StrangerDanger

You'd be happiest with a complete second weapon. Your spouse and wallet won't be too thrilled. Accessories x 2. Converting back and forth blows. The SBS will still have the legal stigma of being a SBS regardless of what barrel is installed. So doing things like going out of State.

A grand is the going rate for any length M4 barrel unfortunately.

A quarter inch extra wouldn't hurt.

Nice restoration! What's that, ammo can green? Anyone notice how bald my tires are in that photo? This is how they're supposed to look. For the butterfly effect, here is before I worked it over and took all the old man crap off. And yes, this is a thread hijacking.

Thanks. Been doing a maintenance cycle and trying to hit some reliability parts lately. Added dual yellow top Optima's. I probably reduced the front end weight 25 lbs. right there alone. I ordered a Borgenson steering box today. Plus about 200 dollars worth of Amsoil gear lube. I finally got around to getting a front differential steel plate. It bolts over the factory pan. I think I have to massage it with a grinder because I have a welded up axle truss on the front axle. I want the plate to mesh up against it. It should be a great cow catcher. I'm saving up for a locking manual hub conversion kit now. That'll get me for about 2500 in parts. Thankfully I can put it in myself. For the Benelli. It's a carriercomp Titanium magazine tube. Shaves 5.5 ounces off the weapon over a full length steel tube. The sling is a VCAS padded sling from BlueForceGear. I use a Design Concepts bolt handle. They're not in production anymore. The carriercomp titanium handle is similar, but better than the Design Concepts. The mini Scouts have limited use for me. They don't save much weight over a 2 cell. Unless you're running a subgun or SBR with limited rail space, I don't see the point really. The lumen and runtime capacity of the mini is quite a bit less than the two cell unit. Mine is a Surefire Scout M600C, rated at 200 lumens.

I just spent the cost of an M4 on tires! Toyo MT 37" x 13.5" on 17" wheels. And 400$ on batteries. No more M4 toys for me for a while. Here's a M4 for you though.

Exactly my point. I'm a huge fan of the MRP platform, however the 308 version is just too damn heavy. The 556 version is an awesome platform.

Huge conspiracy involved. Turns out they're the only screws available to help fix the Japanese nuke plant.

Good choice. They almost always perform better with a minimalist setup. Lighter and less cumbersome too. Did you ever buy those top rail screws? If so, did you put the factory rail back on or did you grab one of Kip's?

KB, Whatcha buildin'?

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=15373/pid=6248/Product/60691_RECOIL_SPRING__STANDARD Out of stock at the moment. Put a few on back order and play the waiting game. Wolff does not make a replacement unfortunately. They have a few that will fit, but I wouldn't recommend them. They're 25% extra power and 25% reduced power springs. You gain little by messing with the spring strength IMO. The Wolff ones aren't meant to be used in the M4. They will say they are meant for all the Super90 series. I tried an extra power one, and it was only about 90% reliable with cheap value pack ammunition. High brass fired just fine, but I felt no benefit from running the heavier spring. Kip, if you're reading this. Have you ever tried to light a fire under Wolff to get them to build a dedicated spring for the M4? I know you have an in with them with the magazine tube springs.

Understood. You should be okay doing a refinish. If you want to cover your ass, scuff it up pretty good and say you want to refinish it because it means a lot to you. I like the skull pattern you posted. Carbon fiber lost it's appeal right around the time ricers started abusing it. Robar's good to go on my ibone. http://www.robarguns.com/index.htm They do camo jobs, but they won't do fancy stuff like the skulls. It's more of a functional finish. I have NP3 on many small parts. My question to them is how far they will be willing to tear your shotgun apart to do the process. Example: Are they going to remove your recoil tube? Or, will they do the process while it is assembled. Robar isn't cheap either. You'd be looking at 500$ by the time you paid shipping costs and all. Wait times are usually 2 or 3 months minimum too. So weigh that next to a simple film finish process.

1520$ isn't bad right now. Last year during the rebates, they were 1425 - 1500 for a 11707. Then knock 200 bones off. I've been pissed at the M4 platform as well and looked at alternate routes since I picked up my 11703 in 2004. The trouble with the M4 is the price of accessories. You can drop a grand on it without even trying. If adding a quality light, expect 2 grand. It's taken me until this year to get the M4 where I wanted it from the beginning. I wouldn't krylon the M4 black. You won't be happy with it and your wife will really rack you. I'd consider sending it some place like Robar. Get a benefit from the finish. NP3 the internals, Rogard the exterior.

