StrangerDanger

Ordered one as well.

Another great writeup. Thanks for taking the time to do this. The job is easier than I had expected.

Sounds promising. When building your own light, are there any 3 cell options? It would give you longer runtime and assist with pushing the bezel further forward. I'd love to have the head of my M3LT Combat Light on a weapon. When I was at SHOT, Surefire is considering rerating it to 600 lumens.

Outstanding again. If you would, would you do a disassembly guide of the trigger group? I'll host them on my photobucket account if you like so that the quality of your work is shown. With carriercomp releasing their US made hammer fairly soon, a lot of people are going to be disassembling this part. I have some ideas on how it comes apart, but I'd rather follow an experienced users path.

Great tool sets. I ended up ordering the 30 piece fixed blade set lastnight with the wood blocks. Is that the torque wrench that comes with the magnetic bit set? I want to get that down the road as well.

Great job Benelliwerks!

Few places seem to give quality instructions. That set from Brownells is great. It has all of the starter and holder sets. I'd rather have the Starret set of punches though. They are spendy on their own though. The set with Brownells will work for most hobbyists. If you have an AR15, Brownells also sells a modified punch that is essentially cut in half for removing the bolt catch roll pin. It will fit in that block for the punches as well. These punches make putting in that roll pin an easy job. I used to swear a lot and take 5 - 10 minutes to get it in. Now, first try it's in. I squirmed and grumbled when I hit the buy button on those punches a few years ago. One of the best things I've bought considering how much I work on guns now. Next on my list is to buy their Master Gunsmith fixed blade screw driver set. With the nice holders, I'm looking at 300 bucks with the LEO discount. I've been thinking about getting it for myself for fathers day.

The GG&G button installation is fairly easy to do assuming you have the proper tools. You can get the part from Brownells for about 90 bucks. At this same time, you should order a proper set of punches if you do not have them already. You want the following tools to make your hobbiest gunsmithing jobs a breeze: Starlet Punches Roll Pin Holder Punches Roll Pin Starter Punches Alignment Pins Standard punches have a flat end for driving pins. Roll pin holders have a hollow end which fits over the tip of the roll pin. This allows you to tap the pin in without having to hold the pin in alignment with the hole. Roll pin starters have a nipple on the end of the punch. This nipple indexes with the hole on the end of the roll pin. This allows you to drive the pin in that last bit for subsurface flush roll pins. It helps prevent the roll pin from deforming while tapping it in too. Brownells has all three awesome sets. Alignment pins can be had at Brownells as well. They're a basic rod that you use to hold an assembly together while you tap a roll pin in place. As you tap the pin in, it will push the alignment pin out. You should have a brass or nylon headed hammer. I'd recommend having a 2 ounce, 4 ounce and 8 ounce. Field strip the weapon. If you have a vice, or a craddle, it will make things easier. Now, before you tear the old bolt release out, look at how the current roll pin is installed. Note the depth on top and bottom. This is important because the roll pin passes through the channel that the bolt carrier reciprocates in. Now, look inside the receiver, and see where the spring is indexed behind the bolt release. As soon as you remove the roll pin, the assembly will fall out and you won't really know exactly where to put the spring. Now, tap out the existing roll pin. I can't remember if I did it from the top or bottom. I imagine from the bottom with a roll pin starter punch would be easiest. Remove the assembly. Install the new assembly. Seat the spring as you saw before. Insert an alignment pin through the roll pin hole. If you don't have one, a proper sized drill bit will work. This will hold the assembly together while you take the new roll pin in. Install the new roll pin with the roll pin holder. Tap it in until the punch almost makes contact with the receiver. As you tap the pin in, it will push the alignment pin out the top. Switch to the roll pin starter and drive it the rest of the way in. This is where you should pay attention to how deep you've driven the pin. Install the bolt carrier and make sure that it doesn't bind. Attach the oversized button pad to the new bolt release. Apply a small amount of blue locktite to the fastener. Function test the weapon. Or, you can do it Captain Texas style, and use a prong off a corn cob holder and beat it out with a rock.

The M4 is an expensive sumbitch. You're off to a good start though. The carriercomp tube is a must have item. I'd also nab his bolt handle, top rail and one of his soon to be released US made hammers. HK's still selling his collapsible stocks relatively cheap. Contact these guys by phone if you want to save some money on Surefire products: https://newfrontierarmory.com/contact.htm Guns and truck parts are always fighting for priority with me.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]640[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]641[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]642[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]643[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]644[/ATTACH] Thanks. These pictures might help you more. The rubberized portion is at the top of the rail that seats against the barrel. One picture shows where I trimmed the rubber.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]639[/ATTACH] I ended up going with a Surefire M80. Covered it in black LaRue Index Clips. Then added a Surefire M600c Scout Light on a GearSector Offset Mount. I had to modify the M80 to accept the GearSector offset mount. Just a minor trim of the rubberized portion.

Good deal. Glad it helped. Reinstallation is pretty straight forward. The hardest part is getting the existing unit off. Just note how far you need to screw the recoil tube in. You should be able to screw the new unit from Numrich Arms in by hand. The only thing that keeps this locked in place is the lock nut and a reapplication of thread locker. Aligning it properly is pretty easy with the collapsible stock in hand.

There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube. Now time for the hard part. Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction. Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help. To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand. Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring. Install your stock. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.

Excellent. I'm absolutely in for one. I'll buy two more when they're more plentiful.

