benelliwerkes

It's a bad idea.

For those interested in a size comparison.

My 2 cents. I think the Micro T-1 is better proportioned for the M4 and it easily covers the reasonable engagement range for the M4. The CompM4S seems too large on the Benelli M4; it seems better suited for the carbine platform, especially when combined with its 3x Magnifier.

The ergonomics with the offset are good, not great; better than the linear rail but not as nice as a dedicated substituted forend rail. The dissatisfaction of the ergonomics for me is my left thumb has to be lifted off the grip because the rail is in the way, causing my thumb to be pointing lateral to the axis of sight, rather than along the axis of sight in a more natural shooting grip; furthermore, the forward groove depression molded into the stock grip, is where most operators thumbs would most likely naturally be placed (probably why they put it there !); adding any rail demands it is located further rearward than optimal ergonomics for hand placement which in turn forces the back of the light to be closer than I like, meaning UNnaturally flexing the thumb into position (rather than extending the thumb) to activate the light switch. Just my thoughts. The changing radii of the forward grip makes mounting the linear rails farther forward impossible and still have it look nice (there would be a big gap under the rail unless some shady tree shim was fabricated to obliterate it). The Gear Sector however, already has the attachment base in a nearly identical radius as the mounting point on the forend, which allows for it to be placed pretty far forward. I only posted these to maybe give those considering such an undertaking, some additional ideas before picking up the drill. These are just some prototypes I was screwing around with to see how they might work; If I get around to taking the "real" rails off my M4's I'll take some photos. How hard could it be for Benelli to offer a single molded rail like the offset deal ? As an optional left hand guard substitute ?

The 2 image limit posting rule has to go. This style T nut works well.

For those with just a modicum of fabricating talent, here are some additional ideas for Direct mounting to the polymer item. The various length linear polymer rails are easy to attach, however in my opinion, the unused rail portion interferes with a natural grip for the operator. The offset rail is sufficient to mount a light and lacks the disability of interfering with the grip of the operator. Using "T" nuts to secure the Torx plus fasteners have a number of advantages over the alternative of a combination of washers / nuts on the inside of the forend.

They are available now....just my 2 cents

The CarrierComp BLACK charging handles are well worth the wait. Not bling, but a must upgrade to finish the M4 functionality as it should have been. As always, fit and finish is flawless from Kip. Thanks for the nice product.

Troy sights are good and have the features you seek. AR-15/M16 FOLDING BATTLE REAR SIGHTS - Brownells

Good photos and seems to be a fair review....still looks big !

One more example of cross-decking the Aimpoint options.

As mentioned above, the versatility of the Comp4S can be expanded by also using it on other platforms with / without the Aimpoint 3X magnifier on a swing mount; with the QD zero mounts it only takes a few seconds to swap them around.

Hookster, I haven't used the SRS but have had it in my hands and it seemed "clunkier" than the market competitor which I chose. The SRS was just a little to round and stocky aesthetically, which was collaborated by the spec sheets when comparing the SRS to the Aimpoint Comp4S (low battery position)......the SRS weighs about 2 ounces more and is almost an inch wider than the Comp4. The Comp4 also has no-parallax effect, if you "see the dot-shoot the shot"......the SRS does not make any claims regarding the parallax on their red dot system....I suspect the marketing absence of bragging about it means the answer is no. I am not sure either the SRS or the Comp4 add functionality over the Aimpoint T-1 when mounted on the Benelli M4. Also, a anti-reflex kill flash is available for the Comp4, as shown, and the Comp4 can be used in combination with the 3X magnifier when cross-decked to over platforms. These might help. I too would like to see the SRS mounted on the M4 if anyone has some photos.

