d

the heck with the price. Quality and U.S. craftsmanship are my concern. I would buy a set, give me an address and I will send a P.O. money order forthwith. Also a time frame. Thank you for the initive kendal.

yeah, maybe... hard to tell with out a pic and a little more info. Thank you edon.

now, who know where I can buy a 11707 barrel? Can I just have my local dealer order it from Benelli? Thanks

We have all read that 14" barrels are impossable to come by. I have photoshoped what I think may be a solution. The difficultys associated with converting a standard barrel to a short barrel includes moving the forend fastening ring (as well as the sights.) My thought is: what if the barrel was cut just forward of the barrel guide ring, then cut and re-thread the (standard) mag tube, move the sight, and if desired, have the barrel cut for a choke. by my measurments the firearm would still hold 4+1+1. Any comments on this? vs. factory

I agree with you there STA. I would be interested to learn the whole story.

The gun will work fine. The hard part will be getting close enough to club the goose with it. Go buy a duck, they taste better.

did you break it down compleatly (bolt, receiver, f.pin, etc) clean and lube everything carefully?

hmm... That is very interesting. Thank you for the pick STA. I wish there was better detail on the fit around the top.

I have been following it for two years now. I have never seen a picture or reveiw posted, or it listed in stock anywhere. I have called and inquired early this (last) year and was told "Oh yeah, we are going to make it. It is just not a priority right now, look for it in a couple months." so...

I do not know if I will ever market this product, certanly not at this point. Although it would not be a difficult product to make in an equiped shop, it is difficult to do with the tools I now have. I am looking into casting the forends out of aluminum, this may be easier to do at home. Ragnar-AW50, regarding a conversion, the most important consideration I think would be to make sure your replacement has enough material and clearence around the gas piston housing on the barrel and the channel the piston moves in. There is very little material there in the original design of hand grip (

It is common Gerrya, do not sweat it. Send a couple dozen rounds down range, take it home and clean it very well. Then use a high quality oil (I like XF-7) to lubricate everything and your weapon will chamber, cycle and fire everything. regards-d

this kydex has a very aggresive shark-skin like texture on it. However I do agree that a rubber overmold would be prefered. I just taught myself how to cast, I am learning milling now and I will look into rubber processing next. I just do not want the rubber to start peeling away and look like krap.

I have the molding down pat. Looks very good. Hand milling the seats and reliefs, however, with a dremmel is a pain, consumes lots of time, and produces less than perfect "one off' type guards - very furstrating.... So I am buying a grizzly milling machine. This should allow me to mill with precision, and thus satisfaction. Anyway the disign I have now has a two inch pic rail on the right foregrip plumb ( 90deg removed)to the longitude of the barrel and a six inch pic rail running 180deg removed, (along the bottom axis or seam of the two grips.) I am toying with having a piano hinge join the two pieces togeather rather than toung and grove. Any one see any merit in this? regards-d

I am making a kydex forend for the beast. I have a dozen prototypes done but am not happy with them yet. I have also incoperated a flat mounting area for a rail (light or simmilar) parallel to the barrel on the right half of the forgrip. I will post pics when done. But after months of searching I can not locate an aftermarket forend and I have doubts if SF is ever going to produce theirs. Good luck.

are you refering to the mag tube assy? you should have a red follower (closed at one end and open at the other, like a soda cap) then a spring, then a black spring retainer (cap that is partially bisected to allow it to fit in tube and prevent spring from shooting out when end cap is removed) and finally a much larger than anythin else endcap, open on one end and internaly threaded. good luck

where were you cleaning it? it has to be somewhere. it is about the size of a 2 liter soda bottle cap right?

I would buy a set.

There are a few thread here about the B&T mount, do a search as the information and pictures are very informative. I do not thing the M80 is available. There are also many other options for a light mount, search the forum and you will find lots of ideas. regards-d

http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=742070&MC= $97.00

http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=742070&MC=

I do not know how to help but try checking out this parts diagram: ftp://ftp.benelli.it/Public/UM_SPL/G0191801.PDF and this website: http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=4150zM1%20SUPER%2090%20MILITARY%20AND%20POLICE and see if you can figure something out. Good luck.

$118.00 at e-gun parts. Get 'em while you can. http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=980370&chrSuperSKU=&MC=YJ

I do not think epoxy would be in an spray can do to the binary nature of the product. However you could probably find a good marine varnish or sealent or perhapse a heavy duty art fixatant that would be packaged that way. As always test a inconspicuas spot or better a piece of simmilar (but expendable) material.

good job man. I usually do pretty extensive mods on my weapons and this may make others blanch but I think a thin coat of clear epoxy (carefully and properly applied) would provide a strong protective coat. something to think about. regards -d

what? please, information.