The bottom rail is a true spec pictatinny rail. It doesn't have that gay lightening cut like the sides do. I'd probably grab one of those new GearSector FVG's if I was going to go that route instead of the FUG. Zero function problems. Minor trim of the rubber to make it a perfect fit around the barrel ring.

I tried the AFG1 and AFG2, but didn't care for it. It felt kind of limiting where I had my hand. I dumped it off my MRP too. I haven't tried a VFG yet though, I can steal a LaRue FUG off a buddies gun. I don't really care for it on his MRP, so I figured I wouldn't like it on my Benelli either. From playing with it and running the light, I felt I needed to be able to slide my hand along the grip. Adding 4 or 5 ounces to the front didn't' sound like a good plan either. The only real value I'd see is giving you the ability to hold a comfortable VFG vs. the railed forend. Years ago, I tried one and felt it was way too thick to be comfortable. I was using Magpul XTM's and TangoDown covers. After I took those pictures, I was able to smash two more index clips onto the left side rail next to the light and sling mount. It makes it look a little better.

It might be an issue with earlier versions? I've handled three of them and installed them on my M4. One in 2009, then two within the past couple months. No issues were encountered. Or they might be installing them on 11701 and 11703 models. If I recall, they just had to file the leading edge that interfaces with the handguard retention devices fore and aft of the rail. I modified the rubber portion of my M80 so it would accept a GearSector offset Scout Mount. This got everything about as low profile as could be. [ATTACH=CONFIG]634[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]635[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]636[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]637[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]638[/ATTACH]

No real fitting issues. Once you learn how to install it, it is actually easier than the factory handguards. When you pull the barrel, it stays attached to the barrel assembly since the argo piston "wings" hold it in place. You pull the rubberized parts apart and slip the M80 off of the barrel assembly. The only thing I guess you could say needs fitting is at the very rear of the M80 where the rubber contacts the barrel. On the newer M4's that have that raised ring around the barrel that seats against the receiver should be hit with a dremel or razor knife to relieve it. You can install it without doing this mod, but cosmetically, it'll look better if you trim it. There is no venting of gas through the rails either. It weighs 2.5 ounces more than the factory handguards. Naturally, rail covers and accessories will add to that. A weapon light will add more. If you ride you thumb over the button of my Scout while firing rounds, you risk jamming your thumb. Particularly with hot rounds. You have to hold onto it like you mean it. The negative I feel is the ergonomics. It's hard to beat the factory hand guard. The nice contoured front end gives you a place to seat your thumb. The M80 feels like holding a soda can or a pringles can.

Yeah, I've done quite a bit of rapid fire through it. To the point that the barrel cannot be touched. the rubber does touch the barrel, but it is a vulcanized rubber that doesn't seem to melt or burn. I'd imagine you'd have to reach a much higher temperature before it would begin to deform. Choosing rail covers can be tricky. I opted for the smallest overall diameter possible other than just running ladder rail covers.

The rubber portion of the newer M80 has been modified so there is less contact with the piston area. It still rests on the ARGO plugs, but no where near the pistons themselves. I've got about 750 rounds through it with it on. No issues arose. The issue with the M80 is the comfort. For me, it comes down to needing a weapon light. So I live with it. I tried the AFG on the bottom, but didn't care for it.

Yeah, hasn't been an issue for me and my 11707 barrel assembly. Factory fore-end is more comfortable though. It's adequate with the Larue index clips though.

Same SOP for the collapsible stock I have. I don't run irons very often anymore. I go between collapsed and middle. After HK tried to buy his way into the rapture by being a good christian and selling collapsible stocks at 265 shipped for a few months, I couldn't pass one up. It forced me to address the fact that my 11703 had the m1014 non-collapsible recoil tube. So I sourced a 3 position tube from Numrich Arms and swapped them out. Not an easy job, but not impossible either. I handled the Urbino for quite a while at SHOT this year. I think it is a good start, but it is in need of a ergonomic revision. The pistol grip is boxy. I know you can put the OEM grip on it, but that is besides the point. That isn't a 100% fix either. I didn't care for the disassembly manner. The tool-less disassembly is one of the key features of the Benelli platform. The cheek riser needed the rubber butt pad to be removed to adjust it. I guess it won't be moving on you unless you want it to, but this still seems mickey mouse. The carriercomp rail is a must for optics. Just looking at it, you can tell that it was engineered properly. It's in spec and should hold up to whatever you intend to throw at it. It sits lower than all the other manufacturers top rails, ie: Sidearmor, Mesa Tactical and so on... The height is kept at the factory picatinny rail height. This keeps your iron sights clear of obstruction. I wouldn't mount overly heavy optics on the M4 since the mounting holes are in thin aluminum. I've put about 150 slugs through this combo. 250 buck and about 300 high brass birdshot. Nothing has moved. Nothing has loosened (I mark my screws with a grease pencil). I revised my weapon light as well. [ATTACH=CONFIG]626[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]627[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]628[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]629[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]630[/ATTACH]

Get pulled over yet with the Z06? I agree with the assessment of the Urbino. However, if using iron sights, it's the best way to go to get the shorter LOP. On hte middle position with the collapsible stock, the irons aren't very comfortable. It is ideal for an optic though.

Moar heat is required. Given enough time, a cheapie heat gun will get the receiver extension off as well. If you're having to strong arm it, the locktite's bond hasn't broken yet. From my experience, newer M4 tubes are easier to get out than older ones. Older ones have a lot more thread locker compound on them.

Knew you would be back. Is this number 3 or 4? I'm predicting a Urbino stock and a slew of carriercomp parts (top rail, ti tube, spring, follower)