StrangerDanger

It’s likely rolling because of how low on the stock it is. The top is rolling away right?

I’m a fan of a good sling on every rifle and shotgun. I’ve used Blue Force Gear two point padded slings. I’d adjust the sling so that when the adjustment strap is pulled tight, the shotgun will be cinched tight against your body. That way you can go hands free and not have it flopping around. If you’re right handed, I'd connect the sling to the rear socket on the ejection port side of the weapon. Connecting to the outside helps control the roll of the weapon.

Clean install. IWC also makes a few different types of QD sockets with anti rotation spots.

Good deal - looking forward to seeing what you are fabricating.

Have you tried to contacting ATI to see if they have any of the tools, or can point you towards a source?

I don't think you could cut enough spring to make up that difference. If you measure the length of each shell, you can get an idea of what 7 of them stacked would measure out to. Then compare it to say those Winchester or Federal Valuepack 2 3/4 shells that should fit.

No issues leaving the spring retainer out. It might buy you about 0.05" of extra length. I'm not sure if you're using a OEM or aftermarket spring. I've never had to cut the spring of a Carriercomp/Wolff spring. When trimming the spring, the problem becomes the last round in the magazine tube is anemic and can cause failures to feed. So be really careful with this.

You shouldn't have to trim any of the spring, the usual culprit is the ammunition itself. Try another brand of ammo to see if you can get seven rounds in her. Even though shells claim to be 2 3/4", many of them are not exactly within that spec. Sometimes you can get a little extra room in the magazine tube by sliding the spring retainer out so it protrudes past the end of the magazine tube, then reinstall the magazine cap. The cap will press the spring retainer down as far as it needs. This may give you a fraction of an inch more room from where the retainer is currently set.

They're pretty heavy and bulky. I find the rail placement points to be poorly positioned.

Had that happen to our old M121 back in the 90's. Benelli will take care of you.

Any aftermarket components used? Ie: GG&G boot release?

They did rerelease the M1014 without the specialized serial numbers. I doubt we’ll see any kind of anniversary model - they aren’t Beretta!

I recommend everyone let Geissele know that they want these items brought back. I shoot them an email about every 3 or 4 months. I was surprised the value climbed as high as it has. I was buying them up at the 150 dollar price point for upper end builds until they dried up. 300+ is too rich for my blood. We’d see similar trial by combat with bat’leth’s if a carriercomp bolt knob appeared for sale.

I haven't handled there's, yet.

I have seen several sell at this price point in the last year. So it’s what the market will bare. They are the absolute best hammer out there. They don’t deform like the OEM and FFT hammers from impacting on the along the face where it makes contact with the bolt carrier. If you shoot the M4 a lot, you’ll start to see the hammer face deform, I have posted pictures of this in the past. The sear engagement is larger and provides for a really nice safe hammer release. It’s geissele quality in the golden era of Geissele. It’s going to be tough to beat. They’re super rare these days, I only see a handful pop up for sale here and there. I mix them in with FFT components, I’ve even plated a few in NP3 to make them even better. I kick myself for not clearing out an online store who had 13 a few years back.

Thanks for the kind words. It’s more of a hobby to me than a get rich quick scheme. I’m an amateur lathe operator, but this kind of work is quick and painless.

If you decide to go the M600 intellibeam route, I can do the machine work free of charge - just cover the cost of shipping. This goes for the lamp head and the tailcap. If you wanted them painted, just pay whatever cost that comes out to be. It’s pretty cheap actually. A trip there and back in the mail is the bulk of the painting price, and most of the wait. Machining the tailcap isnt necessary when using the IWC Benelli M4 Mount, but it helps keep you from jamming your thumb under recoil. The lamp head still must be machined for the IWC. Machining these parts is probably a 15 minutes job for both pieces with setup. It does suck spending money chasing these improvements. Even with the latest and greatest, I’m not 100% happy with the results. I hate the barrel shadowing and am actively trying to find a solution.

I agree he’s better off upgrading. Right now you could probably sell your old mount off for 75 - 90 bucks. You’d be in another 70 or so for the IWC M600 body. Most then buy a Surefire Scout light of whatever flavor you like. Personally I’m using the M600 Intellibeam units at 600 lumens. The lamp head has to be machined to fit for either the Ava or the IWC mounts. I’ll gladly machine any parts you need to make the light of your choice fit on my lathe. Ie: tailcaps and/or lamp heads. I know a few Cerakote places that can paint the parts afterwards if cosmetics are an issue.

What if you used one of those rubberized paints or the do it yourself spray on bedliner’s in the automotive section of vatozone? I’m not sure how well roughing it up with a file will work. I think the recoil will defeat the skateboard tape’s adhesive.

Appreciate the comments. Glad the write up’s have helped.

The original Ava mount won’t work with the Scout body or the aftermarket units. Back when I was using them, I would use Surefire E2L Outdoorsman, then I’d stick a higher output Scout lamp on it.

IWC says they do the same. I’ve had zero issue with them and they offer a unique foot mounting solution. It allows for micro adjustments fore and aft, and side to side. This only applies when using them on traditional mounts or say the IWC Benelli M4 Mount. For kicks, I sent in several to Robar and had them plated in Np3. I was concerned about the coating, but it was a non-issue and they work fine.

The IWC M300 or M600 light bodies are a better choice then the Surefire Scout bodies.

If you’re after pistons and plugs, the cheapest route would be to buy someone’s 18.5 that frequently pop up for like 400-450. Take the plugs and piston then resell the barrel for like 300-350.

There are some ways that they could have went to avoid set screws. The set screw direction is the laziest cheapest method and appears to have been an afterthought when they realized it didn’t lock up tight. These extrusions are cut to length and then some final machining is then performed to the rail. The easiest method would be for them to supply a handguard retainer that was compressible. Rely more on the tension applied from the magazine cap instead of lateral retention from the stamped steel handguard retainer.