NJgunner

What does it matter if the hammer is cocked or not if your leaving the chamber empty? Besides for your homedense your weapon should be fully loaded ready to go! You never know if you will forget to load a round into the chamber, besides that makes alot of noise, if someones into your house you want the element of surprise if you plan on using your weapon against them....better have a light on that shotgun too

get a rifled replacement barell or a cheap used slug gun and be done with it!

I had a problem with jams because of lack of lube. You guy depress with screwdriver and spray out with gun scrubber then use compressed air if you have it. also a 20 gauge cloth brush helps then lube it up with some clp and work the plunger in and out. here is an article I found that will help if you wanna take it apart. http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-173636.html

Have you had any cycling problems? What loads are you using?

If your that close I would just use 00 buckshot on a full choke. What area you from?

You cant expect much from a smoothbore. I would look for a replacement barell thats rifled and good optics will put you at 100-150 yards. Tough to make a long shot with a red dot

Maybe that was the issue I still had packing grease in it. I broke it in with alot of buckshot and never had problems but i put a few hundred rounds through the gun and started having problems pheasant hunting. I beleive all the jams were when shootin in the air hence the gravity issue with the bolt. I never knew to lubrication that part though so maybe it just got dry. Ill let you guys know how I make out with these low brass 1oz loads hopefully sunday. Thank you all for your help

Isnt it like $75/gallon?

LOL @ "secret handshake" As others said CLP is a synthetic lubricant. I love it and use it on all my firearms.

Illegal in my state (NJ)

Ok im gonna try it now that its lubed up better. Do you think depressing plunger with a screwdriver and spraying it out then using a 20gauge cotton swab to make dry and putting about 6 dropsof clp around the tube is sufficient lube?

The shell doesnt eject and it would get stuck sticking out sideways in the gun. I sprayed cleaner with the plunger depressed and then used a 20 gauge cotton swab to clean recoil tube i then put about 6 drops of clp around the tube and worked up and down with the screwdriver...I may take it apart completely and clean it all out although i shouldnt really have to its only been through one hunting season...after benelli told me to oil it more pheasant season was over but buckshot fired fine in it.

U have a SBII?

I have a SBII that went through one hunting seasons. I broke it in right but pheasant hunting with high brass I had some problems with jamming and not fully ejecting only the first round. Benelli said to oil the recoil spring tube but by then pheasant was over. No problems shooting buckshot. Has anyone replaced their spring with the 25% extra power spring from WOLF?Is this better than stock and can I still shoot low brass?

adjustable stocks are illegal in NJ i couldnt get one if i wanted

such a badass looking weapon!

$$$$$$$$200 =)

If it dont cycle in my benelli looks like ill be firing it in my trusty 1187 that never fails!

Surefire lights are badass

BUMP^&^^^^^

I have a 12 gauge SBII w/comfortech...has around 700 rounds through and alot of buckshot. Think these rounds should cycle?

No need to switch out due to springs...springs get worn from expanding and contracting constantly, think of a car that sits there for years its fine. If your used to handling shotguns you should be familiar with the safety in other words if your going to remember to cock the bolt you should be able to remember about the safety. You could just leave safety off, you could always get a glock .45 or XD then u dont have to worry about that problem =) or actually now that i see it, go back to your 220...gotta use what your comfortable with, I hunt with a shotgun so im constantly aware of safety and have never failed to disengage it in the field while trying to fire at game. hope this helps

Shoot a pheasant at 20 yards with improved and then full. Improved will have a better pattern and at full choke 20 yards you wont have much left of the bird.

I have an SBII that I use for skeet, deer and pheasant. For pheasant I use improved because most of your shots are close. Ill switch to modified if its raining and birds are more likely to be running and shots are taken at further distance. For deer strictly full choke, you need to be able to hit 55yards! Hope this helps, I didnt know m4's had interchangable chokes because the website says "C". Also that is an 18" barell right? 24 or 26 would be ideal, I would pattern it depending on what you use. Hope this helps

I wouldnt listen to that guy, have a gunsmith check it out if benelli cant help you...make sure its properly cleaned and lubricated then goto gunsmith....its a firearm you just dont go filing away at things