tucker301

The matter has been discussed here infinitely. Look through the archives or search for SBEII difference.

"She" sure is cute .

Paid $1200 for LH SBEII three years ago. They're running about $200 more than that now. Send your gun back and let them look it over. They're a great company and they have always bent over backwards to please the customer.

Shot a bunch of 'em last year with low brass 8's, but they'd only been released a few hours

Synthetic stock solves one of your issues, but I'm not sure they make one that doesn't require care and maintenance on the working parts.

Tip: The Salesman at Dicks is not a gun expert. Last week, he was working the drive-thru at Mickey D's

I don't see it. Try again.

www.gunbroker.com www.auctionarms.com www.gunsamerica.com I would also suggest Craigslist, but they don't allow firearms. Prostitution is OK, but not the legal products which won and maintain this country's freedom.

You need smarter friends. Shoot the 3.5" shells without worry.

The R1 should never have been produced in wood, at least not the way it was. The stock is think and hollow. Thins hollow wood with grain running the long way isn't know for strength and durability. My first one cracked in its first day afield.

Another no from me. Mine isn't blued, however. It's black matte, which is more succeptible to the elements than is a blued finish. I've hunted rain, sleet, snow, and sunshine with no problems whatsoever. I do use a good quality synthetic CLP and I religiously care for the weapon.

I didn't realize the 2000 was wooden stocked. But at the price you paid, it's worth a try either way. As you said, they are a crapshoot. Two buddies have 'em. One has shot dove loads from day one and never had an issue. The other has shot nothing but the heavy stuff and it hangs up quite often.

Either will be fine. Just curious. Why not the Stoeger 2000 you already have?

That sounds like the best thing to do. Glad to see you're moving on.

HW, Yes, the item was in your cart. Therefore, without your specific session cookies, we could not view it. The last link (looks familiar) works fine . If you're having virus and malware issues, then you may want to run a utility called Autoruns from www.sysinternals.com. I have found it to be the absolute most effective tool for identifying viral/malicious softwares. It does require a bit of technical savvy.

Search these forums for "Smoothbore slugs".

Hogwild, the link doesn't work without the cookies from your computer. Let's go ahead and assume that Dale needs a standard walnut stock, since the synthetics are indeed ambidexterious. http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=953430&chrSuperSKU=&MC=

Yes, you are.

Take it easy there old man. On your dose of Viagra, that kind of excitement can kill you.

Mine looks the same way and always has. I don't think it's pitting, at least not with the usual bad connotations.

If history is a barometer of the future they will hype it up for several months and build a pent-up demand before it hits the shelves. Nothing sells faster and at a better price than something that's in short supply and in high demand.

You're welcome. If the trigger, sear, and hammer are all functioning properly, then it almost has to be a problem with either the firing pin or the headspace (the depth at which the shell rests in the chamber). Further diagrams in my cleaning guide show the proper assembly of the bolt group. Make sure that you have the firing pin inserted properly and that it clears the bolt face when depressed from the rear.

A picture is worth a thousand words

goofy forum won't let us post more than two pics Figure C shows the hammer in its fully forward position. From B position to C position, the hammer free-falls. The full function can be safely tested with the assembly as shown or with it fully removed from the receiver. No tension as shown in B indicates a broken hammer spring. If there is tension, but the hammer won't stay cocked, as in A, then the sear or hammer my be damaged. DO NOT load or hunt with this gun until you have determined that everything is functioning as it should be. More detailed parts diagrams can be viewed on the Benelli Italy website. http://www.benelli.it/index.asp?Lan=EN Click Support

Test the trigger assembly for proper function this way. Remove the barrel, forearm, and bolt group. Figure A shows the hammer in the cocked position. It is held in this spring-loaded state by the sear, which engages a notch on the backside of the hammer. If you hold your thumb against the hammer and pull the trigger (safety off), you will feel the spring driving it forward. Figure B shows the hammer in the relaxed/resting position. Movement in the direction of the arrow will compress the spring and you will feel resistence. Forward movement (opposite of the arrow) from this perpendicular position is free and loose. There is quite a bit of side to side play in the hammer as well. This is normal. continued in next post....