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Finally an easier solution for adding a Limbsaver to the Benelli M4 is available. This is significantly easier and requires fewer parts in the past assemblies of the 10111 model that required the Noveske adapter plate that is no longer sold. For this assembly we'll be using the Limbsaver 10403. This model has a raised lip on the inside of the buttpad that helps center the pad on the stock. First step is to remove the collapsible stock from your shotgun. You will then need to remove the factory buttpad by using a philips screw driver and inserting it in to the two small holes on the factory buttpad. Use a little oil or spit on the driver to help push it in. Push the driver in firmly as you unscrew the fasteners. Pull the buttpad away from the stock as you unscrew it. The screws will remain captive inside of the buttpad. Not the large hole roughly in the center of the stock. This is where the receiver extension passes thru the stock and in to the buttpad when the stock is in the fully collapsed position. The next step is to fit your buttpad to the stock. I had to purchase screws from the hardware store to make this buttpad work for this application. I used M4 machine screws, 0.7 thread pitch, 16mm in length. You will need two of them. The ones I bought use a 2.5mm allen head driver. Press the screws in to the Limbsaver buttpad through the two holes in the rubber. Use your driver to press since it will have to push past the rubber. They will snap in to place once seated. You'll see the threads sticking out of the bottom of the buttpad. Screw the buttpad on to the stock. Note the two holes top and bottom for accessing the screws. Now we need to make a hole in the plastic base of the buttpad for the receiver extension to pass in to. Now that you have the pad attached to the stock, you'll want to get a Sharpie marker with the cap off and drop it down the hole of the collapsible stock where the receiver extension goes. I use a silver one since it makes it easier to see the marks. I shake the stock around a little to get the marker to give me a witness mark as to where I am going to drill. Now remove the buttpad from the stock and check your witness marks. You should have something like this. You now know roughly where you need to drill your 7/8" hole. Rather than trying to bore that big of a hole in one pass, you'll have better luck starting small and moving up. I start with a 1/4" Forester bit and drill it out on a drill press. You do not want to drill all the way through the buttpad. You only want to drill through the plastic back which will open up to a void inside the buttpad. I suppose you could drill this out with a electric drill, but your quality of work is likely going to suffer. First hole is drilled. Take the pad and offer it back up to the stock. Look down the hole where the receiver extension goes down with a flash light and see how close to center your hole is to the hole you're looking down. I see that I'm a little off center to the right of the screen. No problem. Move to the next size up bit 3/8" and try to correct for the alignment. Continue through the 1/2, 5/8 and finally the 7/8 bit. Here is the end results. Clean out all the plastic debris from inside the buttpad and clean up the edges. I use a deburring tool but you don't have to get that fancy. Offer the buttpad up to the stock again and check to see if you can see the sides of the buttpad through the hole. You should be looking straight in to the hole drilled. If an edge is present, it will liely contact the receiver extension and prevent it from collapsing. You can hog out the hole slightly with no ill effects on performance. Finally offer up the stock with the buttpad screwed in place to the shotgun and see if the stock fully collapses. If it hangs up, you need to remove the offending area. If it fits, finalize the installation by applying some blue Loctite 243 to the screws then snug them up. No retard strength is needed. These threaded holes will strip easily if you muscle it. Use your fingers to hole the buttpad in alignment to the stock as you tighten it. There is a small amount of wiggle room in the pad that will allow you to even out the alignment. Make sure everything still fits after you've tightened the screws. The rubber of the Limbsaver will often times have a dried out look to it. You can rub some lubricant on the rubber with a rag and it will return it to a deep black finish. Limbsaver claims you'll see a 70% reduction in perceived recoil with these pads. That figure is a little optimistic. Realistically I'd say you'll see a 40% reduction.

Does anyone know is ASGARD still makes the side saddles for the M4? Does anyone have one for sale?

It is really just an extended and ported choke tube with wicked looking teeth on the end. The “no slugs” comes from it being an “Extra Full” constriction. Carlson also marketed a Cylinder constriction tube in the same style that was OK with any shell type. Both are showing "out of stock" at Brownells and Carlsons

Wow! If you run outta ammo, you could use it as a bayonet.

You let a great model go (11707) . The 11707 has the recoil tube that will accept the collapsible stock and function properly. Also has the thread barrel for interchangeable chokes. This is the model I have also. hope you find what you are looking for.

Tell them next time to strand you some place nice like Thailand!

MRO is better but it’s not really a micro sight. Two different animals. I went Holosun 570 and love it. Ideally I want as big a lens that’s rugged enough I can get. I don’t think the SRO is in any way weak either. Imho a pistol slide likely puts more stress on these things than a heavy long gun.

Mikey D - I have the speed bar from Dave's Metal Works. I actually bought it from Redneck Tactical which still cracks me up today. It's a "precision" bent piece of metal that is redneck genius. Kind'a like your wife using your trolling motor to dice-up a bucket full of crawdads to make gumbo! It works.... . The biggest draaawback is it is held in place by the right forearm piece and will fall free when you begin to disassemble the gun. In other words, it's easy to lose. I tried to lose it many times but the metal clang when it fell on the floor alerted me to go looking for it. Having said that, it worked and served me very well for years before recently swapping it out for a GG&G assembly with oversized bolt release pad/button. I did that after my OEM shellstop/bolt release broke. It works.

Attached excel spreadsheet reflect the weights I've compiled for accessories that I have installed, had installed and have been contemplating. The reduction column shows items I've added or swapped out on my M4. The biggest weight gain is the addition of a Scout light and the biggest savings was replacing the Mesa side saddle shell holder w/ a velcro Vang Comp system and swapping out the Nordic 7 round tube with a CC tube. Your actual weight savings may vary! Hope this helps! M4 Accessory Weights.xlsx

I said the same thing for half a decade until I finally did it. My advice is to never handle one, then. I'd personally go 11707, dump the barrel, buy an 11701 barrel from Numrich, and call it a day. I refuse to own guns eith choke tubes.