StrangerDanger

You have a good plan so far. Good choices on components. I assume you're using a collapsible stock, and you'll get the IWC Magpul MOE QD sling mount for the stock? I'm liking the TTI bolt handles. They're my go to choice since Carriercomp's are non-existent.

Interested in this too. Wish they'd send the parts out for self install though.

Some are rough.

What kind of slugs have you been using? Lead slugs tend to generate the most perceived recoil in my experience. Sabot slugs are similar to buckshot recoil profiles. The choke tends to deform the sabots less and they seem to be more accurate. Specialty slugs like Hexolite32 steel slugs have similar recoil profiles of sabot slugs. It's never going to group like a rifle, since it's a smooth bore. If you're planning on firing a lot of slugs, I'd recommend doing the Limbsaver modification. It'll cut 40% of the bite off of the perceived recoil.

I think I got the specs from Benelliwerkes. I wouldn't tighten them again unless you want to do the entire Loctite procedure again. Once it dries, you want to leave it alone, or you'll break the adhesion. You should be fine with the 241 and degreasing the fasteners. What I'd do is get a silver Sharpie, and put a witness line on the fasteners across the screw head and onto the rail. Basically just a dot. This will give you a visual indicator to see if the screw is backing out. After a few outings, the Sharpie mark will wear/wipe away with the cleanings. I use a Seekonk dial indicator torque wrench that fits all the magnabit attachments.

thats higher than the factory torque settings for the OEM rail. They specify 16-18 inch pounds. I'd be okay with taking it to 25 with a good torque wrench. Do you use the factory washers with this rail? I'd also use Locktite primer and the special blue 243 Loctite that adheres to aluminum/steel better than the regular 241.

DSG Arms in Texas had some Geissele hammers the last time I checked. Fft has disconnectors in stock, but the triggers and hammers are back ordered deep.

The polymer ones are too new to tell. I doubt they'll have any issues with the way it is designed. The primary load bearing part is the trigger pin bushing. It takes all the beating from the hammer cycling. The bushing is held in place by the receiver when fully assembled. The rear is also held in place by the pistol grip. There is also one additional part in the polymer units. There is a washer that adds some support to the elevator plunger. Everything else is interchangeable. The polymer unit is approximately 1.5 ounces lighter than the aluminum unit. The aluminum units typically have a lot of rough casting marks on them. Many exhibit small casting defects on the sides which appear to be small pits. Most of the time this isn't an issue unless you're refinishing the unit in a light color like NP3+. Then the pitting stands out more.

I'd buy some of these too if there is more than one or other sellers.

You should not have any issues with the lighter trigger spring. You'd have to drop the weapon hard enough to cause the trigger to move, releasing the sear hook. This would be tough since once the sear is engaged, the tension of the hammer is then applied to the trigger sear. The spring is mostly taken out of play at that point. i would avoid changing the hammer spring for a lighter weight though. In my tests, I ended up with a lot of failures to fire. Light primer strikes being the most common.

You're lucky to have gotten one of those hammers. Geissele is on another kick where they claim they won't produce any more.

Good start!

You saying, "it wasn't smoking like a chimney'? When you're circling the tube with heat, you'll see some light smoke come up when you're on an area heating up the thread locker. You could also pour water over the receiver as you heat the mag tube area if you're worried about it. Or just sit it in a bucket of water.

Not so much ITAR - but the Department of State DDTC since it is a shotgun related component.

In some places, I like polymer better than metal. Example, older metal magazine followers aren't as smooth as the newer polymer ones. Even the polymer guide rod in the Beretta 9x series pistols is an upgrade over the older metal model. We will see how the polymer housing performs on the Benelli M4. The hammer puts quite a bit of stress on the trigger pack during cycling. The cast aluminum housings had issues as well. There were always a lot of cosmetic defects and flashing remaining. Most have pitting marks throughout the frame. On ones I send out for refinishing, I clean up the flashing with a file first.

Could definitely hit the tube with the MAPP torch and let the heat saturate to the receiver. It would minimize the heat exposure to the receiver. I don't think it matters that much, I've gotten the M4 hotter than that just from firing a couple hundred rounds in an hour. That poor ******* of a M4 has been through 14,000 rounds now without issues. I'll PM you some options.

Still working graves at the hospital? Magazine tubes are easy. I have a Wagner heatgun for those. Just did a members 11707 that is a newer production model last night. The new thread locker is tougher than the old stuff, but it'll break down after 10 minutes or so. Surface temp never got over 275 degrees on the receiver according to the laser temp gun. The H2O I posted above was the same. It started life as a new production 11715 with a polymer trigger pack. I figured they marked them after they assembled them, but I could be wrong. I may buy that barrel extension just to have a look at the construction techniques. I'd love to be able to strip the extension of its ejector for coating. Robar doesn't cost the extension due to the ejector being riveted in place. It's a pretty cheap piece anyway.

Thanks. I don't like doing them. It's a little scary taking a metal file to a brand new receiver. Plus it takes like 4 hours. It adds a lot more room to load shells in though. Coupled with that TTI elevator, and you have damn near a competition ready port. Modifications to the shell stop can be dangerous, so I usually avoid those. On the H2O Extreme, I polished the magazine tube on the inside and the end of the shell stop to make loading a little easier without doing any competition style modifications like enlarging the relief cuts to let the metal flex more. The NP3+ on the shell stop also makes it a little easier to load. I have that Federal and Winchester brand Walmart value pack crap. I think it is the Winchester brand that doesn't perform well. The Federal does just fine and cycles properly. Fire some high brass slugs during testing. The slow motion video of the action cyclicing is awesome. It really shows how well the Limbsaver buttpads soak up the recoil and let you stay on target.

I'd agree. My guess is they're up above 150 ft. Lbs. They probably use that green locktite too. I notice a lot of the barrel assemblies have witness marks where the extension and the barrel meet. Many of them are not aligned with the witness mark. I assume they had to be adjusted for alignment purposes after assembled.

Yes. I've done quite a few. Not just the older M1014's and old 11703's with the neutered receiver extensions, but also new production models for propper coating projects. I use a MAPP torch and focus the heat on the stainless receiver extension. I keep a temp gun handy to keep an eye on the temperature of the receiver.

Never seen that. Interesting.

I'm certain you're going to love it. I really like having the rear sight housing done along with the trigger pack. Even the Geissele hammer and fft Disconnector were done in NP3+. The trigger pack is like holding a piece of glowing billet sterling silver. Not a single piece on it except the tiny disconnector pin (Robar refuses to cost really small pins) is coated. All of the hardware you can't see was also coated like the brackets I made for the Limbsaver buttpad and the pins that hold the collapsible stock together. I disassembled the Argo plugs and had all the components coated except the spring. They even coated the removable choke. And yes, that is a titanium carriercomp magazine tube coated in Np3+. Full reassembly, test fire, cleaning, and mailing it back to the owner took less than a day.

Mike - Yes. I opened it up about as far as physically possible without getting too close to the pin channel for the shell stop. I took the finish down to 2000 grit. It was pretty much mirror finish by that point. The NP3+ covered it perfectly and made it appear factory. I test fired the gun today. Performed perfectly except on some crappy low dram 7.5 shot. That crap doesn't work in any of my M4's reliably either. Went thru a 100 rounds of various slugs and buckshot. Did some slow motion video to see how the action was performing too.

Recent work. Built an H2O Extreme.