Duggan

The reflex sight is ok Other options: micro aimpoint (best option, expensive) irondot/jpoint/docter/pride fowler eotech 511 other knockoffs Search for this topic and you'll find a lot of info.

Personally I'd get an 870 over a mossberg if I was looking for a second pump.

Get the mossberg. Variety is always good, even if it's bad. Wait what?

No. Not that I've ever seen. You buy a collapsible for that

I'm 97.63% sure it will be a 11707

I'm glad to be sitting on a few hundred rounds of the hottest flite control 9 pellet 00 offered by federal tactial.

Not me man, I'm only interested in $3000+ used m1014s

There is absolutely no reason to pay that much for a factory extension when you can get a higher quality, stronger aftermarket full length tube for around $200. Being made of "all factory parts" does nothing for you legally either, it actually can only hurt you. So no, you're not missing anything, some people are just retarded.

This is hilarious.

You left out my favorite one, the one with the bi pod on it.

Please DO NOT file your receiver. You will do the natural "deformation" of 1000 shells in 1 minute of filing, and it will only be a temporary "fix" ... So long as you shoot your m4, the ejecting shells will cause the receiver lips to wear, creating jagged edges. Filing them down will do nothing but increase and amplify the amount of wear that will be shown on your receiver. All of these pictures are of my gun, which now has 11,500 rounds or so through it. The wear is cosmetic only and does not harm the function of the gun in any way shape or form ... in fact I'd say my gun probably is smoother now than ever, as the parts have worn in and the tolerances have been loosened some, but still at an acceptable level for 100% reliability. My other thread on m4 receiver wear: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17132&highlight=receiver+wear

Wow deja vu, holy sh!t. I can't find the thread where I posted these pictures, but someone posted a picture just like yours asking if it was normal ... I took these pictures of my m4 to put their slight wear into perspective.

What a steal :\

You guys make me proud.

Ahahahahahhahhaahahaa

Glad to hear it. (I have 200 truball slugs in my closet, waiting for a warm day)

Ahh, I really need to get a light for my m4. The rail offering are so meh thus far though ...

I apologize if you take my tone as being rude, but you STILL have not answered any of the questions that I asked. There is no reason, no reason at all, to not list the MODEL NUMBER of the gun that you are trying to sell, as that will both attract potential people looking for that model and weed out people who don't want that model, saving them and you the time of having to talk about it. Also, there are no "cobbed" up m4's ... it is a modular design, and stocks/parts are meant to be easily changeable by the end user. Furthermore, since Adam2340 has already done the math in a post above mine, I think it's clear that you need to JUSTIFY your asking price by providing BASIC INFORMATION about the model and features of your gun. The three main questions people will want to know, which I have asked 3 times and you still have not responded to, are: 1) - Does it have an American flag on the receiver? 2) - Does the stock actually collapse, or is it just a non-collapsible skeletonized? 3) - Does it have a full length (7 round) or limited (5 round) tube? Telling us the model number (11707, 11701 etc) would give us this information. You say you have the box, now look at the box and put the damn model number in your description! You can take it as a personal attack on your ad if you choose, but really my intent is to help you help yourself ... until you can answer these basic questions, I see no way that you are going to sell a used, old model m4 with apparently no full length tube for ~$500 over the cost of new, updated components. Worth is obviously in the eye of the buyer, so your gun may well be worth your asking price to someone, but you are simply not providing enough information to make your product and asking price appealing to anyone. That said, I won't further post in this thread, as I've more than made my point and any further action is up to you.

From what I've heard, you can call CS and get them directly from Benelli. I don't know much about the various choke offerings in all honesty ... which is a bit odd considering how much other stuff I've dabbled in, but I've always just used the full flush choke that came with the gun and it has worked great. Perhaps I'll expand my line of chokes soon. However, if you're looking for choke opinions, talk to Mudhen ... I beleive he has shot like hundreds of various combinations.

I've already answered your question. You can shoot WHATEVER slug you want (so long as it's not like, hard cast or made of some ridiculous material) through any constriction and you will be 110% fine. The slug will deform and push through the choke LONG before the choke will break/expand and allow some super hard slug to basically push it out of the way. I mean, what are most slugs, 1oz worth of a lead ball traveling at 1600 fps, vs the hardened steel cylindrical choke? It's no contest, especially given that the choke only "compresses" the slug a few fractions of an inch, so the actual areas that need to be "squished" to size are pretty small. Again, you will very likely shoot your best groups with a looser choke that WILL NOT deform your slugs at all, such as a cyl choke ... but as always, the gun store/gun show people are full of **** and should not be trusted. Don't beleive me? You say you've already shot a bunch through tighter choke ... remove your chokes, look at them for cracks, look at the threading for push marks, look for ANYTHING abnormal. I bet you find nothing. -Duggan ETA - As far as being interchangeable, yes they are kind of, in that they are all the same diameter (within the gauge of course), but lots of guns have extended or ultra extended chokes, whereas the m4 is normally run with a flush choke. I guess you could use them ...

You still did not address/answer my questions, so I will restate them ... what MODEL of m4 do you have? There have been what ... 6 I think models of "m4's" since they were released, and anyone that is seriously interesting in wanting to purchase your shotgun will want to know what model you have. It says it on the end of the box, be it m1014, 11701, 11703, 11707. 11717, etc. You can also find out the year of your guns production by looking at the code stamped onto the barrel, and matching it to the chart. Many prospective buyers will want to know this as well. You also didn't answer whether or not it had the American flag on the receiver (true "originals" did), nor did you answer whether or not the stock actually collapses, or whether it is just skeletonized. Again, not trying to piss on your ad, but you have not provided adequate information to make the sale at the pricepoint that you desire, unless you find someone pretty clueless and desperate. It would be like me trying to sell a Chevy for $40k, with an ad that said "8 cylinders, air conditioning, 4 tires". It may or may not be worth the price, but I haven't provided enough information to be able to make that judgment.

What model? M1014? 11701? Does it have an American flag? Does the stock collapse? No full length tube? (I ask because the "original" m4's had the "skeletonized stock", which is the same thing as the "collapsible stock", but the recoil tube was not milled to allow it to collapse. So basically ... you either have an original m4, or you have a collapsible stock, but not both.) Pictures would greatly increase your odds of a sale, but for that price even pictures may not help you.

I hear you. A lot of people like and use side saddles. I don't.