StrangerDanger

Both seem to fit quite well. I can't tell a difference at least.

FYI, pictures are back up.

Should be back online in the next day or two. These tutorials are really popular and blow the bandwidth limits almost every month. I have them spread over three accounts currently to spread the bandwidth load.

My guess is he misunderstood what you meant. You're good to go.

Completely normal. The OEM hammer does the same thing. Just make sure you perform the safety check on the fire control group after changing or disassembling any trigger group. The full test is outlined at the end of the tear down post.

Decocked it will flop around fore and aft. When the hammer is cocked it should be held by the trigger sear.

http://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32332-Benelli-M4-Complete-Trigger-Group-Assembly-Guide I think anyone could do the more themselves with the appropriate tools. Knowing how to do something yourself is a valued asset. If something happens, you can address the issue yourself. I'll gladly assist anyone who doesn't feel up to the challenge though.

As my Chinese girl friend would say, "Raughs."

Link to what?

A few hammers compared. The OEM used unit has 12,000 rounds on it. The FFT and Geissele have about 2000-2500 on it each. You can see the deformation where the carrier makes contact with the hammer. The nickel finish on the FFT will flake off on the impact areas.

The casting defects are shown on the trigger. The hammers are made by FFT and Geissele. The FFT and OEM hammers will show deformation after high round counts. None of this has ever been shown to effect function. The trigger shown will not have any functional issues. It's purely a cosmetic defect.

If you do decide to swap it, I'll do it for free.

I'd leave it alone. Sanding it will likely cause more problems since the np3 finish is really thin. Almost all the FFT triggers have these kind of marks in my experience. Todd at FFT would likely hand select you one if you wanted to go thru the trouble.

I don't lubricate the stainless gas pistons. It tends to just collect carbon build up and causes the weapon to smoke a lot when fired. There isn't much benefit to having it lubed either.

Great choices in aftermarket parts.

Where can aluminum receiver extensions be found? I pitched this idea a few years back to carriercomp. Mainly to make a lightweight extension with additional collapsible stock notches. The weight savings may be negligible since the weight is at the rear of the weapon.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=410996030

Simplest test is to source some military ammo. I feed my builds Wolff to see if it'll cycle that crap to determine if it is functioning properly. Sometimes aftermarket main springs can cause issues too. If you can get ahold of a milspec spring, try it. At least before you start tearing into the gas key and gas block. Worst case scenario, the gas port on the barrel may need to be opened up. The barrel for my build is a hang up. I'm not sure what route to go. I may just opt for a Noveske stainless 18 or 20 inch barrel and call it good. Another thing I'm having trouble with is the bipod. I'd love to get one of the Bobro bipods, but they seem to be non-existent. I'm probably going to use a JP M16 bolt carrier group along with their Silent Buffer. I have had excellent luck with this combination in the past. I want to use a V7 Weapon systems upper receiver. A PWS 416 receiver extension. Magpul ACS collapsible stock for the cheekweld. Raptor ambidextrous charging handle. Battle Arms Development CASS ST. Mag Tactical lower receiver. Geiselle trigger, probably the enhanced SSA I have. Surefire M600U Scout Light on a IWC Thorntail mount. B E Meyers 249F flash suppressor. I'd like to get the 15" KMR, but I don't know if I'll wait long enough for it. It would be better for the bipod mounting solution. I have a set of Dupeck Defense 45 degree offset sights I might put on it. The only thing I dislike about them is they weigh a lot. They are drastically faster than deploying flip-up sights and trying to remove the primary. With the optic, I hope to be under 10.5 pounds. I'll drop in a few V7 Weapon Systems to trim away some of the weight. The idea is a heavy precision barrel and glass inside a lightweight frame.

Perhaps a leaky gas system or partially obstructed gas port? I'm working on a memorial rifle for my friend. I'm building up a precision ar15. I'm going to drop a Nightforce 5-25x atacr optic with LaRue mounts on it. I haven't decided on what barrel yet, but it'll be in the 18-20" range. It won't be a bench gun. It'll be set up to actually be used in the field. I plan to use the KMR rail and a few other lightened parts that won't hurt accuracy.

It sounds like they try to prevent the ARGO from opening during the pressure cycle. So all the power gets dumped thru the piston no matter what the dram load. Sounds potentially dangerous for the pistons and the bolt carrier. I already wore one bolt carrier out Asa result of over gassing from a 4 port barrel.

Total bullcrap. I took apart the ARGO system at the 12k mark just to see how to do it. While there is a bit of carbon inside the plugs, it certainly wasn't seizing them open or closed. The carbon is self limiting. It sounds like they're jamming them closed so the piston is getting the **** beat out of it no matter the round dram. They're so certain of the modification, that they don't even post about it on their website.

Vertigofirearms pretty much nailed it. The ATI is a very complex design. I tried to get one to do a review, but ATI said to FOAD. If a shorter lop is all you're after, I'd recommend just getting the Urbino. Just keep the locktite away from it!

Have you test fired it?

Mod an ATI stock so it won't collapse? I'd personally rather have a OEM collapsible stock pinned where you want it. The ATI appears to be a boat anchor. As for optics, I really like the Aimpoint T1 series on a LaRue low mount. You'll need a replacement top rail to effectively use it though. Currently I have five T1's. Three of which are 4moa units on Benelli M4's. I would rather have the newer 2moa units though. Two 2moa absolute cowitness units on my Ar15's.

The sling mounted retention device is a simple ring that seats in place of the factory sling mount. It has a flared edge that contacts the light where the tail cap and body meet. This bracket prevents the light from sliding in or out of the ring mount. It's simple and effective. It's limited to functioning on only certain light designs. I tried to unscrew the head of the p3x by hand, and it was a no-go. I didn't push it. I didn't bother with the P2X.