timb99

No, I don't. You might just call Browning.

I'm guessing the "70" is the chamber length in millimeters (2-3/4 inch)

It's still breaking the law. a.k.a. Poaching.

A friend of mine shoots a supersport for sporting clays (he's master class) and if I recall correctly, he shoots 7/8 ounce loads at about 1300 fps.

What novaking said. On the barrel length for your supernova, shoulder both barrel lengths at your local store, and go with what feels best.

"With that being said....what am I looking for in a good skeet/trap barrel? High vent rib...twin beads.....etc? Which Remington barrel would be ideal?" There's the rub. You're talking about two different games. There are a couple of ways to approach this. Get two different barrels, one for trap, one for skeet. or Get one barrel and try to meet in the middle. Unless you're really into one or the other, (that is, you just shoot skeet and trap for fun, and not in competition) you can probably do fine with one barrel and some choke tubes. Trap is a game where the target is always going away from you, and you should be shooting it when the target is rising. There's also not much swinging the gun to do (but some.) As such a long barrel and a stock/comb set up to shoot a little high is to your benefit. Many trap shooters use a 30" barrel on an 1100. A "trap" barrel is step-ribbed (much higher rib in back than front) and has a little lug on the ejection area so the spent hull doesn't fly over and hit the guy next to you. Skeet is a game where the target is fairly flat, and may be coming towards you, going away from you, or crossing at right angles to you.. There's a lot of swinging the gun. As shorter barrel and a stock/comb set up to shoot a fairly flat is to your benefit. Skeet shooters often use a 26" barrel on an 1100. Now, the "in between one barrel for all." I would get a 28" barrel. You can get a mid-rib bead if you want. Choke tubes. This will shoot fairly flat unless you do something to raise the comb on your stock. But unless you plan to shoot trap competition, this will be OK. You'll have to point higher and "cover the bird" as its going away from you. And since it'll shoot flat, it'll be fine for skeet too. Get a modified or improved modified choke tube to shoot trap. Get a skeet choke tube to shoot skeet. BTW, that full choke 30" barrel you already have would be OK for trap. Good luck! Have fun! Be safe! Tim

If you're sure you want to get the original barrel threaded, absolutely, positively, have it done by someone who does this kind of work on a day to day basis. I recommend either Carlson's in Atwood, KS, Briley's in Houston. These guys can also add a mid-rib bead for you, at very little cost. Make sure you tell them you want it threaded for Remington chokes. I would not trust a barrel to anyone else. The ONLY thing a mid-rib bead does for you is to allow you to make sure your gun mount is good and your barrel is lined up with your eye. Once you call for the target, you'd better have both eyes on the target or the result will be a miss. Some folks like hi-viz sights, some like a white Bradley bead (I'm one of them), and some folks black out their bead with a magic marker, or just take them off completely. Its a personal preference thing.

My recommendations for what its worth. The 1100 is a very versatile gun, and can be used for all the games. Just changing the barrel and stock makes this gun suitable for multiple purposes. Barrels are fairly easy to find on sites like gunbroker.com. For trap, I'd recommend a 30" trap barrel. And, if you want, you can put a trap stock on it with a monte-carlo comb, to raise the point of impact a little. For skeet and sporting clays, see if you can find a 26" field barrel with choke tubes. Use a skeet tube for skeet, and depending on how the sporting clays course is set up, you'd have to decide what choke to use for that. IM and modified are usually good choices. And you can leave the original field stock on for these games. A 28" barrel would work OK too. Keep the original barrel original. At least, I would. BTW, a fixed full choke works fiune for trap.

That's a darned good average Jorge. I'm at just over 95 this season in ATA shooting. I shot a 97 on Saturday.

I always recommend a Remington 1187 Sportsman youth model as a good starter gun. Short barrel, short stock, and very, very light on recoil. DO NOT get one of those single shot hammer guns. They're responsible for a lot of kids never wanting to shoot another shotgun for the rest of their lives. For young kids, recoil is an absolute fun-killer. Also, try to find a way for her to break some exceptionally easy targets. Miss after miss after miss is also a major fun-killer. Just pulling the trigger and going bang doesn't stay fun for very long. They need to see targets break, otherwise, they'll never come back. If you can find someone with a remote control target thrower, and land to use it on, a target that is thrown towards them, and kind of hovers for a brief moment just 15 or 20 feet above and in front of the shooter, is a great way to get started. The 1187 is not cheap, and is difficult to find "used." But, even if you buy it for her and she decides that the shooting sports is not her thing, you won't lose a bunch of money on it. Their resale is pretty good. Also, if she grows out of this gun, you can put an adult stock and a standard length barrel on it. This gun, if cared for, will still be working when she has kids. Now, that being said, unless she is a physically big girl, AND exceptionally responsible and bright, I believe 9 is a little young for shotgun sports. I started my daughter at age 11. That was early enough for her. Any younger thatn that, and as a father, I don't believe she would have been ready. You'll have to assess that for yourself. Listen to them. If they want to stop, accept that and move on. DON'T PUSH! Good luck

Good advice from Big Hat.

You first have to post the photos on a photo hosting website like photobucket or snapfish. Then you have to use the proper code in your message. I think its: Where value is the link to the photo. For example: This used the code where the "value" was: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b265/timb99/Condor%20Disassembly/PICT0016.jpg

True on many, but the 1100/1187 piston ring set will travel 2-3 inches back and forth between the end of the cylinder (barrel hanger) and the action sleeve. Not sure about this Franchi unit. I've never seen one.