There needs to be some clarification on this "stand behind your gun" notion. First, the OP is inquiring about the operation of the M4, a gas-direct piston cycling system for operating the bolt mechanism. If the the ammunition being used generates sufficient pressure into the piston system, then how the gun is held is irrelevant as to whether the bolt cycling mechanism will work properly.....that's the beauty of a gas system; point the weapon around a corner, no shoulder mount, and fire away ! If the platform under discussion is for example a Benelli M1 / M2 inertia bolt mechanism (i.e. non-gas system) and assume a cartridge sufficient to induce the required velocity as outlined in their respective manuals, then laws of physics actually require some, albeit small amount of rearward movement of the gun in recoil process for theses guns to cycle properly.....that is, if the butt stock is held against a solid wall or the ground, or too many accessories are added to the weight of the gun, no rearward movement of the gun relative to the bolt can occur (that's why it's called an "inertia bolt") which is why such a mechanism can demonstrate cycling "failures" when the gun is held in a shooting rest, or as above, against any other non-moveable object.In this instance, good shooting posture is commendable, but actually too rigid a hold may in itself cause a cycling problem. In a similar fashion to the Benelli inertia bolt systems, direct blow-back semi-auto pistols require a fairly rigid hold to allow the slide to recoil about the "fixed" frame; when the operator "limp wrists", often times a cycling malfunction will occur and the cause is incorrectly attributed to the ammunition and not the incorrect operator hold of the gun. Whereas firing a Desert Eagle or a HK M7P13 (both gas systems), limp-wristing poor technique is irrelevant to the proper cycling of the pistol. There's a reason why the military converted to the gas operated M4 system, this is just one important distinction, and it is not related to standing behind the gun. This is from the M1 / M2 manuals and there is no reason to have similar information in the M4 manual.

The spade style works nicely when you have attended to details of fitting. My preferred tool for the job is this one I fabricated; it fits the square slots and the circular base fits flush / square on the retaining nut to absolutely prevent any slippage that might mar the screw slots.

That tip will work in a pinch, but the first time removing the screw, it is very tight, so a heat gun and a well-fitted screwdriver tip is ideal. The magna-tip edge is beveled backwards for the beveled slots in the screw. A square driver allows complete contact with the screw slot engagement. Here's another plan to consider....

I use the Mesa sidesaddles on some of my guns.....I use the SideArmor sidesaddle's on the Benelli's; the SideArmor has a ball bearing detent to impose tension on the cartridge for retention, whereas the Mesa has a rubber insert to impose friction for cartridge retainer. Both are billet aluminum construction. The SideArmor is the benchmark in my opinion for what it's worth. Many times, the "issues" with Mesa sidesaddles, and others that use a receiver cross bolt / ejector screw substitution(s) for a trigger group retaining pins, is that the end-user tightens the screws too tight!! which interferes (i.e. compresses the sides of the receiver) with the smooth mechanical action slide bars on pump guns / and the movement of the bolt group on semi-autos; properly installed / tensioned, they should work fine. Here's some Mesa applications on a Rem 870 SBS & Mossberg 590A1 SBS:

I use a variety of snap ring pliers....the heavy duty ones include NAPA tool #3151 internal / external snap ring; Snap-On makes a good one as well....good tools are not cheap.....but neither is / are screwed up Benelli parts ! I use the heavy duty ones with slightly modified tips, to get them closely appose each other, for tasks such as the snap ring on the hammer pivot axle.

It is an idiotic method on a number of different levels; most importantly, it jeopardizes your fingers from being skewered by the extractor as the bolt slams forward....after the cartridge is in the portal, simply applying pressure on the bolt latch with the palmar surface of your finger(s) completes the task quite easily in a conventional fashion....what numbnuts prefers to have a "foot race" between the bolt moving forward and you removing your fingers from path of harm's way ?

For heavier applications like scope mounting etc, I use the Weaver torque screwdriver or the digital 1/4" drive Snap-On.

These are the adapters I have for the Wiha, which is the 7.5-20 in/lb; the specifications are +/- 6 % accuracy. This is what I use for light applications e.g.grip screws for aluminum alloy Sig frames, custom 1911 grip screws etc......it seems everyone is always stripping their frame threads ! For heavier applications like scope mounting etc, I use the Weaver torque screwdriver or the digital 1/4" drive Snap-On. model.

I would only add that if there is a disadvantage to the Magna-tip system, it is that there is always a few hundredths of "wiggle" between the inserted tip and the handle being used; when there is no room for wiggle room error, I like the fixed blade system or fabricate a hollow ground screwdriver to fit as needed.

The Wiha vario-torque is a good choice for installing gun grip screws and other gentle applications such as the Benelli rail; with multiple tips available, it is compatible with the Magna-Tip system. Installing the rail screws: 1. Remember the receiver is aluminum; it is easy to strip the threads with a steel screw, so make sure they are not cross-threaded; be gentle. 2. Use a dab of Blue Loctite on the screws, you only have ~ 2.5 mm of thread engagement available in the receiver. 3. Torque the screws to 8.5 INCH-pounds. 4. Use a proper size screw driver tip to avoid marring the screw slots.

One more reason Californians will never get forward grips....time to call the moving van ! California sheriff's deputies accused of illegally selling weapons | Fox News