Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
Benelli Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by timb99

  1. I would NEVER have a gun barrel ported. NEVER. Its an absolute waste of money. Reasons: 1. It cannot appreciably help recoil, despite what the advertisements all say. 2. In a duck blind, your fellow duck hunting mates won't appreciate the extra noise, and the occasional hot pieces of wad that come flying out of the ports. What bigkuntry72 said is true. Except its not a Wisconsin law, its a Federal law. Migratory birds, no more than one in the chamber, and two in the mag, and it has to be plugged, so you physically cannot put more than two in the mag. No accounting for the honor system. Mag tube does you no good here. Another reason not to add that mag extension is weight. If you load up 6 or 8 shells in your mag, your nice, light Nova just became a heavy lump you have to carry out in the field. And really, how often do you think you're going to need more than 2 or 3 shots? For hunting, 2 or 3 shots is all you're likely to need anyway. You'll be much better off getting acquainted with your gun by learning to shoot it, than any of those modifications will do for you. Spend your money on shooting clay targets, and taking a wing-shooting lesson from a reputable instructor, someone with an NSCA certification.
  2. To Snap Cap, or Not??? (this is a copy and paste from a post I made a while back.) I asked my buddy to weigh in on this subject a while back. He has a Master's Degree in Mechanical Engineering, specializing in machine design and strength of materials. Alas, I have only a Bachelors Degree in Mechanical Engineering, so obviously, he's smarter than me. His answer? It depends. It depends on the material and the level of stress seen in the sprung (cocked position) and the unsprung (hammer down) position. Metals used for springs DO INDEED take a set, that is, if kept in a stressed condition for long periods of time, the metal will actually "creep" (and yes, that really is an engineering term.) Which is why your hammer springs get shorter over time, because regardless of whether the hammer is cocked or uncocked, the hammer spring is under stress. Its just under higher stress when its cocked. However, cycles (each time you take a shot) will fatigue a spring as well. And in the case of someone who shoots 5,000 targets a year, spring fatigue due to cycles may indeed be the governing cause of spring weakening, and not creep due to storing it in a stressed position. So, for guns used occasionally, like hunting guns, snap caps may indeed extend the life of the hammer spring. On the other hand, for guns that are used regularly, like competitive trap guns, chances are that using a snap cap may be of limited benefit. Will a snap cap harm anything? Oh, probably not. Do you NEED them? Oh, probably not. I use my snap caps for practicing mounting my gun and improving my swing to the target in my basement. As with all things...your mileage may vary. Probably the right answer is, if you shoot A LOT with your guns, you should replace your hammer springs periodically. If you DO use snap caps before you store your guns, make doggone sure its really a snap cap and not a live round!
  3. stoegerhunter, What I say, is its the Indian, not the arrow. Great shooting! I wouldn't change a thing. Hope you can get it fixed. Keep it up!
  4. I started shooting trap with an 1100, which is virtually the same as an 1187. Just my opinion, but: Trap - Trap model with 30" fixed full choke step-rib barrel and Monte Carlo stock. Skeet - Skeet model with 26" fixed skeet choke flat-rib barrel. Sporting Clays - I don't normally shoot sport with one of these guns, but Remington has several sporting clays models. All things considered, a 28" field model with choke tubes would be a good choice as a starter gun for sporting clays.
  5. I made that statement on the basis of shooting strictly clay target sports, since the original question was a semi-auto shotgun for clays. The Beretta and Remington guns I quoted have a long history of being excellent semi-auto guns to use for these sports. Both offer recoil reduction and reliability. Reliability-wise, the Beretta probably tops the Remington, however, the Remington gets the "ease of repair, and parts availability" advantage. Its like a Ford Taurus. There's literally millions of them, and just about any gunsmith can fix them, and they're so simple, you can fix most problems yourself in minutes. Cleaning? They're both a pain in the neck to clean, and they both need cleaning often. About every 400 shots or so. Handling different loads? Generally speaking, both will handle the normal range of target loads, if you get a target model. And if it is a gun for clays, you won't be shooting goose loads through them anyway. They're both heavy, and both offer gas operation which reduces recoil. When you shoot targets, you shoot light loads, but you shoot a lot of them. Recoil is cumulative. Weight helps recoil, and it helps smooth out your move to the target, which is a good thing when you are shooting clays. Bottom line, they are both "tried and true" clay target guns.
  6. Yes. And sometimes a pump. I have several guns I like, and I spread it around. Ithaca Model 37 pump in 16 gauge Savage Stevens Model 311B SxS in 20 gauge Stoeger Condor O/U in 12 gauge Mossberg 500 pump in 12 gauge CZ 712 in semi-auto 12 gauge Remington LT1100 semi-auto in 20 gauge I have bagged gaggles of pheasants with all of them except the CZ, which I will use when I get back to the USA.
  7. Maybe the Super Sport and the Vinci are the wave of things to come. I don't know. Here's what is really, really important, and you can take this to the bank. Whatever you choose, find a gun that fits you well, feels good in your hands, and shoots where you are pointing. Gun fit is the key. Most of the reputable brand-name guns will take care of you if you take care of them.
  8. aha...my bad Savage Stevens Model 311B 20 gauge SxS (similar to the Fox guns) Remington 1100LT 20 gauge Stoeger Condor 12 gauge with 20 gauge or 28 gauge chamber inserts.
  9. Best quail gun? That's like asking, "what's the best car?" Answer: The one that fits you best, mounts smooth, isn't too heavy to carry, and shoots where you are pointing.
  10. timb99

