Jump to content

Carrier Comp Just Listed M4 Picatinny Rails on Website


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

YES!!! This came JUST in time for me as I almost had to buy a Sidearmor rail and side saddle that I didn't really want. I'm anal about weight savings and don't want a heavy side saddle that I don't need. But their rail only has this huge overhanging part that will get in the way of a velcro side saddle, which is my preference in lightweight side saddles. So they basically force you to get the whole meal deal if you want any side saddle at all. But with Kip's new rail, you can get just the rail, throw a 3GunGear velcro side saddle on their (quality kit BTW), and you're GTG! Thanks Kip! I'll be calling you today to buy this rail and have it added to my order for the titanium mag tube that I ordered two weeks ago. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the stock rail really that bad ?


IMHO it's the groove down the middle that will determine if it works for you or not. If you have an optic or mount with bars all the way across that fully engages the rail key (like an Eotech) I think it is OK.


The definite problem is with mounts that are also keyed or grooved in some way (the LaRue only has small ears that engage the rail groove). Such that there is not a complete horizontal bearing surface. In this situation you end up with only minimal contact between the mount and the rail. There are pictures posted of the LaRue mount that clearly show that only a tiny corner of the mount key bears against the corner of the Benelli rail. This situation clearly calls for a non-grooved rail to ensure full engagement of the mount keys in the groove.


I have an Eotech and the cross screw bears fully on the Benelli rail keys and I don't worry about it. I'm buying the rail in case I want to try other optics with the gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow - that relaly sucks for a 1400$ shotgun.


Yes, but it's the only mechanically weak link on the weapon really. Everything has a mechanical weak-spot. Everything. The M4S90 just has VERY FEW (one?) and an ergonomic weakpoint (long stock). Both the rail and stock are fixable with a minimal of cash/effort.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anybody got any ideas on the torque specs for the screws? yes, some of us lead very sheltered lives where 'hand tightening' is insufficient


Saw in a scope mounting video that bases should be torqued to 30 inch pounds and a rail is a base in my view. Used some blue thread lock too.


I was surprised to see how easy the OEM rail was to remove as well.

Edited by BigHat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kip, could you come up with an estimate of the release of the charging handles? Not trying to be a pain but I've been holding out for one and I've got to get something relatively soon. I'll be honest, some of it is me being impatient for your quality parts but my funds are gonna be running real low soon and I'm under pressure to complete my M4 while the resources are still here. Thanks :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest cleefurd
Anybody got any ideas on the torque specs for the screws?


The torque values shown are only for steel fasteners and threads. If using steel screws in aluminum use the lowest value in the torque guide minus 10%. In the case of the M4 with it's hard anodized threads I suggest the #8 "min value" minus 10% shown in red below;




#2 Screws: 2.5 to 3.0 in-lbs

#4 Screws: 5.0 to 5.5 in-lbs

#6 Screws: 8.0 to 10.0 in-lbs

#8 Screws: 18.0 to 21.0 in-lbs


Without torque wrench: For #2 and #4 Screws use only two fingers to turn the driver until tight.

Without torque wrench: For #6 and #8 Screws tighten until comfortably snug.


Don't worry about encountering barrel fitment issues with our mount if you don't have a torque wrench. The contour of the base-to-receiver is spot on and will not distort the receiver if overtightened or affect easy barrel install/removal as encountered in the past with some other aftermarket rails. The main reason to avoid overtightening is to prevent stripping the receiver's threads. As long as you don't lose the O.E.M. serrated convex lock-washers the use of loc-tite may be considered optional, just make sure you don't re-install them upside down.


Edit; These torque values are 'safe' starting points. The member's example of 30 in-lbs represents a safe value for applications where all fastener and host strengths are known to be compatible... perhaps steel on steel etc. It is likely that the M4's receiver threads will handle 30 in-lbs without blinking providing they are in good shape to start with. Proceed w/ caution.

Edited by cleefurd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...