Most often with gas guns, the issue of not cycling is one of cleanliness. Clean everything well, including making sure the ports in the barrel are not plugged (use a tiny drill bit and your fingers! not a drill motor), piston rings and cylinder surfaces are all clean, and making sure the action return spring is clean, and put it back together. On my gas guns I have found that a light coating of Break-Free CLP on all the parts that will "get gassed" keeps things operating smoothly and makes it oh so much easier to clean. Most folks who shoot Remington 1100's and 1187's competitively do this, even though Remington recommends keeping everything dry. To some degree, gas guns are gas guns. They all have similar operating systems, and if you're mechanically inclined, they're really no mystery. As Tucker said, MAKE SURE you note the way things are oriented before you take it apart! Take digital photos at each disassembly step, because sometimes, memory fails. Oh, and check the condition of the o-ring if it has one (many do, but not all.) If the o-ring is broken or even frayed, it may not be holding its seal, and that may be the problem, or part of the problem. Good luck, Tim

Depends on what you're using the gun for. There are many brands and many styles within those brands. KickEez, Limbsaver, Gooey, Pachmayr Then within that you have concave, convex, sporting clays, etc. etc. What will you use the guns for?

Looks good trapshooter1 If you want a good diagram of the dimensions, go to http://www.shootata.com On the menu on the left, click "About the ATA" The there's a link to the "ATA rule book and by-laws," then a link to "View the Rolebook" Its a pdf file of the entire rule book. Go to pages 56 and 57 and there is a layout of the field. I'm always amazed at how narrow the target angles are on paper, and how wide they "seem" when I'm shooting a hard right from station 5. Oh, and the NRA says to account for a 300 yard shot fall distance. I don't think 7-1/2's really fly that far, but its a bad thing if your shot is pelting your neighbor's barn.

You can approximate ATA targets by marking a point 10 yards out from the machine, and another one 50 yards out from the machine (at the club we take the measurements pretty closely, and use a transit and get the angles precise, but for a home field, you don't have to be that precise.) At the 10 yard marker, the target is supposed to be between 8 feet and 10 feet above the level of the release of the machine (essentially the plate where the target flies from.) We use a t-bar made out of 3 inch PVC pipe. Remember, its 8 - 10 feet above the level of the target thrower plate, not the base of the machine. And the level of the target thrower plate is supposed to be level with the ground where you stand at the stations. (Note, this makes it so the machine is actually in a bit of a hole in the ground.) Of course, for a home field, you don't have to be that precise. The target is supposed to land 50 yards (on level ground) from the machine. That should pretty closely approximate the speed of an ATA target. If you can get your hands on a radar gun (most clubs have one, as this is now the official measurement method) the target should be going 42 mph.

Not remarkable. I do that in one day at any ATA shoot I go to with my O/U. 100 singles, 100 handicap, 50 pair doubles. If a gun fits you, it won't punish you.

sich 1, In my opinion, a long shot string is undesirable, generally speaking. There used to be a prevailing wisdom that a long shot string could get you targets (or birds) on long crossing shots. Most folks who study the ballistics now say that a short shot string is almost always preferred to a long one. A short shot string has a denser pattern in all three dimensions. But the truth is, your statement, "no ordinary shooter will ever notice much difference" is probably true. I have killed a bunch of pheasants with a 20 gauge, so it can do the job, no doubt. Shoot them in the lips!

My ATA lifetime average is about 94.4% (about 23.6 per 25), but that includes some early years with very low averages when I first started. This doesn't include league and practice. My best year was 2006 where I finished with a 95.75% average (23.9 out of 25.) This season my average is 94.5% (97/100, 90/100 bummer, and 191/200.) My best single score ever was 198 out of 200 at the Kansas State Shoot a few years back. Broke a 23 on the first 25, then 175 straight. Didn't even win me anything. At the big shoots, you have to be perfect, and even then, you finish in a tie and have to shoot off to determine the champion. I like to think I'd be scoring better, but I just haven't been shooting as much as I had in the past. Less "disposable income" to spend on hobbies these days. "... I was at the state qualifying shoot and I was surprised how bad some of the teams were..." Are you shooting SCTP or AIM? If so, keep in mind these are kids who may have never picked up a shotgun for the first time until they joined their team. Don't be too harsh in your judgement of them. They're trying, and hopefully they're out there having fun. After all, this is still just a game, and having fun is what its all about. Bummer about the bike Vinchshooter. That sucks.

Well you may not be paying it, but it is not correct to say that you don't have to. You ARE supposed to, by law, voluntarily pay it. But there's currently no way of enforcing it.

In both cases, the 12 gauge will (according to many sources) throw a better pattern than the 20. Not sure I completely understand the physics, but the larger diameter barrel and the shorter height of the shot in the shot cup are factors.

Probably. When you get to 27, your success, or lack thereof, has more to do with you than the choke you choose. I've only gotten as far back as 25 in ATA (now at 24.)

Depending on who you get your chokes from, there's almost no difference between a light full and an improved modified. Kinda splitting hairs there.

I'd go with a modified choke for doubles and singles, and in handicap until about 22 yards, then an IM until you get back to about 25, then a full from 26 or 27. Just my opinion, and your mileage may vary.