    Pheasant Hunting

    You can probably get away with hunting early season pheasants, or pen-raised pheasants, close, over dogs, with 7-1/2 shot. But go to South Dakota in December or January, you'd better bring your 4's or 5's. Like TMAC said, early season, late season, 5's always work. I wouldn't use anything smaller than 6's where I hunt (Kansas, Nebraska, South Dakota.)
  11. timb99

    Pheasant Hunting

    Any of the major manufacturer's pheasant loads in number 6 should work nicely. Fiocchi, Winchester, Remington, and Federal all have excellent pheasant loads.
  12. If you want a gun with a soft recoil, the Beretta 391 or the Remington 1100 are better choices than the Benelli. The Benelli is a great gun, but on the recoil scale, its worse than the two I mention. Other advice here is spot on. Gun fit is one of the most critical, and least considered things, when looking for guns for "other people." Especially wives. Oh, and here's a hint. LET HER PICK THE GUN! You might have the most altruistic intentions, but if SHE doesn't have a say in the choice of HER gun, you might as well get her a crowbar.
  13. Can't answer on the Super Sport question, but here's a place for a rib to add onto your existing rib. http://www.keensights.com/ These guys will take your old rib off and put a new adjustable on. http://www.moneymakerguncraft.com/ http://www.simmonsguns.com/
  14. Are you talking about the forearm, and if so, are you rotating the thumb latch towards muzzle end, then rotating the forearm downward away from barrels?
  15. Drew


    Instructions on the way to you



  16. Good advice from Tucker Not sure how much help you'll get from QU. They're bankrupt. You might try Quail Forever, which is an offshoot of Pheasants Forever.
  17. 12 gauge or 20 gauge? In either case, are you looking for cheap, or best? Best is Remington STS or Nitro, Federal Gold Medal, Winchester AA, and there are a few others. Less costly, and good enough for most games (until you get to be shooting 60 yard crossers on the sport field, or 27 yard handicap on the trap field) are Remington Gun Club, Winchester Super Target, and Federal Top Gun, among others. I reload my own, but if you look, you can find similar loads. Generally speaking (for 12 gauge): For skeet I use 1 ounce of 9 shot at 1150 fps. For trap singles and doubles, I use 1 ounce of 8-1/2 or 8 shot at 1150 fps. For trap handicap and for sporting clays, I use 1-1/8 ounces of 7-1/2 shot at 1200 fps.
  18. Katherine Heigl is in it. She can't act, but she's ok to look at.
  19. timb99

    Trigger Work

    Featherman Trigger are a finesse thing. They're tricky. If you do it wrong with a semi-auto, you can get a gun that slam-fires or you turn it into a full auto, neither of which is desirable. If this is a gun to be used in the field, you want to make sure your trigger pull is crisp, but not too light. I have the trigger pull on my target guns set at 3.5 to 3.75 lbs, but I wouldn't want a field gun any less than say 4.5 or 5 lbs. There are many good gunsmiths around who do this kind of work, but it is best to call around and find someone who specializes in Benellis. As Tucker mentioned, Briley does good work, but sometimes they take a long time to get stuff back to you. Doug Braker in Minnesota is top notch. dougsgunsmithshop.com A guy named Dave Munden did an 1100 trigger for my daughter's trap gun, but I don't know if he does Benelli guns: [email protected] Spears Gun Shop in Kansas Allen Timney timneytriggers.com There are others. Good luck.
  20. timb99

    Trigger Work

    Sending it to someone who specializes in trigger work. Unless you KNOW what you're doing, trigger work is best left to someone else. But if you do have it worked on, I suspect your Benelli warranty is void.
  21. Actually, no, but I'm glad I got it right
  22. With the gun ESTABLISHED UNLOADED, close the bolt. Then take a bore cleaning rod, and stick it into the muzzle of the gun, all the way down until it bottoms out at the bolt face. Mark the rod at the muzzle end. Pull the rod out and measure from the end you stuck in, to the mark you made. That's your barrel length. This method works for any kind of gun.
  23. That's the old "rule of thumb" but its not very accurate, and its not what stock fitters use to measure proper LOP. The one that stock fitters use is to have you mount the gun normally, and see how much distance there is between the back of your thumb and the tip of your nose. This should be about 1 to 1-1/4 inches. Less than that, and the LOP is too short for you. More, and the LOP is too long for you.
  24. Its all personal preference. No right answer on beads. I like a plain white Bradley bead on my target shooting guns. Most of my hunting guns have just a plain silver bead or a brass bead. I got a gun last fall that had an add-on lightpipe, not sure what brand. Gave it a try last hunting pheasants, and it was OK. Honestly, for stuff like this, its whatever you like best.
  • Create New...