agm65ccip

The Vinci takes the crio chokes, it seems that the newer models take the crios. Do you have a vinci or are you just looking around?

Yeah you could shoot skeet with a 4" barrel if you were desperate. The thing a longer barrel buys you is that the weight out in front smooths your swing a bit. I don't know how long you have been reading the forum, but if you do a search for M4 optic you can find several threads on here with guys showing of the "glass" they put on their guns. As for the "inappropriate gun look", messing with those "retirement community" guys as I call them, who think a gun can't be used for skeet unless its an over/under and has a wood stock, is sometimes half the fun of shooting at a range...especially if they get into a tizz if you start beating them with your "inappropriate gun"

When I go skeeting I use the cylinder choke and while I have never gotten all 25 I do pretty well. So, I think you are using the right choke though you could go with Improved Cylinder (4) if you wanted without much trouble. The M4 isn't meant to be a bird gun per se and I think the ghost ring sights (I'm assuming that is the type you have) are the real hinderance here. Your description of grazing the targets to me sounds like you are a little off with the sights. If you wanted to be semi-serious about this I would suggest that next time you are out see if you can pattern the gun with some target loads and your cylinder choke and make sure the shot is going where you think it is. The other thing I would do is practice swinging like you are shooting skeet and make sure that your sights stay aligned the same way all the way through the swing. If nothing else the M4 still sounds like an awesome shotgun and its intended targets move a bit slower than those goofy birds

Yes, for hunting sometimes you are limited to 3 shots in the gun. Removing the plug is a relatively easy procedure, you just need to carefully take out the snap ring in the end of the magazine tube, under the end cap.

One of the many ways to load it, and the way I usually load my M2 is as follows: Press the Drop Lever and pull the bolt back, it should lock back. Put a round in the chamber and press the bolt release button. You now have a round in the chamber ready to go so dont be playing with the trigger. Then load rounds into the magazine being careful not to wedge your thumb in the hole at the end of the carrier. The drop lever design is to allow you to pull rounds from the chamber without feeding from the magazine. So if you need to jump a fence while hunting, you can just pull the round you have in the chamber and not have to unload the entire magazine. If you do want to get one from the magazine you simply have to pull the bolt back and press the drop lever and one round will feed from the magazine, let the bolt go and you are back in business.

Nice, if nothing else you can say you know more about the inner workings of your gun than you did before.

Much reading you have: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20825&highlight=M4+922r http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20338&highlight=M4+922r http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19539&highlight=M4+922r http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19579&highlight=M4+922r http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19415&highlight=M4+922r http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18772&highlight=M4+922r http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17999&highlight=M4+922r In the end it comes down to your level of comfort with interpreting the law/full compliance or "getting caught"...

Good job on getting the carrier latch replaced. As far as your experiment, when I push the CDL the round gets thrown back nearly against the black plastic of the trigger group. It is stuck there and no amount of shaking it will free it. The bolt pulls back easily and the carrier lifts just fine when I let the bolt forward again.

Here are some instructions for posting to the forum: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14613 Its too bad you couldn't get this all worked out without sending it back to benelli, hopefully they will take care of it quickly.

I'd be very interested in pictures. Post em up.

I got my +2 extension here: http://www.tjgeneralstore.com/magazine_extensions.htm Worked out really well, but its only a black tube, but that worked well with my black M2...I can't imagine that you would hurt the camo though.

There is potential that the recoil spring is too weak and just not pushing the bolt forward hard enough, but it does seem to work most of the time and to me if your spring was that bad it would be failing much more often. Related to that though have you ever cleaned the recoil spring/tube? If there is a lot of junk in there it might slow the spring down enough to make it fail only sometimes... I would think its more of a lube issue if you haven't been doing that too much. Make sure you get some oil on the large pin where there carrier is attached to the trigger group, and on the pin in the "bolt stop tooth" (T1 as it were). You should be able to move the carrier up and down and move the bolt stop tooth very easily. If you get a some pressure there just lube and work it a few dozen times until both of those move around super easily. I'd also put a few drops of oil on the bolt rails when you put it back into the receiver again the bolt should move forward and backward very smoothly. Tighter tolerances could be an issue but I would think something like that would have worked itself in over the 3 years you have been shooting this. The new carrier latch spring could have more pressure, depending on how worn the spring you have in there now is. Yes the carrier latch should press against the carrier drop lever (silver tab) when the CDL is down (you can see the red). When you push the CDL up the silver tab should get out of the way of the carrier latch and it should spring in against the carrier. This way when the carrier goes down the latch prevents the carrier from rising and stopping the bolt from going forward (as we discussed above). Just remember when you are putting the trigger group back in you should be pushing the button so that the carrier latch is tucked inside the receiver. Sounds like you are close, hopefully soon you can say you have a trouble free gun

