StrangerDanger

The IWC setup is the lightest and it is hard to beat the ergonomics of the oem handguard. Now, if you are set on a rail, I’d use the 13” Briley rail so that you can mount the light as far forward as possible to eliminate the barrel shadowing issue. You’d be stuck using a tape switch which sucks. Most switches are damage prone garbage which have poor tactile control. Even expensive ones like the Taps switches were meh. I am trying a Unity Tactical pad right now which works pretty well. They can be hard to find in stock though. I’m moving into a new realm right now for the M4. I just bought. White phosphorous L3 Harris M914A PVS14 monocular to hunt samsquanches in the dark. I think I’m going to set one of the M4’s up with an IR light/laser.

This might work for you. These guys sell a riser that you can sandwich between the RMR/SRO and the Sync rail. They have two height options, but realistically you could stack them if you wanted some specific height. You might have to source some extra long screws or trim the long ones to make everything work. https://reptiliacorp.com/product/rof-riser-for-trijicon-rmr/

The Wolff trigger pack springs are the same weight as factory. Wolff makes better springs than the factory sources. They don't take a set as quick as the OEM ones doe. The carriercomp/Wolff magazine spring is the best option out there for the M4 for many of those reasons. The oem magazine spring is hot garbage.

Go in with sugar rather than spite. TTI has been known to tell people TFB. I hate dealing with them. The only thing I buy from them anymore are these handles. Plus my daughter teases me when we watch John Wick that they should have used one of my M4's instead of that TTI edition M4.

Agreed Redneck. The hammer is much easier to keep the file straight on. You want a file with a safe edge so you can hold it against the body of the hammer without doing any damage while you take a few thousandths off the disconnector sear engagement on the hammer. You go slow with the trigger pack assembled so that you can cock the hammer and see how close you are to clearing. Release the hammer and take a few more licks off. It'll move from hanging up all the time to hanging up until you press on the hammer, to passing right by the sear hook unless the trigger is pulled to the rear.

That’s unacceptable. I’d call and get them to replace it. Taran must be busy plowing Instagram models.

For a long time the anodizing had an OD green hue to it. Some Italian running the anodizing tank must not have washed his hands.

Nice house Ruger! I agree, I use a Lead Sled myself for sighting in shotguns and rifles.

Hmmm... What I would do is put the muzzle down on a piece of paper, then trace around the outer diameter of the barrel. Try to keep the muzzle as flush as possible to the paper. Then without moving the shotgun look thru the optic and plot the dot point onto the paper. The position of this dot will depend on where you have the optic sighted. Then I’d find the centerline of the barrel to plot your center, then measure the distance from the center to your plot point of your optic.

Tango Arms does a lot of the stippling. They have a couple different pattern styles available. https://www.tangoarms.com/products/benelli-m4-stippling

Divorce is expensive because it’s worth it! There are a bunch of guns I have sold that I’m glad to be rid of.

The mounting solution for the Hayle sucks. It needs set screws to keep it from wiggling. Some users have made it fit better by using RTV at the contact points. I have never handled a Briley rail. But it seems it mounts up solid since the original release. If going that route I’d get the 13” model to push the light as far forward as possible to minimize barrel shadowing. Then route the switch back to something Unity Tactical makes for a pressure switch. Assuming you can find one in stock.

Unobanium mocked one up a while ago on an IWC mount. I have never handled one to see how the foot attaches to the IWC, but it appears the pattern matches the Scout Light spacing? If I had to guess, their picatinny rail can be removed from the body kind of like a Scout light. It doesn’t appear that there is any interference from the tailcap on Unobtainium’s mock up. C6B2E786-F998-4439-93EB-505496C92C27.webp

Stock front sight size for reference. This one has ToolTech Trijicon lamps installed.

Correct on the intent that you’re supposed to cover your target with the tritium dot. You might have enough adjustment in the rear sight to lower the rear sight enough to sight it in to use the top edge of the front sight. Looking at your photo, that thing is huge. The width alone takes up a good amount of the front sight hood. This paired with an optic is too busy for me personally. I figure even if my optic broke or was obstructed with blood or dirt, I could still put rounds on target a 12 gauge distances. This is also why I advocate the 1moa dot size. Smaller the dot, smaller the target obstruction. On a rifle or shotgun with a good cheek weld, I have never hunted for the dot in the optic like can happen on a handgun platform. So I see zero advantage for the larger dots.

