benelliwerkes

No one said it was easy ! The extractor has a hole in it, thru which passes the roll pin; the extractor spring is held in place by the back edge of the extractor internally. Remove the pin, the extractor and its spring will be liberated. The difficulty is that the pin has to be removed from top to bottom of the bolt head, as there is obviously insufficient clearance for the roll pin to exit the top of the bolt. A modified pin punch will be required as only ~ 30 % of the top of the roll pin circumference is available to make contact with any punch surface. The removal is facilitated by securing the bolt head in a padded vise to assure that all the force of the punch tip is transferred to the roll pin to initially "get it moving"; if you attempt it on a soft table top etc, the force will be absorbed by the platform the bolt is resting on. The factory probably has a special XYZ tip fitted to a hydraulic arbor press to spit that pin right out.

You might have to look closely for the lettering.[ATTACH=CONFIG]1170[/ATTACH]

This is how one of mine arrived from the factory. In Italian: D=dextro=right S= sinister = left [ATTACH=CONFIG]1166[/ATTACH]

Divide by 2.

You can use a Gear Sector rail / QD attachment. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1139[/ATTACH]

I keep this one configured plain Jane just for you Bello ! Enjoy. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1138[/ATTACH]

LOP is 9.25" with stock collapsed. LOP is 14.25" with stock extended. Extended butt stock adds 5" [ATTACH=CONFIG]1137[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1136[/ATTACH]

Precisely !

Some additional photos to illustrate the internal symmetry of the Safety-Trigger relationships. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1134[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1135[/ATTACH]

Still can't figure out how to upload the photos directly into the thread rather than thumbnails !

It doesn't matter what the safety position status is; the center of the safety is symmetrical allowing the detent plunger to fall into either detent and also to accommodate switching it about for left hand preference. Always remember to check the function of the safety in the trigger group while it is removed from the receiver and to re-cock the hammer and depress the bolt latch while re-installing the trigger group. Photo might help. Attempting to maintaining the red paint on the enlarged safety will probable not be durable as there is no circular recess for the paint to remain within; the close tolerance of the smooth surface aftermarket part will quickly remove it. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1133[/ATTACH]

This one is configured with most of the goodies on your Xmas list. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1131[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1132[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1130[/ATTACH]

I may have posted these photos before, but a simple fork tool to compress the safety spring is pretty handy. The diameter of the spring tunnel is not much larger than the diameter of the retaining roll pin which makes the tolerance fit for the tool really close !.....I am certain there is some special XYZ factory tool employed for this task. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1129[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1127[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1128[/ATTACH]

The stronger snap ring pliers are burdened by not allowing the tips to be positioned as close as needed to insert into the stout small snap ring; the smaller sized snap ring pliers allow the tips to be close but their diameters are small and almost too fragile to expand this particular ring. So, the snap ring tips were modified; each placed in a drill press and turned with a file, reducing the radius to match that of the snap ring engagement and it allowed the tips to be closely apposed for insertion into the ring. Only took a minute or so to do and prevents slipping of the tips and marring of the gun art. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1125[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1126[/ATTACH]

use a base coat of white paint then apply the red coat the next day to get the best brillance of the red color.

Regardless of the M group trigger series (M1, M2, M4) except for the removal of the hammer pivot pin being retained by a "D" ring or an external snap ring, the sequence is always the same. If there is a "trick" it is just pushing the hammer pivot pin to the right only enough to liberate the hammer; if you push it too far to the right the carrier and carrier latch will get out of alignment due to the bolt latch spring / plunger tension on the left side off-setting the alignment. It is a very easy substitution if you take your time and carefully manipulate the parts. Safety glasses are standard operating procedure for these maneuvers. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1123[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1120[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1119[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1121[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1122[/ATTACH]

I received mine from Kip about a week or ago.[ATTACH=CONFIG]1118[/ATTACH]

Here's the style punch modification you need to remove the extractor retaining pin.....replacing it use a proper-sized roll pin punch as there are no obstacles to driving the pin in to the bolt to install the extractor. The one illustrated is a modified Brownell hardened punch tip, but any hard punch will do. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1117[/ATTACH]

Just drive the retaining roll pin out and be ready to capture the extractor and its spring.

I believe Unobtanium has been trolled ! I'll check back to see if you still have yours.

If the shadow is objectionable, then you should mount it further forward.......so it's non-existent or a smaller shadow ($ick). The upside is the bad guy just got whacked by a big $ick !

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1088[/ATTACH]I agree the Gear Sector is well made and I use it as an alternative mounting system.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1086[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1087[/ATTACH] Why is blame singly assigned to the disconnector ? The disconnector is not solely responsible for securing the hammer in the cocked or almost-cocked positions, the trigger sear notch and the disconnector sear notch both perform that function on opposite sides of the hammer surface. The disconnector is only serving to retain the hammer in the cocked position when the trigger remains pulled during the action cycling. When the trigger is released the hammer control tasking is handed off from the disconnector to the trigger sear which controls the hammer position.......if the hammer has followed the bolt forward during the action cycling, the hammer notches have have failed their jobs, not the disconnector alone. Either the rapid vibrations of the cycling has interfered with the trigger return / disconnector springs harmonics not keeping up with the velocity of the bolt cycling or a too loose tolerance between the trigger sear / disconnector sear and the two hammer notches - a tolerance mismatch that is exposed during rapid cycling causing the hammer to not be captured by either the disconnector or the trigger and therefore the hammer follows the bolt forward at similar velocity not causing primer ignition. Also, the problem of the hammer not being captured by either the trigger sear or the disconnector sear is a bolt moving forward mechanical timing problem - the forward speed of the bolt is dependent on the expansion of the action recoil spring assembly, and thus independent of the cartridge load which might alter rearward bolt speed in some benelli actions e.g. inertia bolt system. The point being, if the "disconnector" problem is present and can be unmasked by the operator, it should be demonstrable with any cartridge type.

It's Kip's.

I have another prom queen in drag....she'll go home alone.[ATTACH=CONFIG]1077[/ATTACH] Let's see your arm candy.