agm65ccip

People like you are the reason whenever I go to walmart looking for ammo they are out

I'll second the #2 recommendation, gunsmithing your other one seems like too much messing around for me, and getting the tactical dipped in camo and removing the extension doesn't seem like you would be using it for what it was made for. Plus you would probably have a harder time getting the tactical over the sporter. All the pistolgrips I see on places like gunbroker are already camoed so that would be the easy part if you got the new M2.

http://www.choketube.com/mobilchoke.html I'm pretty sure those will do you, but you can check the choke tube chart on that site to be sure. As far as I know the M4 has the standard choke style vs the crio or crio plus versions.

I might call them at some point but it happens once every 1000-1500 rounds...so I just don't know if I'm part of the problem for those. I wasnt knocking the M2 I was just saying that the strikes are a little lighter than I like, and well I'm an engineer so I can hardly resist fiddling with things .

That right there is the one part that I dont like about the M2, its a very small deal but I do notice that my primer strikes are very light. I'm thinking about modding it so it hits harder but I haven't thought of the ideal way yet. I wouldn't dream of modding it except that I do have misfires every so often where it looks like the pin barely touched the primer let alone put a good dent in it, but put the same shell back in and it goes so its not the end of the world just a slight annoyance.

I don't know much about turkey performance, but I'm pretty sure that the most of the new models take crio tubes and others are standard tubes. The benelli website has more on that here: http://www.benelliusa.com/parts_and_accessories/choke_tubes.php Easiest way to tell as far as I know is the crio plus tubes the threads are not right on the end but set back a bit.

www.gunbroker.com

I'm going to have to +1 on the dads booze, 11:37 on a friday night, if he was old enough to drink he would still be at a bar But for the real meat of his post, this is a public forum anyone can get on here and say whatever they want (unless its an ad haha) so you shouldn't take anything too seriously.

Yeah I say a lot of funny things, I wasnt attempting to be a dork about it, sorry. I was just meaning to say that it sounded like not having the full cross bar could cause some issues and that there were other options.

I thought we decided that the little nubbies on the side instead of the full cross bar were not the way to go for reliably mounting optics... I know there was a whole other thread that ended with cleefurd making a new rail. So if that new rail anywhere close to fitting on an SBEII I'd hold out for that, especially if you are drilling and tapping because then you can make the holes to fit the rail rather than the other way.

yeah I got that too, I pressed delete and moved on with my life haha

No, the one I have (comfortec stock) is not drilled and tapped. I'm looking at doing it myself but right this moment I haven't gotten to it.

I use my M2 with a 28" for both trap and skeet and it works well. Swinging for skeet really isnt a problem because with the M2 (and most benellis I believe) the center of gravity is about mid action so barrel length doesn't hurt you that much. 26" will do you just fine for both, the biggest part is to change chokes. MOD works well for trap and either IC or CYL for skeet. The M2 came with 5 chokes so depending on what gun you get you might have a different choke set but the theory is trap a little tighter skeet a little looser. Skeet will be much more enjoyable if you start out really open so you can hit some targets and get the leads down and then tighten up a bit, but if you run out there with a MOD or tighter you likely wont hit much for a while (especially if you are new to the game). No matter what have fun with your boy, both trap and skeet are extremely enjoyable.

I think the patterning high is a design not a problem, that way you can see the target the entire time without having to block it with the bead, and if you are going for a really far shot then you put the bead on it, if you are sighted dead on and shooting further you will need to put the bird below the bead and wont see it when you pull the trigger. I shoot a lot of skeet with my M2 and me tell you it's night and day shooting it with an auto vs a pump. For those doubles, especially station 4, it makes a huge difference having your next shot ready to go as soon as you can pull the trigger so you can concentrate on your lead vs cycling your gun. I personally prefer autos above all other action types and have had very few Fail To Anythings (FTAs )

you can search threads for words by using the search button in the yellow ribbon at the top of the page. Here is a relatively recent thread: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18922

bighat calm down, Duggan just ribs people nothing serious, besides whats the fun in going to a forum without a little humor. If its any consolation a strap wrench can be used for a lot of other things besides gunsmithing so its not like you threw money away.

http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18189 Here is a thread where it was discussed before. I think it basically comes down to if you want a one or 2 piece receiver, and whether or not you have any plans to shoot 3.5"

nice test thanks! as you say the pictures tell the whole story. Would be interesting to see what would happen if you switched over to a tight choke for that 75 yard shot. Hevi-Shot has a choke they claim does well with large shot out to 75 yards, I'm thinking about trying that out before long.

The range I go to doesnt care what you bring, they are more concerned about you being safe. That said if you talk to the range officer I would ask if there are any rules for the type of gun, if he says no then I would be wholly unconcerned with what other shooters think.

But where's the fun in that?

long before I would unscrew the mag tube I would take off the magazine end cap and check to see if there isn't a snap ring in the end. If there is a snap ring remove it carefully and the spring, follower, and plug should come out.

By void do you mean that little notch just "below" the recoil spring plunger? If yes then I have that too. About the machining, it may be the light but mine looks like yours except its black the whole way to the back. I'd post a picture but I'm too lazy to disassemble in the middle of the night, but if it still concerns you I'll get one tomorrow.

a benelli is a good choice so I'm sure you wont be disappointed

+1 on the creepy scale

You are completely right. I was thinking more in terms of absolute speed for getting say 10 shots off. If one gun has 5ms more lock time but everything else is equal then the slower gun will always be 50ms slower...but like I said I cant remember the last time I was worried about being behind by .05 seconds.