Unobtanium

I have seen plenty of these tangs in person. Yours falls within what I would roughly call normal variance based on over a decade of looking at them. The machine marks are ever present in varying degree, and that part is deformed during install. The chrome, if chipped, is annoying, and the only aspect of this that could be considered abnormal byt not unheard of. I cannot tell if its chipped or dirt or lighting causes the photographed appearance near the rivet hole. The machine marks on the tang edge though are 100% a non issue and not abnormal.

This is an LE 11724 made @2017 or so. It has been fired and shows some fouling.

Always. You have provided yet one more piece with which to tempt my friend into buying his "John Wick" shotgun!

Wow. Very Kip-esque!

I have now received the trigger housing. Shipping was prompt, communication was excellent, and item was exactly as described, although I will note that the large, detailed photographs user Milspec took showed every flaw and blemish in his ad. In person, it seems even nicer than the photos showed. I would not hesitate to engage in future transactions with Milspec, should he desire to buy something I have, or I something else he had. Deal with confidence! Thank-you, good sir!

THE aluminum trigger guard went out of production years ago, sadly. Take-offs are about the only way.

If it is it deserves a place in a museum, lol! That hammer used to be mine. It's a good hammer, but honestly, the one that arrived in your OEM trigger pack is also a good hammer.

Place vibratite vc3 on the FS threaded post before reassembling. https://freedomfightertactical.com/products/5-5-mm-open-ended-wrench-for-front-sight-nut

What I do with mine (14"). -Light (what light depends on my application) on IWC. PID is all. -T2 on a Scalarworks. A dot improves precision, speed, and allows more complete visualization of the target than beads or irons. -TTI safety, black. This safety allows you to go hot by depressing it using the middle ("belly") of your finger either on the way, or into the trigger guard. It's an excellent way to keep the gun safed, finger off the trigger, without compromising time to shoot if necessary. A must have, imo. -Lead faucet tactical sling. A sling is to a long gun what a holster is to a pistol. Admittedly, I remove it for my shotgun as its a snag hazard and mine is mainly used for coyotes near my coop. -OEM aluminum trigger guard. No need, I just like it. Nod to tradition. -Bonus...I replace the LPA rear ghost aperture with an LPA made aperture that lacks wings/dots. Its less visually cluttering and the way the dots line up (mickey mouse) really messes with you if you're used to literally any other dot containing sighting system. These mods are not fancy, but they are things I've learned over nearly a decade and a half and owning around 10 m4s, that actually enhance value and function and make it a better weapon for my uses. The trigger guard is a nod to tradition, I admit, though. Also...take it down, wipe it off very well, this includes the ID bore of the recoil extension. Then lube generously. I have come to strongly prefer cherrybalmz black rifle balm, or better yet, the forward design control version of it. Lube carrier rails, carrier bore, cam pin track, and bolt lugs, as well as the recoil spring and tube. Also, the tang of the barrel. A thick grease works well here if you like. Damps vibration a tad. Not necessarily, but will keep interior of receiver ano a hair nicer a hair longer. I didnt shorten my list to fit the OP. This is my list of stuff to get an m4 sbs up to speed, for me.

Its a Hodge mod 2 with a KAC 11.5 barrel and KAC QDC 556 suppressor.

I feel like I hopped on a time-travel bus back to when you and I "met" in 2008 or so. *Obvious vouch for seller. This guy has been here for a very long time and not one negative thing to say about him except he has this stock and I do not, but if I gave him $850, I am 110% confident I'd get the stock just as described, and so will you! buy with confidence.

I'll take the aluminum trigger housing. PM sent.

LE132 was driven by LAPD. They issue m4. Inhave had one light load, it felt different and did not fully cycle. Otherwise fine.

For brown bear, brenneke is the way. 00 should be fine on black bear. 14"=Cyl as noted.

If I recall, this stuff pulls mid 1400s as well. It patterns better than hornady.

Ive never liked or had good results from the Hornady loading, and fwiw, it clocks around 1450fps from an 18.5 while full power federal manages 1320-1380 typically, as I recall, with some nipping the 1400 barrier. I prefer LE132 00. Here it is compared to your federal tungsten stuff.

I typically grease the sear and hook surfaces with a lube that warns against it, such as Cherrybalmz, and it does indeed improve the trigger feel, although I'll never vouch for the safety of it because it does say not to, lol

From the USMC manual:

Probably because your LaRue mount is being slowly destroyed, if you're using the OEM rail. Pop it off and look at that recoil lug... Holy thread reservation! Advice still stands, though.

I zero at 50 yards using slug. I do not believe that a 50, 25, or 100 yard zero would impact the kind of thing a shotgun is likely to be used for when it comes to violence, unless you are hunting, and then your hunting AO will dictate distance so you wouldn't be asking. (Yes, I have work to do)

You can also check this out:

No. I have an M4 SBS and am going to buy another one (because why not? Also, I'd like a "spare"...). I like everything I've read and heard about the 1301, but I have zero desire to invest in one.

Excellent! Very classy!

OP, can you update us? I have the Esstac cards and their velcro, 5 shot, and it slowly began peeling my velcro off the de-greased receiver with the loaded shot card. Has it done this to you, as well?