johnnywitt

I just want a factory full length tube for one of my two M4's. I bought 3 factory 2 shot extensions when you could still buy them. I didn't buy a full length tube.The factory extension tube is good though because you can switch back to normal capacity real quick.

Its just turns your shotgun into musket. They have tremendous stopping power up close though. It has been reported that they can kill you up close with soft body armor on. The accuracy of foster type slugs through a non rifled, or rifled choke barrel leaves something to be desired. They kick pretty hard too and if you use the low recoil stuff, buck or slug, your gonna get correspondingly low velocity and energy. I'm sold on OO and OOO full power 2.75" Mags with buffered copper plated shot and a IMP MOD or a MOD choke for 30-75yards and IMP CYL for less than 30. I WILL gets some hits on a fast moving target. I can't say this with slugs. Even the Federal Tru-Ball slugs which by all accounts is the best slug out there for a smoothbore tube.

No, it doesn't hurt blued guns at all. I know this because I have some S&W Ti cyl. and aluminum frame revolvers that you can't use the old Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth on. It will damage the finish. Everybody in the class 3 community is pretty much starting to use the SLIP 2000 EWL, which is their oil. There are no mixed reviews on this oil/lube. On the Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter (which is also marketed to shotgunners as choke tube cleaner, I believe) there ARE some mixed reviews. I saw it in "Small Arms Review" Magazine that I subscribe to. This Guy had an M4 Carbine bolt that he put in the Carbon Cutter and he let it sit and when he took it out, he just had to wipe off the carbon biuld up. I talked to some guys that said it works OK, but not THAT good. Again, this is the Carbon Cutter and not the EWL (extreme weapons lubricant). I was one of the guys using the Militec-1 back in about 96-97' I believe. I'm always looking for better safer products that work. I shoot a lot and I hate cleaning damn weapons all the time. The SLIP products are non petroleum based and are supposedly biodegradable and (I Think) non toxic. I have little kids now, so the whole non toxic thing sounds good to me. Anyhow, I'm going to try it out and I'll let you guy's know how I like it.

Unless your wearing body armor. As a stock gets shorter you get less drop and the gun will shoot higher, till you get to the point that you can't even see down the gun rib and are just looking over the gun. That second notch is for midgets and normal guy's wearing body armor. Nothing against midgets. I'm sure they like to shoot too.

I guess I'll have to get off my lazy a$$ and measure the new "longer" 35" springs against the stock 11707 springs. I just got 2 of the "longer springs" from Numrich/egunparts.com. I hope I didn't get hosed. Actually, I like to have back up springs for my mags and pretty much everthing I own. This is why I can't ever find anything.

Try a Burris Fastfire. They are super light (like .9 oz.)and super small (fit in the palm of your hand) and 4moa (just like the Micro Aimpoint). Larue makes a picatinny mount that has metal ears on it to further protect the optic in case of extreme abuse. These sights are designed to hold up mounted on the slide of a large caliber semi auto handgun, but come with a mount for a pic rail. These sights are incredibly tough and are designed to withstand like 4-5 hundred G's. They are almost a direct copy of a Docter Optic, except better, because of the on/off switch. It will mount right on your pic/Weaver rail. You see these sights piggybacked on the top of Trijicon ACOG's. They are way better than the Trijicon copy of the Docter however. With the Euro vs. Dollar a Docter is just too much money these days and in the unlikely event you need warranty, you have to send a Docter back to Germany. An Aimpoint T-1 Micro would be good as well, but heavier, bigger and lots more dough. But for Turkey hunting, or Deer with a slug, a Burris FF is the ticket for under 2 bills. I use them on SMG's and they work really good.

