Unobtanium

I used to work for a maintenance contractor who would key new work trucks minorly. Kept the employees from being weird about them.

A lot of this barrel wizardry went out the window with things like Flite Control and Black Cloud, etc.

@5:32, he hints at a new loading from Brenneke.

Correct. And the sling attachment.

This is why I use OEM Benelli handguards and let Tango Arms stipple them. I know they are made of an application-tested material, and I know they will fit correctly. The USMC tested the everloving hell out of the XM1014. I trust they got the handguard material dialed in.

Ive had training that emphasizes both. Once you begin the engagement, however, none of the training Inhave received emphasizes losing track of your target: light stays on. Moving, you can modulate the switch fine, without compromising grip, at 10:30 in an IWC. Under the stress of firing both psychological and physical in the form of recoil, the light just needs to be left on. Again, once you engage, you do not willingly lose sight of the target. If i need to be super stealthy for some reason, I'll be using i2 and nevermind viz signatures.

I have no issues with constant on. I turn it on. I shoot what needs shot. I turn it off. If I want to be more stealthy than that, I just eliminate all signature and use i2.

I am getting around barrel shadow with a 14" barrel and the M600V. It has ever so SLIGHT a shadow, but shouldn't mess with my i2 any.

Nothing is going to beat stippling except some of the gucci grit impregnated stipple jobs. This stuff feels like each ridge of your prints is tightly shaking hands. I wasnt really super into it even looking at it, but install them and hold the weapon? Its like a lightbulb coming on.

My issue is that the handguards must be removed to field strip, it then takes tools, etc. So you aren't going to RTZ any lasers, and it's an extra pain to deal with. No and no thanks.

Supposedly LE133 was developed to get rid of the "9th pellet flier". I personally have NEVER seen this flier in any of my Benelli guns, but supposedly "it exists". I would buy some of each, and see if LE132 throws wider patterns or fliers for you. If not, then I'd choose it because...extra wound channel.

While these look nice, I have a very strong preference for the current Tango Arms.

For an actual M1014 fixed choke MOD? I'd experiment with buckshot. The LE13200 is good stuff. Truball slugs and Hydrashok slugs (LE127RS and LEF127RS). I prefer low recoil everything, because by 100 yards, LR vs FP slugs have less than 100fps difference between them. So...I just don't bother with the noise and flash and recoil. Here is a demonstration of full power vs reduced recoil buckshot at night from my 14" SBS...

CYL

Benelli bore IDs are 0.728" nominal for cyl. This is a hair narrow as is. Any choke at all, and it strips the FC wad from the shot charge very early, resulting in large or erratic patterns. This is why mossberg and other larger nominal bore gauges can throw stoopid tight patterns with FC buckshot. Ive shot basketball sized 40+ yard patterns with a 590a1, for example.

Get the sbs. Its a fixed cyl. The fixed m1014 mod is good, but it does not play near as well with LE132 and LE133 loadings as a cyl. Form 1 is running 3 weeks on E file.

The SNT is an excellent gun. I am sure you'll enjoy it!

This is burnishing, not galling.

This would not concern me.

Okay...I decided to finally weigh in on this. I do not have an overly technical understanding of anodize, but what I do have are a plethora of high level industry contacts NOT associated with Benelli. I've discussed anodizing with multiple people in the industry regarding thickness, surface growth and propagation, all that jazz, and what it amounts to is that type III anodize, black, can and will show color variance even among the same batch. It's all about the witch brew of chemicals, time, current, surface hardness and specific alloy, and other factors involved. Brighteners, surface treatment, all manner of things go into anodize type III and will influence it. As long as it meets thickness and hardness spec, this is cosmetic. If you don't like it, I don't blame you. But a company sets the "drift" they will accept, and then moves on. Did Benelli lower their ano "cull" rate and allow for increase in drift? Did the Benelli anodizer have "a moment" and change the brew in some way? Is the "age of the internet" and sales volume just exposing a drift rate that has always been at a constant? (Let's be honest, how big was this forum in 2008?) That, I cannot answer. But it's not necessarily indicative of bad QC or anything else, unless you would have Benelli trash the receivers instead of sell them, in which case you would need to position yourself on their board or whatever and make that decision. The anodize on these is quite likely just fine, technically, but with a bit of color drift. Anodizing is a science that is also a art. Instead of explain all of this, CS reps got a bit creative I think. If you do not like the blue, again, I don't blame you. I don't. That said, I am not upset at Benelli over this, nor do I think the ship is sinking.

I've been busy with my new job and not as diligent as I should be in watching the forum. Evolution paid me promptly and this was an excellent transaction. Thankyou!

SPF to you, per PM.

I had bought and assembled this unit with plans to put it into another Benelli M4. I chose to go a different path. This is an LNIB set of giblets from a donor trigger group that came from another gun of mine. Aside from being function tested, it is new/un-used. The trigger group (A&S) is the black, no logo variant, and was also new at the time I installed these smallparts. I used a black TTI safety, and the A&S reduced power safety spring. After assembly, as noted, I function tested this trigger group to ensure that it was safe, and fully functional. It is. All parts not described are OEM Benelli. Price includes shipping within the CONUS. Payment is to be a personal check, Facebook pay, or venmo. Shipping will be USPS Priority, insured for value of sale. Some areas are experiencing shipping and delivery delays. Be aware of this. I am charging $375 shipped. -$200 for the A&S TG -$30 for the TTI safety -$100 for all the OEM parts it contains (a screaming deal, as you can't even find all of them in stock currently, I'd bet, and certainly not from any one place) -$45 for my time assembling this and shipping it to you, insured, and paying for such, so you can just plop it in your gun, keep your OEM for spare parts, and rock on.

I believe it to be the pin on the side that actually bares most of the brunt of recoil, not the bottom you depress. Is this not correct?