried removing it completely and re-installing? Is it all the way back? (perhapse you are trying to set it too early at the removal point? or is it installed upside down) and finally...what does your recoil tube look like? There is a thread here from last week that has some very nice pictures of what the tube should look like and how it should be oriented. pictures a couple posts down the thread [ 04-10-2006, 02:22 PM: Message edited by: deasmuth ]

That was me that was crying that the sky was falling. There has been no major change to the M4, it will still accept anything you can get for it. I do not know what is up with the photo, it was brought to Impacts attention but they have not done anything....

friction defense wad solvent

there is at product made by brownells that is called "frictionless oil wad cleaner" or something like that. It is specificly made to eat the plastic residue. hmm.. I just checked and I could not find it. I have the catalog at home and will look and post it tomorow.

M4Madness - The stocks are all the same, it is the recoil tube that is different. And the tube itself is the same unit- the 11707 just has reliefs machined into it. It is possable to have the recoil tube modified by maching the reliefs. In other words you can make your 1014 telescope. take a look at the picture posted above and compare it to your recoil tube and you will see what I am refering to. If you do a search or ask 'M1014' "the all knowing one" you can find a machinist who will do the work.

I was thinking about adding a 2.5" rail on the right side, almost all the way forward to attach a surefire 12v light. I have considered the B&T (too expensive and no provision for sheilding hot gas) and the (maybe to be released) surefire M80. However as all I intend to attach is a light, the extra rails would not be needed (and I like the M4 forend.) I would like to avoid a mag tube mount, to ease disasembly. I will so some research on the FCAM. Thank you pdw4137.

Anyone have any leads on where I can purchase a M4 two peice plastic forend? I am thinking about adding a rail to the right hand side but I do not wish to take the chance of screwing up the original. Thank you.

I think you also have to remove the trigger group, then you can twist off the stock.

has anyone seen pictures of the M80 foregrip surefire makes for the M4? I can not locate any pictures of it.