When you say like the safety was on do you mean the trigger wouldn't pull back as normal? Or just that the hammer wouldn't fall when the trigger did go back? I would say you should pull the trigger assembly and clean out any junk inside, and test it outside the gun to see if you can get it back into the mode where it wont release the hammer when you pull the trigger.

1. nice 2. you certainly can shoot a BG in the head I was just asking if that was what tucker here did with that deer. If I was only 20 yards away and was using birdshot I would go for the headshot.

Yeah 2 questions actually: 1. You can legally use birdshot on a deer? (here it is slugs only so I have no dealings with legal use of shot to begin with let alone birdshot) 2. Headshot?

The carrier latch is not difficult to replace, you just need a correctly sized punch to tap out the pin that holds it in. I've done it several times (see the button mod post) and its really not a big deal. There are really only two things that control the carrier movement the trigger assembly spring and the notches on the bottom of the bolt carrier. Since your issue is happening at the beginning of the load cycle we are most concerned with the first notch "B1" as it were: Sorry the text is so small, it looked bigger before I uploaded...anyway if you look at this notch on your bolt you should see that it is flatter on the side that goes toward the stock than it is on the side toward the barrel. This notch B1 interfaces with notch T1 from your trigger assembly: So when you fire a shot and the bolt goes all the way back just as it starts forward B1 and T1 are locked together with the carrier down. The recoil spring pushes the bolt forward and force is applied from B1 to T1 to the carrier (green arrow) to push the carrier up. Once the carrier starts up T1 should disengage from B1 and allow the bolt to pass over it thus loading the round. Because it closes when you tap the carrier up to me that means that the bolt and carrier are getting stuck together when the bolt doesn't have enough force to start the carrier up and thus disengage T1 from B1. Try this out yourself, if you take the bolt assembly and trigger assembly out you can slide the bolt along the top of the trigger assembly and see all of this happening. I would have taken a picture of me doing that but I don't have the 6 hands required to get the things lined up and take a picture haha. So I would make sure the carrier in your new trigger group moves up and down very easily inside the receiver. It should want to stay down but movement should not be difficult at all. Then I would take the trigger assembly and bolt assembly out and play with them as I described sliding one on top of the other and see if you notice what happens when those two notches come together. On mine in order to get the notches to "lock" I have to hold the carrier down as well because it wants to move up in the worst way as soon as the bolt is in position. I would also replace the carrier latch too, no sense in not doing it if your gun is still broken and benelli sent you the part for free, just make sure you get a correctly sized punch and start from the hole in the bottom of the receiver.

Well with replacing the mag spring and trigger group, the only things left are the carrier latch, recoil spring and bolt carrier... Since you already have the latch on the way let us know what happens with that.

As I recall you were having an issue with the last round feeding. You replaced the mag spring and were getting a new trigger assembly from benelli. Is that true or did I just dream that up?

Side view

Just as a follow up, I was out on the range the other day when it was about 11 degrees and this plastic bolt release cracked right in half...I'm assuming it had something to do with being cold. Either way I decided not to play around this time and chose some stainless steel. Same procedure as listed above but I just thought I would throw this out there in case anyone was debating doing it themselves go steel early. Pad dimensions are about the same as before, thickness is 1/8", I probably could have went with thinner steel but 1/8" seemed pretty reasonable. Parts used. Top view

Well you are going to have to be a little more specific as to how it is jamming. Does the spent round fail to eject? New round not load? New round get stuck on the carrier? Walk through what happens to cause the jam. Pictures would be golden as well.

+1 it is an amazing gun and I have been nothing but happy with mine.

Yeah +1 on you are fine, but here it looks worse when you put a pad on the button if that is any consolation

post a few more times to get to 5 (even random I'm just trying to get the count up posts) upload the jpegs to a place like photobucket put them in your posts using the insert image button There was a guide around here for doing this but I can't find it right this second...

Haha I have to disagree completely rocket, if it was 75-85 degrees year around I would be upset. A 40 degree average temp would be more my speed, and unfortunately no, I'm not getting snowed on