shotgunNoob

Hey all... For those of you who dont know, I currently have a Mesa Tactical SureShell (4 shot) sidesaddle mounted on my SNT. Now, while I love the look of it and can see some advantages of having this item installed on the weapon (its mainly for HD), I have grown increasingly concerned about stripping the threads of the aluminum receiver (given relatively heavy range use). Id almost just prefer to remove this thing and save myself any possible probs in the future, given that this is my only shotty. I should also mention that I currently have a +2 mag extension, so I generally tend to keep 4 to 5 rounds in the tube. Im thinking this should be quite enough, barring some type of "zombie" fest. So, any thoughts? Im sure this might be a ridiculous and certainly, a very subjective topic. However, given the HD nature of this weapon, I was curious to see what others felt about the necessary/unnecessary application of sidesaddles where HD is of primary concern. Thx in advance for any replies.

There is such a rule? If so, I think Ill plan on ignoring it.

Im sure there are several slings out there which will work on this gun....some good and some not so good. I personally use the following sling from Urban E.R.T. Its a nice sling. This works for me as I like the ability to use the sling in a 1 point configuration. Ive also seen bungee slings which seem interesting. One thing that frustrates me about the SNT is its "limited" sling attatchment options. http://www.urbanertslings.com/besunoslurhy.html In terms of ammo sidesaddles...look at the Mesa Tactical SureShell carriers (4 shell carriers work best for the SNT) or possibly TacStar carriers. Do some research here as they both have some differences and come with their own set of potential issues. Of course, you might also consider just using a stock mounted fabric-type carrier. In terms of a light, most seem to like the Insight or Surefire lights. Im sure there are several ways in which to mount such a light. I just mount my Insight m3x tactical light to a rail-equipped barrel/tube clamp. Ive seen others use mounts which are located between the fore-end and tube nut. But, I havent seen such a mount for the SNT as of yet. Most of these type mounts seem to favor the "M" series Benellis (possibly..not sure), Remington 870s and Mossberg 500 series. Also, Ive seen clamps which will attach to a mag tube extension only, but I havent tried one out nor can I remember who makes them. For the shorter stock, Im not sure about this one. Im using the Benelli Suregrip pistol grip stock and find that it "fits" me a bit better than the Comfortech stock. So, I havent really been interested in doing too much research in this area. From what Ive seen, finding a stock for the SNT, other than those offered from Benelli (2 or 3), will be very difficult... if not impossible. I could be wrong here, but I certainly believe that finding one will not be nearly as easy as it could or should be.

Don't let this guy get to you too much. He's the resident "smart ass" (but, he does know his sh*t). I mean that in the most benign way. For autoloaders, based on personal opinion and research, Id go with Benelli. In terms of which model, I cant say. This would be the place to find info on that, however. BTW- If you cant find the answer(s) you seek here, try this link: http://www.thehighroad.org/index.php But, at the highroad, you might find that most are Remington fanboys. No offense whatsoever to those guys. It is a great website. Im just forewarning you.

I just went to my local firearms dealer and ordered one (a pistol grip, anyway). It arrived to me in 1 week. I think they just ordered it straight from Benelli. I have a Comfortech stock that I might sell. But, I do like having a "spare" around even though I prefer the Suregrip stock (which is what I currently have mounted on my SN).

This is, unfortunately, quite the true statement.

Hey there...Unfortunately, I havent decided on whether or not I will be selling this item. The only reason I have this clamp is for mounting a light onto my shotgun. However, I have been considering buying yet ANOTHER shotty and simply using my current light on the new gun. But, as I havent reached that point, Id hate to sell the Nordic clamp (being the only means by which I can use my current weapon mounted light). But, I will probably wind up selling this Nordic clamp upon the purchase of my next shotgun (in about a month or so). So, if you are interested, be patient. Since you are the first to respond, I will give you first rights of refusal.

There is a joke in there somewhere, but Ill let it go. Seriously though, I have the same issue. However, so far, it seems to have had no effect whatsoever in terms of "light" primer strikes. But, Murphys Law and I are well aware of each other, so.....guess Ill have to keep my fingers crossed on this one. Suddenly, I dont feel too bad about "replacing" my SN tactical (now, an occasional shooter) with an 870P.

