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Anyone Install Kip's M4 Hammer Yet?


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So I had my trigger assembly out over the weekend and was eyeballing the snap ring on the end of the hammer pivot. I noticed its the kind that do not have any holes at each end for snap ring pliers to seat into. So what's the best way to take that off? And does it compress or expand to remove? I'm assuming expand??

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Benelliwerks thread with pictures.


However, my M4 trigger group is a little different than benelliwerks. My unit does not have a d-ring. It has a snap ring with prongs on it that face towards the front of the trigger group. Set your snap ring pliers so they expand when squeezed. My pliers from Ace Hardware just barely fit between the prongs.


The instructions say this for snap ring plier size requirements:

Using external snap ring pliers (Blackhawk model PT-1285 0.038

inch diameter tip, McMaster Carr PN 5415A11, or equivalent),

remove the snap ring. Be careful to positively control the snap ring

so that it does not get lost. DO NOT attempt to pry the snap ring off

with a screwdriver; doing this will damage the thin-walled hammer

pivot pin.

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I had the snap ring with hooks rather than holes, and I did not have the appropriate snap ring pliers. Still, I managed to get the snap ring off with another snap-ring plier set (replaceable prongs, ugh ...) and replace the hammer. Getting it back on was a much more challenging project. I got it back on, but I'd like to rotate it so both ends fall into the channel flats. One is in, and one is slightly out. Without the apprpriate snap ring pliers, I'm not able to open the ring enough to rotate it. I'm confident that it won't slip when fired, but I'd still like to get it turned properly.


No range report. Haven't gotten it out to shoot. Will do so this weekend.

Edited by LeoAtrox
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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Regardless of the M group trigger series (M1, M2, M4) except for the removal of the hammer pivot pin being retained by a "D" ring or an external snap ring, the sequence is always the same. If there is a "trick" it is just pushing the hammer pivot pin to the right only enough to liberate the hammer; if you push it too far to the right the carrier and carrier latch will get out of alignment due to the bolt latch spring / plunger tension on the left side off-setting the alignment. It is a very easy substitution if you take your time and carefully manipulate the parts. Safety glasses are standard operating procedure for these maneuvers.


Edited by benelliwerkes
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Nice pictures Benelliwerks. I like your snap ring pliers. They look much more stable than the cheap set I have. This job was easier to do than I had expected. I followed Benelliwerks advice about how far to move the cam pin. It'll save you some reassembly trouble.



Benelliwerks modified tools are always the best too. I'd buy some of his creations if he sold them.

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The stronger snap ring pliers are burdened by not allowing the tips to be positioned as close as needed to insert into the stout small snap ring; the smaller sized snap ring pliers allow the tips to be close but their diameters are small and almost too fragile to expand this particular ring.


So, the snap ring tips were modified; each placed in a drill press and turned with a file, reducing the radius to match that of the snap ring engagement and it allowed the tips to be closely apposed for insertion into the ring. Only took a minute or so to do and prevents slipping of the tips and marring of the gun art.


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Wow...who dusted this thing off? It's pretty straight forward. Good set of snap ring pliers and follow the instructions. I can't remember if I got my pliers at Home Depot or Sears but they came with multiple tips. Work great. It's worth the drive for the right tool on this one.


Good luck!

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