tucker301
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Everything posted by tucker301
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For future reference, the parts manuals are available online in pdf format from the Benelli Italy website. http://www.benelli.it/Home.asp?Lan=EN Brownell's probably has them too.
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Sounds good. Let us know what comes of it.
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Take the gun (unloaded) back to Dicks and let them test it with dummy rounds.
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Here's a quote from a fellow on the Savage forums. His handle is hhmag, so that will tell you something. "Just put one of the Burris Signature Safaris on a buddy's 416 Rigby recently. Whole lotta scope for the money! I'm convinced they have the best glass in their price range, or even a few ranges higher. The eye relief was a bit over 4.25" and it's pretty long for what it is (low power scope). If you use the QD Loopies, use the post and lever style, not the QRW's, they will not hold up. The Nikon Lock stud bases are a little stronger. My preference is the good old Redfield style. The 2 piece Burris bases rock, and Millett has the strongest rings in this style. Add a Meyer works lever and lap in the front ring. Best RTZ of all qd's I've used yet. Dump the windage screw on the off side (the one you didn't replace with the lever) and use a stud, star washer and nylock nut. I have this exact setup on several rifles, including a 450 Rigby Magnum and the 416 spoken of earlier. My 470 Capstick A-Square Hannibal uses this setup and the scope is stored off rifle. I can pop it on in 2 seconds and be within 1/2" of my 75m zero every time (close enough for me with that rifle). To answer the Loopy question, I don't like them-never have. They are overrated and over priced. I have seen more Loopies fail in Africa on large medium and big bores than all other premium scopes combined. Front lenses flat out crack in the straight tube objective loopies on a regular basis, I have personally had three break on me ( one 1.24-4x20 and two 4x20s). There is much better for the money out there."
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- - It hit Florida last week
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That's a 981,750 grain load, in case you were wondering. Of course, with a ComforTech stock, it would feel more like only 950,000 grains
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Welcome! Does your gun shoot high, low, left, or right?
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If you're shooting low, you're sighting the shotgun too much like a rifle and not seeing any rib in the sight picture. You should see some rib and the target should be clearly and fully visible just above the front bead. In other words, if the target were a duck with his landing gear down, you should have the bead at the same level as his feet, with the bird fully visible above the barrel. If there's a mid bead, then the two beads should line up to make a figure 8, again with the target fully on top of the 8. This is so a shotgun can be pointed and fired while keeping both eyes opened and keeping the target fully in view. When shooting in this manner, changing the drop does affect the POI, but not so much when shooting from a bench. If you want to shoot turkeys or targets from a bench while sighting like a rifle, then you may need an adjustable optic.
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M2 is a good choice. if the money is not a big issue, cconsider the SBEII, even though you don't use 3.5". Reason being, it's a piece of cake to clean, due to the design of the integrated barrel/receiver top. Duck hunters get guns nasty, and it's no fun cleaning any gun, but the SBE and SBEII make it considerably easier. If money is a concern, you can still find NIB SBE's for pretty close to the cost of the M2.
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Who imposes the fine and what's the charge? The only thing I can think of would be trespassing.
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The bouncer loses his job, but keeps his life. The sign at the bar is a rule for the bar patrons and employees (unless the bouncer wishes to ask his employer for an exception), it is not a law and is therefore not prosecutable by the state. [ 05-24-2006, 10:17 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]
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Wow! A robin at 100 yards with an expensive pellet gun! You've got a lot to learn, kid. A helluva lot to learn.
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No. They are markedly different designs.
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I've got my R1 listed on gunbroker and gunsamerica. So, I've received a few genuine e-mails of interest, but I've also received several obvious bogus attempts to scam me out of my somewhat hard-earned cash. Today, Akeem wanted to buy the rifle. He wanted all of my contact information, so I told him to go first. Here's his reply: "Hello, thanks for the mail.i will like you to know that am okay with the price, and i want you to know that the payment is going to be inform of a money order and the total amount on it will be $4000 which you will deduct your's from and send the balance to my shipping company who will be coming to your location for the pick-up, so if this is okay with you i will like you to get back to me with the information of where the cheque is to be sent to and this is as follows. YOUR FULL NAME........... ADDRESS............ STATE................. ZIP CODE........... PHONE NUMBER(OFFICE,HOME)................. so i will be expecting your mail with this information and as soon as the cheque get's to you,you will send the balance to my shipping company shipper so i will be expecting your mail back Asap.thanks... BEST REGARDS......." 1. Does anyone actually fall for this crap? 2. Do you think Akeem would be a bit more successful if he'd bother to learn English first? I should take him up on his offer and box up this week's dirty shorts and let "his shipping company" pick them up Alas, I already e-mailed him back, and if he's doing what I suggested he do, he's contorted and in quite a bit of pain right now [ 05-22-2006, 01:55 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]
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I called customer service, and they don't make polo shirts in ash.
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What's a Limsaver? Where do I get one? How much are they? By what percentage do they reduce recoil? Can I still shoot light loads with a Limsaver?
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No, but I'm short, so I haven't been listening
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Fact is, T Reed, your information can be every bit as wrong as ours, depending on which version of the weapon an individual may have. Telling someone to heat the nuts can damage the nylon c-clip that I went to all that trouble to photograph - and you went to all that trouble to ignore. One of two things has happened here, and depending upon which it is, there are varying consequences. Scenario #1 - CS misunderstood you and thought you were talking about the light load cycle tube (part number 190G in your parts manual). In this case, they are, as they have been known to be before, mistaken, and your information can lead a Benelli owner towards damaging a small, cheap, and yet important part of their weapon. Scenario#2 - The Benellis were built using two different methods of securing the retaining nut. Results - see #1. The best advice I can offer to anyone is to check your gun and see if there is a black nylon C-clip like the one shown above. If there is, then there's no need to apply heat, because there's no loctite present. If you do feel compelled to apply heat, use a pan of boiling water, and do not use an open flame or any other source of dry heat which may melt something that you may have to wait three weeks for another to come over on the boat. My last bit of advice is that you, T Reed - a self-confessed newb, should perhaps consider more time lurking before passing yourself off as an authority on Benellis (even though CS told you so). mudhen's comments are very much tongue-in-cheek and they harken back to a post he made some time ago. If you search through his posts, I'm sure you'll find it. [ 05-22-2006, 01:33 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]
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never mind.... [ 05-22-2006, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]
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You can usually find them at any Benelli dealer, ebay. gunbroker, and just about anywhere you give two minutes effort. The bracket and reducer are going to hit you for around $90-$100.
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About the same as 7 cents rattling around in the right pocket of a pair of Levis.
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Len, Did I miss something? Where did he say it was a tactical?
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Disassemble the gun and clean the barrel and action. Become familiar with its operation by cycling and dry firing (no shells) it several times, then go shoot.
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You boys need to hurry up and end those auctions before folks figure out that they can get +2 extensions from surecycle for $90