On either side of the fore-end (pump) you will find one "action bar retaining pin". Tightening or loosening these pins seem to have an effect on how tightly the fore-end "grabs" the rails (action bars). Try loosening these about 1/4 of a turn each and see if that doesnt help. If not, try a bit more. Just dont loosen them too much. If I remember correctly, I believe these pins are of the Allen head persuasion.

I like it...Not sure if I would personally need the scope, but it looks cool!! BTW- That buttstock carrier looks like a Blackhawk unit...is it? How does it "feel" and does it have an effective hold on ammo when stored primer down (as pictured)? I ask because I was thinking about replacing my Mesa Tactical carrier for one such as yours. Again...nice.

Im feeling kinda lazy, so I will just give you the "gist" of it. Essentially, all metal surfaces and working mechanisms of the gun will need oil at some point. For exterior metal surfaces, use a lightly coated (w/oil) patch to wipe down exposed areas. I generally use 8 to 10 drops of oil (on a patch) for wiping down large areas. If you find that you are "running dry", discard the old patch and oil up a new one. Once done, if you can leave a fingerprint after lightly touching the surface, its essentially enough oil. You dont want it messy or dripping by any means. This goes double for hard to reach parts. Same thing goes for the barrel (bore) and chamber. When field stripping the gun, its essentially the same. Rub oil on parts such as the bolt, locking head assembly, firing pin (if you get that far), action bars, etc. Again, only a light coat is needed. Try to avoid getting too much oil into the firing pin hole. When dealing with the trigger assembly (once removed), only one or two drops of oil should do it. I tend to apply these few drops directly into the trigger and hammer areas. You dont want too much oil in here as it would be quite a pain to disassemble this part in order to deep clean excessive application(s) of oil or solvent, for that matter. I generally do not apply oil to these areas but 2 to 3 times a year..based on my shooting habits. For the mag tube...well...I tend to deep clean it twice a year. I may apply a LIGHT coat of oil on the spring, but I generally tend to keep this area dry. I store ammo here for HD use and have no desire to tempt fate in terms of what oil may do to the rounds stored within. So, generally speaking, keep this area dry but clean. As a side note...you might consider, if you havent already, of getting a bottle equipped with a needle cap. These are great for precise application(s) of oil. Hope this helps..... PM me if you have any more questions.

Other than using a bore laser or a weapon mounted laser to "put the shot on paper" or using a benchrest, Im thinking the easiest (and maybe cheapest) way is to try "spotting" the shooter. In other words, depending on the target distance, consider having the non-shooter looking for any hits via binoculars. From there, the non-shooting "spotter" can give the shooter verbal feedback on which direction to aim. Once solid target acquisition is made, adjust the sights as necessary...assuming, as stated earlier, your sights have such capability. Of course, if the target is a good distance away, consider moving it closer...then farther out in increments. Something along the lines of 5, 10, 15, and 25 yards. This, of course, would be good for patterning the shotty using buckshot. For slugs, maybe go 15, 25, 50, etc., depending on the max yardage the gun range allows for. These are only suggestions and the yards may vary based on certain factors. Either way, putting shots on paper shouldnt be too hard with a shotgun. Try using large, easily visible targets as this might help to "catch" off-center hits.

Go here...I think this guy was having similar issues. This discussion begins on the 6th post. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17377

The beforementioned setup seems nice. Have never tried it myself. I went with a "traditional" barrel/mag tube clamp attachment (w/rail). Its a pain in the a** though, as I need to remove the clamp when cleaning the barrel. This other setup just might be more practical. Either way, you are looking at clamps that are either barrel mounted, mag tube mounted or barrel/tube mounted. Take your pick. Or...just get one of these. No light necessary.

From what I gather, due to the lack of threads, the smoothbore barrel used for the SN tactical will not accept chokes. If you feel the need to choke this smoothbore, try the following link: https://www.vangcomp.com/Home.html I cant remember how much they charge for modifying a chrome-lined bore or if they even mess with such things anymore. They used to do it, but that was over a year ago. In terms of the Sabot thing...why not just use rifled slugs instead and save yourself a bit of grief and expense? These are essentially designed to be shot out of a smoothbore. You could buy a rifled barrel, but that would cost you around $500 or so. Personally, as I mentioned before, I would just stick with rifled slugs and skip this other mess. From what I understand, with this particular shotty, rifled slugs will give great performance up to the 100 yard range...give or take. Certainly this is enough, no?

