tucker301

Is the damage occuring with normal use, or does it get damaged when you're taking the pin out?

Looks good to me, bro

Something I've been meaning to do for some time. Here's a reference guide for the disassembly, cleaning, and re-assembly of the SBE/SBEII shotguns. It's not perfect, but hopefully it will help with the never-ending flood of newbie gun owners who come here looking for their backsides with their baseball mitt [/url]Click Here

After every outing would be best.

GONE!

Expires 10/3/2006, and I can't think of anything I haven't already bought PM me for the numbers. Don't ask for them unless you're sure you're going to use them.

OK. I guess they're all out trying to get better groups, lighter trigger pulls, etc. You'll find that the ARGO system fouls considerably and that it is a PITA to get clean. Tools and supplies: Powder solvent Copper solvent Oil (CLP, Hoppes Elite, or Benelli) Cleaning rod with jag and bronze brush Patches A cotton swab tip to match the chamber's diameter Clean rags Bore guide (optional, but suggested) Disassemble the rifle into these components: Detail You'll find the heaviest fouling on the piston and piston tube. Soaking these in a powder solvent while cleaning the rest of the gun would be suggested. Use a shallow plastic or aluminum tray. Further disassemble the barrel group, removing the bolt handle and bolt. Clean the barrel as you would any rifle barrel. Soak a patch with powder solvent and run it through. Run the brush through at least ten times. Run a clean patch or two through. Repeat the process using the copper solvent. Repeat until dry patches come through dry and clean. When finished cleaning the bore, run a lightly oiled patch through the barrel once. Use the lightly oiled cotton swab tip in the chamber and throat. Clean the bolt face using a toothbrush or small parts brush from your cleaning kit, making sure that you fully remove any brass build-up on the face and around the extractor. Inspect the bolt and face for wear and or damage. Now go back to your parts that have been soaking. Vigorously scrub the piston tube and piston with the brush and solvent, removing as much of the fouling as you can. Don't be too surprised if all of it doesn't come off, but get as much as you can. After cleaning, apply oil to the o-rings on the piston tube and to the rest of the parts and reassemble. You may notice fouling on the inside of the forearm as well. Clean it or ignore it. Fine either way. Remove the trigger group and brush or blow out any debris. Then lightly oil, wipe down and reassemble. NEVER leave parts oiled to the point that oil is dripping or running off them. This attracts dirt and will lead to failure and premature wear of parts. Wipe down all exterior surfaces and re-assemble the firearm. The Hoppes Elite makes the black synthetics look like new, so don't be afraid to use it on them. Just buff it out so it's not slippery. Check the action, saftey, and trigger for function. Store the gun in a safe and dry place. Use common sense when caring for the weapon. If you've been out in inclimate weather, then a more thorough disassembly and cleaning is warranted. Don't slip the gun into a case or sleeve while it's cold or wet and just leave it there. Don't put in display over the mantle in Montana and ignore it for 6 months. Check your scope mounts periodically and clean your scope per the manufacturer's instructions. If you're traveling or in a camp, I'd suggest at least taking a bottle of Hoppes Elite Field Cleaner and a bore snake. I'm sure I've probably left out something vastly important, but it's like trying to explain to someone how to ride a bike, just sitting here typing out the words. Perhaps I should make a Benelli cleaning and care video [ 09-27-2006, 09:00 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Yes, if there is exposed metal, it should be protected by a light application of oil. No solvents. Camo finsihes are applied through a dipping process. I would suggest fully removing the factory finish and then applying a new one, but I supposed it could be done either way.

I have noticed my Primos tubes have loosened after firing. Now, I'm in the habit of giving them a quick check while awaiting the next flight. Steel and Hevi-shot are fine through them. [ 09-27-2006, 08:04 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

I believe most have been shipped to Saturn

C'mon R1 owners. Help him out. I sold mine, and I said I wouldn't get into the reasons here

Do not apply any of those products to the camo finish. Clean the camo with a damp cloth and mild detergents.

Right Click - Save Target As

Yes

The first one is cool. The second one looks like it's from a horror movie or something.

I'll bet it shoots high and to the left

Not really. The SBEII is designed to facilitate changing the shell in the chamber quickly and easily. When the bolt is pulled back manually, the shell in the chamber will be ejected, but another shell will not be loaded from the magazine. Therefore, you can open the bolt, remove the shell, and drop in a goose shell quickly and easily. This can be circumvented by pressing the magazine release button on the trigger guard, allowing a shell to load onto the carrier. The one thing you have to watch for is to make sure that the bolt fully closes back on the goose shell. This is something that is commonly done wrong when trying to switch shells quietly and watch the approaching geese at the same time. If the bolt is not closed and rotated fully, the gun will not fire. You cannot make the bolt stay opened after a single shot unless you load a single shot. If there is another round in the magazine, and the gun is fired, the second round will be loaded. If you load one round, with no shells in the magazine, and fire one round, then bolt will stay opened after the shot is fired. [ 09-25-2006, 02:48 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

That grip will also fit the SBEII, but it does require a tiny bit of modification using common household tools. It will also leave a slight gap at the trigger guard. Here's my LH SBEII with said grip.

The SBEII safety is a very simple mechanism, comprised of a crossbolt, detent, and spring. I've never had issue with mine being stiff or noisy, but if I did I'd simply take the components down and find and fix the problem. It could be that the detent or the recesses in the crossbolt are rough, or it could be that a slightly shorter or slightly lighter spring would be in order. Either of which would be a very easy fix. Perhaps just a touch of lube in the right spot would be all that's needed. [ 09-24-2006, 03:31 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Sounds to me like all were within the confines of the law. Good Shooting!

Look for a magazine catch release near the trigger guard. The Benellis have them. Measure the chamber depth, but it's likely to be 2-3/4". A spent 3" shell should drop in to the rim if it's 3" chambered. A gunsmith can thread the bore to accept choke tubes.

Use them exclusively on waterfowl. Love them.

Did you buy from a dealer? Does he have any more M4's? Is it possible that they could give you a set from another weapon in stock and get the makeup set from Benelli? People. These dealers need to be held accountable for more than just taking our money and processing the paperwork. If there is a problem, TAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALER!

Try Impact Guns. Maybe they'll ship to you. http://www.impactguns.com/store/benelli_parts.html Also, in the US, slips are womens' undergarments. You either want a case or a sock.