agm65ccip

In short...no. Most of the year my M2 eats 1oz target loads. My last Fail to Anything was ~2000 rounds ago when I had to hit a primer twice. Go have fun

Hair dryer ~150F so you don't burn yourself, a real heat gun output ~1000F...toasty...

What you are describing is called sporting clays...find a range and shoot it sometime...you wont be sorry

Yeah, what I mean is it's one thing to shoot at targets where you have all the time in the world to mount your gun before calling "pull", its quite another thing to bring your gun up quickly for a bird that you have a very short time to shoot at. So if when you bring your gun up quickly and you aren't lined up as you would normally shoot you might miss. Try this: stand with your shotgun as you would have it when you think the grouse are close but haven't seen one fly. Pick an object in front of you, close your eyes and bring your gun up like you want to shoot it as quickly as you can. When you open your eyes you should have the right sight picture and be reasonably close to your object. If you aren't then you might have to work on it until your pull up and point motion becomes smooth.

OK so you have a nova. This means that you have just the standard (mobile) choke set based on this site here: http://www.benelliusa.com/parts_and_accessories/choke_tubes.php So if you are ever looking at chokes make sure it says they fit the Benelli/Beretta mobile choke system. I would recommend either: Carlson's - http://www.choketube.com Briley - http://www.briley.com Trulock - http://www.trulockchokes.com Now I think IC should be good enough for your purposes, but if you want to buy a new choke REALLY badly you could go SKEET (.005) as Unobtanium suggested, or my preference CYLINDER (.000). Did you ever end up patterning your gun? You should also be practicing having your gun in a low carry position and snapping it up to shoot quickly and accurately. If you are misaligning your gun on the draw it doesn't really matter what choke you have in it because the gun isn't shooting where you think it is at that point anyway. It's good to hear that you are having fun, keep at it.

come back with a video of you shooting it M1014, then that and a dollar will get you coffee at McDonalds...

example of gun OCD: A guy I know that comes to the range often made a remark about how he had a burr on his wood stocked Browning O/U. I looked at the burr, could barely see it. He had decided that he needed to wear gloves because this burr rubbed his hand when he was shooting. I suggested that he might take some #OOOO sandpaper and smooth the burr down a bit. You would have thought I suggested he saw the gun in half. "But sandpaper would scratch the finish"...so he would rather have a burr that you could barely see that he needed to wear gloves for rather than smooth it out and put up with a small finish sanding...

I would make sure that the grooves that the bolt head rotates into are clean. So take your barrel off and just before the chamber there are grooves, last time I checked mine they were black with carbon/dirt/powder residue. Take a Q-Tip and some solvent and make sure those are shiny silver like the rest of the barrel extension. You could also take the bolt assembly out and make sure that it only takes a light touch to push the bold head back and have it rotate. You may need to take the bolt assembly apart to clean/lube.

Unless thats a .308 PMag Unobtanium I'm unimpressed.

The proper response is GET HELP SIR!

Let me ask you this, by jamming on the top of the carrier do you mean the shell is on the carrier and the carrier is still down, or has the carrier lifted the shell and thats when the thing stops? Here is a picture of just after I pull the trigger where the last round in the mag tube has been thrown onto the carrier: As you can see the round is clear of the mag tube and ready to be lifted. After I pull the bolt back the "fired" round is ejected and the new round is lifted just after I let the bolt travel forward a tiny bit. Now sometimes I can get the gun to jam like this: Where the shell is ready to be loaded and the carrier is up but the bolt is snagged. I can get the round to chamber if I either tap forward on the charging handle or push down slightly on the carrier (holding the bolt back so my fingers don't get smashed naturally). This jam never happens in real life (actually shooting) but I thought if your jam looked like this you might want to consider the bolt. The notches on the bottom of the bolt govern what the carrier does and if one of those is off I can see how you might have chambering issues even if your chamber is spotless.

Is it just these ammo types? eg does a different brand work all the time? for these troublesome shells does it jam on every shell or only so often? The thing I would check is make sure that the drop lever is tight against the bolt release.

refreshing?! we've only seen these same pictures 125564832156489 times

Double check to make sure that nothing in the trigger group is binding, the pin shouldn't be real hard to force out. I dont know what to tell you about the camo, thats why I got mine in synthetic black. As for using pliers don't do that, get a properly sized pin punch...and for those who get it this guy R1 should have a few lying around...

