Evolution

No the mag tube has never loosened from when I installed it. I always crank the nut down as tight as it can be, but after a shooting session it has always loosened some. The spring loaded cap plunger is normal in operation. I can feel the caps's teeth engaging it as I tighten it down however as it is being tightened, it feels rather mushy. It's definitely because the coil spring that engages the front of the hand guards is being compressed. Should there be a millimeter or two gap between the barrel ring and the face of the receiver before you begin to tighten the cap nut? Or are the hand guards a bit too long? That spring does need to exert pressure on the front of the guards, otherwise they would be loose.

Hi all. I have an H20 M4 with a FFT NP3 coated mag tube and I notice that the nut on the end of the mag is loosened after a firing session. I did a search here and could not come up with anything, so I'm posting a new thread. I'm wondering if it is because they coated the threads for the nut and the extra lubricity of the NP3 coating on the threads is allowing the nut to loosen slightly during firing. Or is this a normal occurrence? Way back when I bought my 7 round tube CC did not offer their "muted finish" titanium tube, only parkerized versions, so I went with the FFT NP3 tube to match the gun. Thoughts? Anyone else have this happen? EDITED TO ADD; I found 2 old threads on this forum about this subject. One from 2009 and one from 2012. The one from 2009 has a few people saying that it is normal and has occurred with every Benelli shotgun that they have owned. http://forum.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/20404-End-cap-coming-unthreaded-when-firing The one from 2012; http://forum.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/29395-Severe-M4-Problems A few people asked if the OP was using aftermarket hand guards and that they might be too long. The OP was using OEM guards. The thing that a couple people said was that if the hand guards are a tad too long that the barrel is not fully seated into the receiver and would cause the tube nut to loosen. Well, I'm using the OEM guards too and I notice with them installed before I start to tighten the nut, there is about a millimeter gap between the barrel's receiver ring and the face of the receiver which closes down under pretty decent pressure as I tighten the nut. When installing the barrel assembly without the guards, the barrel's receiver ring slaps right down onto the face of the receiver without any gap and obviously no resistance tightening the nut. So my question is, should there be a small gap when the guards are installed and the nut tightens the final gap of a millimeter or so between the barrel ring and receiver face? Or should the barrel ring sit down flush against the receiver face before you start tightening the nut? I just noticed looking at the barrel assembly that there is a very stout flat coil spring that seats against the front of the hand guards which causes the pressure and the millimeter gap between the barrel ring and the receiver face. It seems to me that, in a way, there should be pressure on the hand guards placed on them by tightening the mag nut so they don't feel loose but, I don't know. Maybe I should carefully remove some material from the front of the guards until the barrel ring just barely sets down flush on the receiver's face BEFORE the nut is tightened allowing the spring to exert only minimal pressure.

Good for you and welcome to the cadre of do-it-yourself mag tube installers! When I did mine, I first tried a regular 1500W hair dryer on it and that did the trick so I didn't have to buy anything.

Replacing that particular part on an M4 is a waste of money. Stick the OEM part back in and be happy. A seven round mag tube is all that is necessary to mod on these guns along with a couple US made parts to make them compliant. Really people, you don't have to do something to it because the next guy thinks it's better or looks cooler. It's a superlative gun as it is.

I was concerned before I did mine after reading about all those who had a nightmare doing it but, mine loosened and unscrewed quite easily using a hair dryer. Granted, it was a Conair "TURBO" dryer.

Well, it wasn't broke but, I attempted to fix it anyway. Ya know how it is...I just HAD to try it for myself. So, I recently found that Benelli had one left in stock and I bought it. I put it on and promptly took it off and put the PG stock back on for two reasons. One is that for some reason the when grasping the wrist in my hand and putting my finger on the trigger, it just felt very awkward. Not comfy at all, very unnatural. I don't know if it's the angle of the wrist in relation to the receiver or what but, that just sucked. The other reason is that when drawing the gun up to my cheek, (maybe) because of the lower drop on the comb of the stock or something, I had to adjust my head around in order to acquire the sights. That sucked too. With the PG stock, as soon as I draw the gun up to my head, and place my cheek to the stock, the sights are immediately acquired without having to move my head at all...they are simply right there. My hand grasp on the PG to trigger is very comfortable and natural for me. So, it's the PG stock for me, no question anymore. The field stock is back in it's box and in the safe and that's most likely where it's going to stay.

Um yeah, why would you want to?

Yep....they all sell them but, all of them have been sold out for a while now. I don't like ebay for such things as I don't completely trust buying something like this off of it as BNIB. I guess I'll just have to keep checking the usual suppliers to see when they have 'em back in stock.