It varies from 3, 5, 7, 10 and 15 yards. Each stage is timed. Some from the holster, others from the ready position. There is at least one mandatory reload within the time allotted.

I know! Pathetic! can’t pit an ace at a 1000 yards like all the other guys on the internet!

On my CCW and duty Glock 19 gen 4, I ended up buying a set of the Trijicon HD’s, but found the front sight height to be wrong. I have a Ransom Rest which confirmed this. The groups were about 3-4” high at 15 yards. I was always grouping low with the traditional top of the front sight blade hold. At closer ranges I transition to the cover the X with the tritium dot hot to account for parallax. To make this sight height work, you’d have to align the rear sight tritium with the top edge of the front sight which was really awkward. The Trijicon set comes with a front sight that is .215” high. So I bought a .245” high front. This has helped me significantly. 50 round Arizona quals from last year:

Those XS sights are designed to be used so you put the tritium dot completely over the X of your target rather than the top edge of the front sight post. I have a set for a Glock 36 when they were named Ashley big dots. That might be why they’re a little taller. They were great for easy pick up and speed, but terrible for accuracy beyond minute of man. The front sight blade was also much wider than the oem ones so you obstruct a lot of the target. The big dots were designed more for room distances to contact shots. Push a B27 out to 15 yards and that dot obstructs the 8 ring in. For me, the perceived speed in target alignment wasn’t worth the accuracy penalty. If I shot the G36 more, I’d probably install a different set of sights. That’s just my personal preference though. I’d be happy to hear your results on the M4 though.

You shouldn’t have any issues since the SRO sits a little higher than the RMR. Now, how much you can see the irons thru the optic may be less than ideal for the same reason. We’ve been removing iron sights a lot when using a RDS optic. It cuts weight and reduced sight picture clutter.

The weight spec is probably fine with that thread locker the screws are supplied with. I believe the oem top rail screws torque spec is 12-14 inch pounds. This isn’t very tight and those screws only have those lock washers. You could put a witness mark on the visible screws with a silver Sharpie. You just put a thin strip from the screw head onto the rail. That way if the screw moves, you’ll see the strip has moved and it’ll be out of clock.

I snug the two hidden screws up until I cannot slide the the rail into place. Then I back them off a little at a time until the rail just slides on. I use blue Loctite 243 on these. I rub a small amount on the base of the rail which glues the rail to the receiver once dry. It’s easy to remove if needed, usually a light whap with a rubber mallet will knock it free. Once the rail is on by these two hidden screws, install the two that are visible with Loctite. Seat your optic with the battery installed. Install the two screws that came from Scalarworks with Loctite. Done.

All of the M4’s I have bought and received as a FFL have come disassembled? The boxes interior is set up for them to come in pieces. You would not want them to be fully assembled. Things like the bolt handle will punch thru the side of the box and do damage when the boxes are smashed in shipment.

New production military M4’s will also get the polymer trigger frame. The A&S Engineering one is a solid replacement. They copied the oem aluminum frame mostly so it doesn’t have that stupid blocking that cover the hammer.

Seek some professional training. Some training is boring and may be below your personal skill level. It’s ok to go thru the basics. Instilling safety habits early is paramount. I’m a certified pistol instructor, and you’d be amazed at how many safety mistakes I see during a class. Endless amounts of sweeping people with muzzles. Sweeping themselves. Loaded or unloaded, it’s frowned upon. You want to build a mindset that prevents you from ever sweeping anyone unless you intend to points gun at them. With training, you’ll feel a physical reaction to intentionally pointing a firearm at someone. You’ll find you keep your finger off the trigger or spray bottles and electric drill guns. I hate teaching big classes. Which to me is anything over 5 people at a time. I like a hands on approach where we fire 1-3 rounds, approach the target and assess what they’re doing. Attempt to correct what is wrong and try again. Blue tape over the holes so we don’t get lost on the next set. I agree most of the YouTube channels are full of crap. They may pay lip service to safety and training regiments, but it isn’t the primary focus. Their focus is to tell you to like and subscribe several times to their entertainment based channel.