When I looked yesterday, I saw one or two that were like 1550 - 1600 for the 11717. All the 11707's are expensive right now. Most seem to be at 1600 - 1700. They're pretty pricey right now for some reason.

I thought Benelli did a pretty poor job with the tan M4. The color isn't right. Plus, they didn't bother to coat much of the gun unlike is displayed in their advertisement photographs. The rear sight housing, top rail and many other parts aren't even coated. I'd wager to say that none of these tan M4's have been fielded in countries ran by the practicioners of the religion of peace. Collectable? I'd say not. They're cheaper than a regular 11707.

Plus the front sight is positioned at a slightly different location. I like the IDF front sight placement a little better. Given the specs to all of this, now consider that the new Keltec shotgun is the same overall length, but also has a 15 round capacity. I'd absolutely buy one if it was a semi auto. A magazine fed Benelli M4 would be pretty awesome. I was considering a 8" Tromix.

That's exactly what I want. Kip? You lurking? Would you make a titanium tube specifically for that if asked?

The m4 usually fails as a result of the spring being weak, but not in the way most think. Usually it will cycle to the rear, but the spring doesn't have the balls to load the new shell into battery. It gets hung up as the bolt rides the hammer near the rear of the cycle. A tap on the bolt handle will feed the round. If this is the case, it's time for a new factory spring. They're cheap. A brand new "stiff" spring should cycle down to Micky mouse value pack crap reliably. I've installed brand new springs and entirely new recoil tubes. The end game is the same.

Excellent job. I completely missed your original post asking for assistance with the tooling. Your solution was much more involved than mine. Albeit a better product in the end. Part of the solution is to take the sprung weight off of the plug. The tension adds to the resistance in unscrewing the plug. This is accomplished by inserting a punch through the bottom hole and compressing the spring upwards towards the receiver. Then inserting another punch through one of the drainage holes in the side of the recoil tube. On my older 11703 tube, I was able to disassemble the unit with the use of some snap ring pliers. On my newer 11707 production tube, this plug was seated more firmly. I got a cheap tool for prying off paint can lids that spread out in a Y shape. This Y shaped end was wider than the plug, so I filed it down to fit inside.

Awesome weapon!

I've been looking for a real photo of one as well. There is a photoshopped one out there. You'd get 3 + 1 + 1. Not only would you get the extremely compact 26.5" package (with the stock fully collapsed) but you also get a massive reduction in weight. When considering the reduction in weight of additional ammunition, the shorter magazine tube, shorter magazine spring, much shorter barrel; you'd be looking at a reduction of about a pound. When Jesus returns for the Zombie Apocalypse, he'll be using one of these.

From what I've heard, you have more options going with KingArmory is probably the best way to go. You have additional options. I've heard they can do a 10" barrel. Basically you'd have the mag cap right at the end of the forearm.

If you want some bunker buster slugs, give these a try. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=132180 They're one of the lightest recoiling slugs I've ever used. They're also one of the most destructive from my own personal tests and from online data. Far more destructive than any Fosters type slug I have used in side by side comparison. These expanding 1 1/8 ounce steel slugs will punch through an engine block. They'll also open up in a target upon impact and shed the six steel peddles almost instantly. The six peddles travel at a 30 - 45 degree angle from the impact site approximately 10 - 12 inches. The core of the slug keeps on trucking straight through. Russian brown bears that are shot with them have penetration cavities all the way through the body of the bear. Most published cases show that the core of the slug is retained in the body under the skin on the opposite side of the impact site. If I had an over penetration concern, I'd opt for a different weapon. The only ammunition that my M4 has ever given a thumbs down to and fail to feed and cycle are older paper hulled rounds.

The games got considerably better since 2006. 3 parts needed for the M4 with a fixed pistol grip stock. 4 parts needed for users using an imported collapsible stock. Unless someone has went the SBS route or had a specific part made for themselves, they're not 100% compliant. 4 applicable parts simply do not exist yet while allowing for the use of the imported collapsible stock. Back in 2006, the majority were running m1014 and 11703 model shotguns. So most were stuck with the old recoil tubes that prevented the use of a collapsible stock in functional form. Current production shotguns have addressed this and there are sources for buying a replacement recoil tube that will accept the stock. Back then, your only choice was to find a gunsmith willing to take on the challenge.

Does everyone have a letter specific to them for their AK? Most likely, no. The consensus is, you need 3 US made parts for fixed pistol grip versions, or 4 parts when using the Benelli collapsible stock.