Here's the deal with a .410 and its only an observation, so don't beat me up over this. The .410 got a bad rap for being impossible to shoot well from people shooting guns that were cheap ass single shots and bolt action guns. Also, 99% of your .410 were choked full with short forcing cones and short chokes. This is NOT CONDUCIVE to good shooting, unless we're talking blasting a squirrel that sitting in the top of a tree. So, you combine a crappy gun that doesn't fit with a full choke and its amazing that anybody could hit ANYTHING. The gun that I shot the best in my life was a .410 Wingmaster with a 25" barrel that had the Forcing cones lengthened and polished and custom Briley long choke tubes installed. The thing with .410 is the narrow bore deforms a lot of shot which creates flyers. This is good for close shots, but for long range you need long forcing cones and long chokes so as to not deform your shot (keep it spherical). Granted, I used to spend a lot of time hunting birds and shooting sporting clays, but I could routinely kill doves out at 60-75 yrds with an IMP MOD choke and 3" high antimony #7 1/2 shot. This was back when I shot all the time, was in my early 30's and still had 20/15 vision. A 20 ga Monte still has quite a bit of recoil. I find that 20 ga kick about as hard as a 12 because they are so light. A .410 or a 28ga doesn't kick. Like shooting a pop gun. Recoil drives a lot of more sensitive shooters away. Just start them out at close range. A skeet range has the furthest shot at about 17yrds, if I recall??? A .410 thats choked right is easy to hit with out to 20 yards or so (where most game is killed anyhow). That being said my wife loves her Monte 20ga thats fit to her. My kid who's almost two now will start out with a .410 O/U thats cut down to fit him. I guess I'll be reloading a bunch of shotgun shells at that point. It's worth it to me though. I guess you have to decide if shooting a .410 is worth it because its either gonna be expensive, or a hassle because of the reloading involved. Don't discount a .410. They can be deadly.

Damn Scotty.

Anybody try this stuff. It is no-tox and biodegradable. Supposedly it cuts carbon and plastic/lead better than anything else. Excellent for choke tubes as well. I'm thinking about giving it a shot along with the Slip 2000 lubricant/CLP.

I want to trade my FIXED NON COLLASIBLE Pistol Grip M4 stocks that came from the factoryon my 11707 for the Non Pistol Grip Standard Stock that came on 11707's sold in some states. I like the field type stock better on my Full Length (non entry) length M4's. These stocks are in excellent cond. I would like to trade one or both, as I have the collapsible versions of the PG stocks if I need them. Of course, they're not installed at this time. Thanks, you can PM me if interested.

I have a NIB Factory Benelli +2 ext for the M4 that I would like to trade for a Factory full length tube. I"m only interested in a Benelli M4 factory full length mag tube. Please PM if interested. Thanks.

People will use 3" reloads of #12 shot with an extended X-full turkey choke. They will also load a minimum dram of powder and a maximum dram of #12 shot. With min powder you don't get set-back which cuases shot deformation which, in turn, causes flyers. This is for stationary "turkey" style shoots where you are shooting stationary and trying to "blow out" the bullseye or a paper turkeys head at 20yrds or so.

Model 11707 M4 is what you want.

Same as when it came from the factory BEFORE you put the +2 ext, or the full length tube in,which is 5+1+1 (carrier load). How much for the cut down after the Form I approval from our friends at the BATFE?

One thing to add is to get a shotgun with drop shims/plates. Women generally need a higher comb and less drop on longguns. My wife likes her Monte 20 ga. and has killed many a bird including geese with it. She uses an "A" shim and plate. I believe that this is the 50mm shim and plate. That being said if you reload get her an O/U cut and fitted in 28ga., or .410. Like shooting a pop-gun. Thing is 20ga kick as much as 12 because of their weight. It's just that they "fit" smaller shooter better. They still kick as hard though. Hardest kicking gun I ever shot was a SxS 20ga. with 2.75" mags.

The conventional stock is the one I like the best. I do plan on using a collapsible PG stock on my M4 12" SBS that I plan to make on a Form 1.Why would a person want a fixed PG stock if they also had the Collapsible PG Stock? Many people will say that the Collapsible is not really legal to put on your gun (without a tax stamp) even though Benelli sold a crap load of them to the blissfully unaware masses with the proviso that they were now legal- mag ext's. too. There's been this debate, you see... tongue in cheek my man, tongue in cheek.

Numrich also has the conventional non PG synthetic stock for 183 and some change. I don't like my fixed non collapsible PG stocks and would like to trade them for the conventional stock. Any takers??? Otherwise, I plan on getting the conventional and selling the FIXED PG stocks that I have because I already have the collapsibles if I want a PG stock. Of course I would NEVER actually install one of these dreaded stocks on my weapons.