1. Pattern your gun. This means setting up some large paper/cardboard and putting a dot on it. Back up the distance you feel like you are shooting from (ie if you shoot at rabbits that are about 20 yards away back up 20 yards from your paper). Aim the gun like you are trying to hit the dot you drew and fire. See where your shot went. Repeat until satisfied. Poke around this site it is a bit more eloquent than I am: http://www.fieldandclays.com/expert_chokes.htm 2. Shooting at hand thrown targets means you are probably shooting when they are still pretty close (20ish yards), so to me you should loosen your choke. Go with something like Improved Cylinder or Cylinder if you have them. To me it is better to start with a big pattern and work tighter as you become more familiar with the gun, and it is less discouraging if you hit more often. 3. Learn to lead. If you shoot right at a moving target you will miss. Even at 1200fps shot takes an awful long time to get anywhere. You need to aim a bit in front of your target so that the shot and target will occupy the same point in space sometime in the future. In the game of skeet you have to aim as much as 1-2 feet in front of the targets in order to hit them, or else your shot will not be fast enough to catch the target. Here is another more eloquent explanation with pictures: http://www.hunter-ed.com/mi/course/ch3_leading_the_target.htm Don't worry you'll get it, just figure out where/how your gun shoots how to lead your target and put some more rounds through your gun

Measure the stock dimensions and go here: http://www.limbsaver.com/templates.php#slipon easy peasy

Here is my personal stance on the whole HD thing, you really need to know what your plan is going to be and then fit your shotgun to that plan. I'm not a fan of house hunting, I'm not going to go poking around my house in the middle of the night with some intruder (armed or otherwise) in there with me. In my house the bedrooms are separated from the living area (living room/kitchen/etc) by a good length hallway. So if it comes down to it I'm going to setup at the end of the hallway and wait for the police to come. If you are a burglar and want to trash the living room go ahead, I don't even LIKE that TV, oh and there is some nasty tasting cheese in the fridge have that too. But come down that hallway at me and it is going to be over. As such my M2 with the 28" barrel on it works just great. That said for the HD figure out what your plan is and if you need the shorter barrel then you have a decent reason why you are doing it. Personally if you were going to go that direction I would go all the way to 18" as I don't think you will see too much difference for 2". So I thought I would throw that out there, just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it.

It does make a little noise, but it really is up to you on how much noise is acceptable. I have a dowel rod plug in my extended M2 and it only makes the noise of the rod sliding up/down the spring when I point the muzzle at the sky or at the ground. The deer I hunt don't seem to notice (I'm assuming hunting is the reason you would need to limit to 3). The other side of that is when you are fully loaded (3) the plug is very close to the follower so it doesn't have much room to travel to make noise. Unless you get leads on real plugs I would try it out, the worst that could happen is you are out $1 and a bit of time.

Go to a hardware store and get a 3ft long 1/4" dowel rod for $1 and cut to fit. Cheap and easy.

Unless you have an M4 with a rifled barrel or choke tube I would just get the cheaper rifled slugs as sabots need the spin of rifling to squeeze the accuracy out. Especially since it is for an HD use I really dont think you will see much of an accuracy difference over 20 yards. Some on the forum here have reported good results with federal truball rifled slugs. Personally if I was looking for a dedicated HD round I would be looking at OO or OOO buckshot, but currently I'm taking the lazy route and saying I use 3" Remington Buckhammers for hunting those should probably work for HD too...

Ok this is your first benelli and first semi auto all in one fell swoop, there is a learning curve. As for the lack of break-in, it simply isn't true, read the manual and it specifically tells you to run at least 4 boxes of heavy loads through it. Seeing as you have only run 23 rounds through you are not done. So seeing your problems are very similar to my initial problems with my M2 the main thing I can tell you is to shoot it more. The root of the problem is that the locking head doesn't rotate fully into battery. So make sure that those grooves are clean and the rails are oiled well. Check to make sure that the head is fully rotated when you first load the gun. One thing I found helpful is if the head is not fully rotated you can tap the bolt handle with the heel of your hand like a forward assist to make it happen. After breaking in the number of issues you see should go to zero. I have an M2 that I have put thousands of rounds through and it is smooth as silk.

If the pelican case is the one that has inside dimensions of about 50"x14"x5" and it is in pretty good condition I would be extremely interested.

Zee sometimes I wonder what you are like in real life...I see only two possibilities: 1. You are a normal guy who uses the randomness of the internet to let the crazy out 2. You are completely bat-!@#$ insane, and the internet only lets a small portion of the crazy out. At this point I cannot decide which would be funnier

I would hate to take a good case from someone who is buying the gun but failing that what size of pelican are we talking about?