StrangerDanger

They’re not very good. You don’t get much leverage on the choke.

I’d recommend you get a Briley choke tool wrench. You can torque it much tighter than the oem one. Get the choke grease while you’re there. They sell a bush for cleaning the choke threads if you want to go all out.

Briley makes the carbon fiber magazine tube. 3.2-3.4 ounces vs. the 5.5 ounces for the titanium models out there.

Oh I didn’t even see that. As long as it doesn’t interfere with your barrel seating fully against the face of the receiver, it shouldn’t give you any issues. You might check the back side of the barrel and see if there is something causing contact there. Sometimes the rivets for the ejector aren’t the best. I’m not sure if that is in this area or not.

You're alright. The barrel extension is just rubbing on the anodizing there. Just make sure your magazine cap is on tight and that will prevent the barrel from moving around. If it bugs you, you could get a bottle of Alumablack and rub it on the silver area to return it to black. Just expect to need to do it once in a while. If you're talking about around the ejection port, that is common. The brass hits the receiver and will round the edges over. They all do that. It's how you know who shoots their M4 and who just fondles it!

If you hadn’t put an arrow I wouldn’t have even noticed it. I wouldn’t do anything except shoot it. You’ll get more wear around the ejection port from ejecting shells than that dent is.

It’s how I would do it if I was chasing a collapsible stock for a reasonable price.

It’ll be fine. It’ll collect more with use.

You could bleed an elephant with that blood groove! I just ordered myself a Haley Strategic Darter fixed blade knife the other day to try out for daily carry. https://haleystrategic.com/limited/the-darter

Or go carbon fiber. It looks great on the H2O. Briley ships fast.

You can go with a carbon fiber magazine tube instead of titanium and cut a few more ounces. You can install a titanium choke to cut a fraction of an ounce off. Deleting the iron sights will shave about 4 ounces. That’s about all the weight you can trim. Avoiding packing on the weight elsewhere helps.

I’m not at home to confirm, but all four of those are different sizes than the set I listed. That doesn’t mean they won’t work for the job though. The set I listed will do the ring that retains the trigger pin in place, the snap ring in the base of the receiver extension, the magazine spring retainer and the trigger bushing retainer.

I use this set on the Benelli from Knipex. If you’ve ever used those shitty 10 doll snap ring pliers that are reversible, you will hate encountering snap rings. With these, those pain in the asses are now, “that was easy.” Knipex makes top shelf tools. I think I bought my kit for 145ish. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EXNT38?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Looks great. Really like those stippled forends on it.

None that I could see.

Remove the handguards then reinstall the barrel so that you can access the pistons. Now slide the pistons back and forth to see if they move freely. Each side should move the same amount fore and aft. It appears to be a machining bur that wasn't removed. You could file it away if you like pretty easily. They sell bur removal tools that are made specifically for removing things like that, but it might not be worth the expense for you unless you do things like this sometimes. I would mainly remove it since it could be a hazard for your fingers when cleaning the shotgun. Obviously sending it to Benelli would resolve the issue, but I don't think it's worth a trip to Benelli over. You'd be without your shotgun for a couple months for a 5 minute job. Benelli's quality control lately has been letting a lot of issues slip by.

The OEM spring is kind of junk. They take a set pretty quickly which reduces spring tension. When I first got my M4, I had a hell of a time with my spring causing the firearm to not want to load the last round in the tube onto the shell elevator. Took me forever to trace the problem to the spring. My personal favorite spring is the carriercomp one. It is made by Wolff to their specifications. It requires very little to any trimming to fit seven rounds. I'm using the same spring I put in over a decade ago without any issues.

It would be the cheapest fix by far! I found my Aimpoint T1 obstructed my view a lot more than the RMR does. I also like the auto dimming function on the RMR over the Aimpoint.

They’re also expensive and the aftermarket units are as good or better.

What don’t you like about the RMR on the M4? Would it be better if you raised the optic height so that it worked better with the middle stock position? You could add a spacer between the RMR and the Scalarworks mount. https://reptiliacorp.com/product/rof-riser-for-trijicon-rmr/ They have a 2.5mm and a 10mm height. Nothing says you couldn’t stack two or three of the 2.5mm plates to reach a specific height. You just might have to source some custom length screws. If you want to go with the Aimpoint, I’d get ahold of one of the Scalarworks dedicated rails for it. I believe the Aimpoint sits a little higher than the RMR due to its size.

The oem rail has that sight channel milled into the rail which weakens it to some optic mounts like LaRue. The recoil outs are just barely larger than the channel they cut. So all that force ends up beating up a relatively small area of the rail and can get chewed up. Carriercomp used to make one. I doubt we’ll see another run from them. FFT now makes one that is nearly identical. These have full picatinny rail lugs. While this is nice, it does interfere with the sight picture since you no longer have the channel cut thru them. Personally I remove the iron sights and install a Scalarworks Sync rail and a Trijicon RMR RM09. Having iron sights as a backup sound good, but in reality they really aren’t doing much but adding weight and sight picture clutter.

Correct, you'll have the black polymer trigger frame and a black bolt carrier.

Top one is an actual NP3 plated model. So many of the internal components were plated. Benelli also photoshopped a lot of the original NP3 releases. They never plated the aluminum trigger frame or collapsible stock body or top rail if I recall.

That’s the one. they’re a little longer than most followers I’ve seen. I don’t know what the reasoning is behind it. It’s hard to see, but it’s a smooth radius on the lip where as most followers just come to a 90 degree with a lightly broken edge.

The carriercomp one is made by Wolff just to carriercomp's specifications. I may have used the FFT springs in the past or when assembling others builds. I don't recall anything negative about it. I've just stuck with what has worked for me.