Numrich, aka (egunparts) has the "factory" full length extentions as well as "aftermarket" replacement extentions available for 99.95. They list these ext. as having a 6 round capacity and 18.25" inches in length. This would be 6 rounds of 3" shells-7 of 2.75". Anybody have one of these Numrich "factory" tubes. Do they come in the Benelli packaging like my factory +2 ext. did so you can be sure that they are factory Benelli? They also have the long mag springs, has anybody had any experience with these? Ijust used the original springs with my +2 extentions and I haven't had any issues. Are the supposed longer springs REALLY longer or is this just the same spring that I got with my guns?

Trap loads ARE heavy loads. They are usually max dram and 1 1/4 oz shot. If your gun doesn't shoot trap loads out of the box something is wrong with the gun.

I have a 20ga Montefeltro from 1994 that has a truly unbelievable amount of rds. through it and it has never had the recoil spring replaced. All you need to do is clean the recoil tube once every 1k or so depending on humidity levels and the quality of the ammo (powder/wad).

M4's come with a Mod. chk. only. If you shoot a Mod., or IM (Imp. Mod.), or even a full, whichever your gun likes, with a buffered and plated shot buckshot load (no cheap assed Wallace World) your gun should shoot MOST of the pattern into a 24"X24" at 50m. Just use the TruBall Slugs if you want the best accuracy. IMO, you will still get way more hits with buckshot out at 50m+, especially if the targets are moving. Remember, we're talkin' shotguns here. A shotgun is probably THE bast weapon for close quarters and especially defensive work (especially with modern shotshells). However, it is not a precision instrument by its very nature. For shooting at fast moving, close quarters, pop up type adversaries- it's hard to beat. A submachine gun does have it's advantages for real close in work, say, around vehicles and entry because of it's mag capacity and its OAL. I will still take a shotgun if my life is on the line though. YMMV

OK, I'm thinking that your choke threads might be bored off center. The way to check for this is to hold the barrel up to light and look down the muzzle. You will notice a ring around the base of your choke tube. It should look even all the way around. If it doesn't, your chk. was bored off center and Benelli needs to make it right. You will find this more apparent when you use your shotgun to shoot slugs, but it will also affect your patterns with shot as well.

+1 on getting some choke tube grease. Just tighten your choke tube like you would a spark plug. The first Benelli's didn't even have a way to remove the recoil spring. All you have to do is take off your stock and your trigger group. Then take the bolt and push it about 2" or so into the receiver. The tail of the bolt will allow you to spray gunscrubber (synthetic safe formula) into the recoil tube. You will see the crap start to blow out. Pump the bolt till all the gunscrubber is out then spray some CLP EEZOX is good but whatever down there. give it about a solid two second spray. Then, pump the bolt to get the lube working and distributed in your recoil tube. A dirty recoil tube is the Achilles Heel of the Benelli system; however, I haven't noticed that the ARGO system is as sensitive to needed the recoil tube as clean as a regular Benelli with the pure inertia system. Of course, you don't normally take your 11707 out and put 500-1000k through it on a dove hunt either.

The whole thing with the 8 pellet "low recoil" LE buckshot is so people of smaller stature can shoot the 12ga. It's also really good in AOW, or SBS. Otherwise your better off shooting a 2 3/4" 00 or 000 buck with max dram of powder. 3" mag are actually slower velocity because they have the same amount of powder and more shot to push. Oh, and they have even more recoil. Recoil is not a factor when your defending your life. SMG, or carbines work better for smaller folks- smaller folks with big wallets. As far as the debate over 00 or 000, just see which size patterns the best in your shotgun and go with that one. Don't expect the el cheapo Wally World with crappy soft lead shot to hold a tight pattern for very far though. It might be just the ticket for close range though because the soft lead shot deforms on firing and gets "scrubbed" by the bore and creates flyers. For distance you need copper plated buckshot and you need to pattern your gun with Mod. Imp. Mod. and Full. In most guns the IM choke usually give me the tightest most concentric patterns. All gun are different though and this is a rough guideline. It's fun to try different loads and chokes. You will be amazed how much difference you find.

What he said.