Yep, over indexing (timing) or under indexing a barrel will cause shots to place right or left of POA. Very common problem with the Garand and M14 type rifles. To the OP; Re-reading your post made me realize something (if I understand you correctly). You don't want to try and match your iron sights to the zero of your optic, not that you would even be able to match them, (the optic has waay more adjustment) but rather, the irons will be set to a zero for the gun, and then when using your optic, it will have it's own separate zero for the gun. If you were trying to match them to each other, no wonder you ran out of adjustment on the rear sight platform.

I don't believe it's in the manual but, that is how it should be done on a weapon that has a lateral adjustment on the front sight. Always start first with the front sight so your rear is kept at mechanical zero, to use just for temporary windage adjustment, then return it to mechanical zero (centered). That way, you will have the full range of the rear sight adjustment either left or right as needed.

The way that you zero the windage is the way that you do it for an M1 Garand or M14 rifle. First loosen the front sight post and move it to the right or left depending on point of impact. You move the front sight in the opposite direction that you need to move the POI. For example if your shots are going to the left of POA, you would move the front sight post to the left to move POI to the right. If your shots are going to the right of POA, you would move the post to the right to move the POI to the left. That way your rear sight should be able to remain indexed in the middle, thereby enabling you have the full range of windage adjustment in either direction. HTH. edit; on a Garand or M14 moving the front sight post .008 will move POI approx. 1" at 100 yards. There is not nearly as much lateral adjustment available on an M4 front sight post as there is on the rifles I have mentioned but, it can move some.

Hi fellas. Trying to find a NIB M4 field stock but they seem to be as rare as hens teeth, any leads?

Why not order direct from FFT? That's where I got mine. I don't think that CC offers an NP3 coated mag. tube. At least they didn't when I was looking.

Bravo! Nice work. If there is anything that I can think of to improve the M4, it's removing the sharp edges surrounding the loading port. When I first got mine, I was messing up the skin on my thumb on those edges until I got used to it and perfected my technique. Now I live with it. Mine is an H2O model so doing what you did to yours in not on the table for me, but even if it were a parked receiver, I don't think I'd have the guts to go at it with a file. I would have a machinist with a mill radius the edges off but no filing for me! Nice work!

I don't think so. I think it looks pretty damn cool!

LOL...yea, I just have to get used to inserting the shells with the tip of my thumb on the M4, rather than using the whole pad of the thumb like I can with my 590A1. The opening in the receiver on the 590A1 is about 1/8" wider than on the M4....makes a huge difference.

I'm curious about this piece. What issue exactly does this part remedy? Does the OEM part bite people's thumbs? I only have one issue concerning the loading of my M4 and it's not the carrier, I think. It's the extremely sharp edges of the receiver that hurt the sides of my thumb when inserting shells into the the tube. I have large hands but, not huge like say Hickok 45's hands. I'm assuming that this part does nothing to remedy that?

Yes, check the link provided above. Short answer is; to use a 7 round tube, you need to change 3 parts to USA made. The 7 round mag tube counts as one, the tube follower counts as one, and you can do the forend (hand guard) or hammer to make 3. More applies if you live in a State that allows an collapsable stock, I think. Where did you get the idea that Win. & Rem. are 'bad ammo?' What is meant by that description? It's BS. I shoot any and all american made ammo, slugs and 00 buck with no probs. I AVOID any foreign made ammo in any caliber except NATO military surplus 7.62X51 for my M14 rifles. Some is dirtier than others but, it all works flawlessly in my M4. The only problems that I have read about are posts concerning SOME foreign made shells. FIOCCHI is the one that comes to mind. I buy whatever is the cheapest online price I can find for american made bulk 00 and slugs.

Yep...the Geissele stuff for the M4 particularly, is better than OEM.

I didn't know about the 4 part deal with a collapsable. I live in Ca. and a C stock on a M4 is verboten.

Forgot to mention, a US made full length tube and follower, and a hammer is all you need. 3 parts and it's GTG. I'm pretty sure that's less than $300.00, It's been awhile.

I did it. I did it because I have too much to lose to get caught with an illegal weapon and face federal charges. Probably nobody is ever going to come up to you at a range and demand to inspect your shotgun for compliance. It doesn't happen that way. It happens like an accident or peripheral to some other incident. It's worth the insurance and peace of mind to me. Possessing illegal weapons is not something to scoff at if you value your lifestyle, home, job, etc., etc.

Excellent! Exactly the kind of info that I was looking for. Thank you!

Ok fine. I have the standard PG stock, not the C stock. How does the OEM recoil pad come off?

So, before I order stuff that won't work, I understand that you can install a Limbsaver recoil pad on an M4 pistol grip stock if you install this Noveske adapter plate? Is this the correct recoil pad to use on a pistol grip stock? http://www.nokick.com/Precision_Fit_Pad_Benelli_M1_Tactical_p/ls-10403.htm Anyone do it? Problems? Issues? http://www.shopnoveske.com/collections/parts/products/benelli-recoil-pad-adapter