Do you have any solvent around, such as Hoppes? Try applying it on the affected surfaces and leaving it on for 10-15 minutes. Wipe off and then, if necessary, do it again. This may help cut through the oxidized areas.

True..Ive heard that you dont want to use a penetrating type lube anywhere ammo will be stored (in this case, the mag tube). I tend to keep areas like this dry. On occasion, I will use Hornady One Shot. But, this is mainly for cleaning as I shoot my shotty about every 3 months or so.

Hmm...If I were you I might try using a good CLP like BreakFree or Weapon Shield. Ive even heard that brake fluid can work, although Ive never tried this myself. If none of this stuff fits the bill, you might consider a quality gun degreaser perhaps. A quality gun solvent might even help, if left on long enough. Either way, Im sure that you will be able to remove the oxidation with a bit of "elbow grease". In the future, if you didnt, I would recommend applying a good coat of lube or perhaps weapon-grade grease on all exterior metal surfaces prior to shooting in either very wet or very humid environments. Also, its probably not a bad idea to always wipe the gun dry after such exposure. Im sure that several peeps here will offer similar or even better advice. Im just giving you an idea of what I would do given similar circumstances. Good luck....it will work out.

Im no authority on this stuff, but...Have you tried removing this "rust" yet? If so, what are you using for the task? As a side note, Im thinking its always a bad idea to put any weapon aside for a decent period of time after having been exposed to wet conditions.

While I think no "presents" will be bought for my SuperNova (it has all that it needs), it just may receive a new "brother"...a Remington 870 Police

Thanks for the holiday greeting!! The best to you and yours!! Take care.....

I cant comment on the m6x unit as I am using the m3x. The only thing I have noticed is that the beam seems more oval in shape than truly circular. But, this may be intentional...not sure. Maybe its to keep less light from bouncing off of the barrel. Who knows. Im just curious...why the need for a laser system on a shotty? The m3x (same as m6x, but minus laser) has the same lumen output of the m6x and I think its also a bit shorter. But, the biggest difference is price. At Optics Planet, the M6X starts at $239 whereas the M3X starts at $118. For both of these you will need to add additional fees for acquiring the long gun version. Needless to say, it can get quite expensive.

Start searching around for Remington 870 owners. I have seen and heard of several plastic followers breaking apart within the tube. As I have mentioned before...Does this pertain to those used in Benelli guns? Not at all. But, it does make one think. Besides, Im not claiming this part will fail. However, I keep 4 to 5 rounds in the tube at all times, for home defense. Im assuming this puts an increased amount of strain on this particular item as it is constant strain vs temporary strain. For this, I would rather use something tougher than plastic. Just my opinion. Whether its right or wrong...I dont particularly care. I bought my NC follower to be used with an NC spring which is all housed in an NC mag extension. Nordic Components makes quality parts. There is no reason to assume that anyone using these parts is settling for sub-standard or unnecessary add-ons. Regardless of whether or not the Benelli follower works, Ill take aluminum over plastic when it comes to my weapon.

Im not sure by what you are referring to when you say "reliefs". If you are talking about the "ribs" (3 of them), then this is normal. It seems the only difference, besides color, is the 20g model has a small hole located opposite the spring side and is a bit longer vs the 12g model. To answer your question about a small hole, my NC follower does not have one other than the large "hole" needed for, of course, the spring. If, however, you are sure that yours is a 12g model, yet it has a small hole opposite the spring insertion side, I wouldnt worry about it too much. Offhand, I cant see how this will have any negative effects. If you are concerned, I would either contact the place you bought it from or Nordic Components. Ask them the same question and see what they have to say. Maybe its just an updated design and the pics you are seeing are of the older model. To all the others who mentioned the useless need of this component, I personally had a fairly good reason for going with this NC follower. This would be because I have installed their +2 mag extension which came with a much longer and slightly different spring. For this reason, I felt compelled to use a follower that was designed to be used with these components. Completely necessary? Probably not. But, seeing as how the stock follower was designed for stock springs, I figured Id use aftermarket with aftermarket. Trust me, I know that aftermarket items are, at times, not what they are advertised to be. This is why I pay particular attention to, as mentioned before, function testing my shotgun on a regular basis.

Thats why its ALWAYS good to function test the weapon, any weapon, on a regular basis. This applies to weapons with bone stock components or add-ons.