OhioM4 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Kip just updated his website this morning to include the new Picatinny Rails. $57 plus shipping. http://shop.carriercomp.com/product.sc?productId=6&categoryId=5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stompy Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Let the rail battle begin: Carrier Comp vs. Side Armor. Who's is better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas skeeter Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 at least sidearmor has pics of theirs!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super33 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Sidearmor still hasn't shipped mine, I ordered it over a week ago, they said it's on backorder until next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cleefurd Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Eight images here; http://photos.carriercomp.com/GalleryThumbnails.aspx?gallery=407774 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas skeeter Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 my ploy worked!! thanks Cleetus!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unobtanium Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Sadly, I am selling my M4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cleefurd Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Sadly, I am selling my M4. I saw that. My daughter came close to selling mine.... since I nearly bought the farm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AggiePhil Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 YES!!! This came JUST in time for me as I almost had to buy a Sidearmor rail and side saddle that I didn't really want. I'm anal about weight savings and don't want a heavy side saddle that I don't need. But their rail only has this huge overhanging part that will get in the way of a velcro side saddle, which is my preference in lightweight side saddles. So they basically force you to get the whole meal deal if you want any side saddle at all. But with Kip's new rail, you can get just the rail, throw a 3GunGear velcro side saddle on their (quality kit BTW), and you're GTG! Thanks Kip! I'll be calling you today to buy this rail and have it added to my order for the titanium mag tube that I ordered two weeks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saym14 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 is the stock rail really that bad ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stompy Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 is the stock rail really that bad ? Yes, its cheap, has the "groove" down the middle, is not mil spec and it will bend, break, and tear up quality mounts. If you want to mount any quality optics you need either the carrier comp or side armor rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unobtanium Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I saw that. My daughter came close to selling mine.... since I nearly bought the farm. I heard. I am glad you did not! My M4 sale will provide 15% of the downpayment on a new car mid 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalKoala Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I heard. I am glad you did not! My M4 sale will provide 15% of the downpayment on a new car mid 2011 Be sure you have enough for the "Carbon Offset" price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tactical1 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Anybody got any ideas on the torque specs for the screws? yes, some of us lead very sheltered lives where 'hand tightening' is insufficient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Anybody got any ideas on the torque specs for the screws? yes, some of us lead very sheltered lives where 'hand tightening' is insufficient My original screws sure weren't very tight. I bet if you ask Kip, he could give you the optimal magic spec number. Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhioM4 Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 is the stock rail really that bad ? IMHO it's the groove down the middle that will determine if it works for you or not. If you have an optic or mount with bars all the way across that fully engages the rail key (like an Eotech) I think it is OK. The definite problem is with mounts that are also keyed or grooved in some way (the LaRue only has small ears that engage the rail groove). Such that there is not a complete horizontal bearing surface. In this situation you end up with only minimal contact between the mount and the rail. There are pictures posted of the LaRue mount that clearly show that only a tiny corner of the mount key bears against the corner of the Benelli rail. This situation clearly calls for a non-grooved rail to ensure full engagement of the mount keys in the groove. I have an Eotech and the cross screw bears fully on the Benelli rail keys and I don't worry about it. I'm buying the rail in case I want to try other optics with the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saym14 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Yes, its cheap, has the "groove" down the middle, is not mil spec and it will bend, break, and tear up quality mounts. If you want to mount any quality optics you need either the carrier comp or side armor rails. wow - that relaly sucks for a 1400$ shotgun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unobtanium Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 wow - that relaly sucks for a 1400$ shotgun. Yes, but it's the only mechanically weak link on the weapon really. Everything has a mechanical weak-spot. Everything. The M4S90 just has VERY FEW (one?) and an ergonomic weakpoint (long stock). Both the rail and stock are fixable with a minimal of cash/effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHat Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 (edited) Anybody got any ideas on the torque specs for the screws? yes, some of us lead very sheltered lives where 'hand tightening' is insufficient Saw in a scope mounting video that bases should be torqued to 30 inch pounds and a rail is a base in my view. Used some blue thread lock too. I was surprised to see how easy the OEM rail was to remove as well. Edited September 24, 2010 by BigHat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super33 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Kip, could you come up with an estimate of the release of the charging handles? Not trying to be a pain but I've been holding out for one and I've got to get something relatively soon. I'll be honest, some of it is me being impatient for your quality parts but my funds are gonna be running real low soon and I'm under pressure to complete my M4 while the resources are still here. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AggiePhil Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Mine shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cleefurd Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 (edited) Anybody got any ideas on the torque specs for the screws? The torque values shown are only for steel fasteners and threads. If using steel screws in aluminum use the lowest value in the torque guide minus 10%. In the case of the M4 with it's hard anodized threads I suggest the #8 "min value" minus 10% shown in red below; #2 Screws: 2.5 to 3.0 in-lbs #4 Screws: 5.0 to 5.5 in-lbs #6 Screws: 8.0 to 10.0 in-lbs #8 Screws: 18.0 to 21.0 in-lbs Without torque wrench: For #2 and #4 Screws use only two fingers to turn the driver until tight. Without torque wrench: For #6 and #8 Screws tighten until comfortably snug. Don't worry about encountering barrel fitment issues with our mount if you don't have a torque wrench. The contour of the base-to-receiver is spot on and will not distort the receiver if overtightened or affect easy barrel install/removal as encountered in the past with some other aftermarket rails. The main reason to avoid overtightening is to prevent stripping the receiver's threads. As long as you don't lose the O.E.M. serrated convex lock-washers the use of loc-tite may be considered optional, just make sure you don't re-install them upside down. Edit; These torque values are 'safe' starting points. The member's example of 30 in-lbs represents a safe value for applications where all fastener and host strengths are known to be compatible... perhaps steel on steel etc. It is likely that the M4's receiver threads will handle 30 in-lbs without blinking providing they are in good shape to start with. Proceed w/ caution. Edited September 25, 2010 by cleefurd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cleefurd Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Kip, could you come up with an estimate of the release of the charging handles? Thanks PM sent. Progress report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unobtanium Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Be sure you have enough for the "Carbon Offset" price. Carbon Offset? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalKoala Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Carbon Offset? What you will be paying for carbon emissions when cap and trade passes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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