Evolution

That's nice to know, thanks for posting the test/review. That's good shooting! As I don't hunt, minute of torso is all that I need performance wise but, good to know what these are capable of. What's the stated MV of the rounds you tested? I have two loadings in the Truball, both are their "law enforcement" line. One is a reduced recoil round at 1325 fps and the other is full power at 1600 fps. The other Fed. offering that I have on hand is their "power shok" at 1610 fps advertised and some of their premium 00. Is that "LR" a third loading they have for the Truball? The 1600 fps load I have is marked LEB127 RS on the box. I don't have a box with the reduced recoil shells with me.

Not for me, no use that I can think of but, I won't throw mine away either.

Oh Right! DUH! Myself not being too familiar with the c-stock took me awhile to realize that.

You know, I have to wonder.....there is definitely a hollow space where you have drilled that hole in the backing plate to accommodate the tube, I just pushed on mine with my thumb and it's hollow. Is it possible that the receiver extension is going to jam into your shoulder under recoil and eventually bite through the rubber on the pad?

Nice work! So, in a nutshell.......no matter which Benelli M4 OEM stock that you have, it's the 10403 recoil pad that is the correct one. No additional adaptors are needed for any of them except that with the C-stock, you have to modify the 10403 pad and use different screws to attach it. Just reiterating this because there has been a lot of confusion in the past about which pad fits which stock and if you need a Noveske plate for it. One dealer's website that I have used before even states that the 10403 pad will not fit the pistol grip stock of the M4. Not in exactly the same wording but, you read it and say what you come away thinking. http://www.nokick.com/Precision_Fit_Pad_Benelli_M1_Tactical_p/ls-10403.htm

Thing is, the front sling point attachment on the M4 accommodates a 1-1/4" sling so, why not the rear?!?!

Nice job! Even the the OEM PG and field stocks leave much to be desired with that stupid 1" sling plate they come with. I bought the NOVESKE replacement plate with the QD socket to replace the useless plate that comes in the PG stock. Wonder why they don't supply it with a sling plate to accommodate a 1-1/4" wide sling, which is like 95% of all slings.

I will just live with mine, I'd never attempt to do it myself and besides, mine is NP3 plated and it would have to be redone and I'm not gonna go through all that because of a little discomfort when loading.

By "port" do you mean the loading area? If so, yeah, that area could use some rounding over, it does have sharp edges. StrangerDanger does it or, at least has done it for people in the past.

There is a guy who makes a bolt on trigger shoe for use on the M14 rifle when the rifle is suited with a pistol grip stock as the military uses with them, which apparently makes it much more comfortable for the user. I wonder if it would work on the M4 trigger profile, it's roughly the same as an M14/M1 trigger profile. http://www.athenswater.com/ebr_kit.html I haven't used one because all of my M14 clones are in standard USGI stocks but it's the same idea in principle.

If you mean flat as in the rounded portion of the shoe that the finger rests on then yes, would prob be more comfortable. Also a wider shoe is better and more of a curve to the shoe such as a half moon shape would be desirable. I have never touched the settings since I joined the forum, this is something that just began to occur in the last few days but, I did what you said to do. And it looks like it worked. However, when I go to post or quote a post, it takes a longer than normal time and I get a spinning disk until it takes like someone in another thread said happened when they tried to post pictures. Something is going on and it's not my computer, it's the site itself.

The only complaint that I have ergonomically with the M4 happens to be the trigger shape/size. I find it to be too small and/or possibly because it is curved on the finger pad contact area.Consequently, my finger pad tends to purchase low on the trigger at the bottom of the stem so that it bites or pinches the pad of my finger on firing unless I very consciously keep my finger higher on the stem.The trigger on my 590A1 is much more comfortable to operate. It's stem is wider and also more curved so that the finger is "captured" more by it.So, for me it depends on exactly how the geometry of this new trigger will be changed if I would be interested in one or not.ALSO WOULD SOMEBODY IN ADMIN PLEASE FIX THE GLITCHES GOING ON WITH THIS SITE- NAMELY, THE WALL OF WORDS THAT APPEAR IN POSTS!

What is the complaint with the OEM handle? Frankly, every aftermarket one that I have seen with the tube handles on them look retarded. Sorry, they just look stupid, and the bigger diameter the worse they look. What's the point? The size of the OEM handle offers plenty of purchase.All it takes is one sheep to say baaah and the rest of the sheep follow, lol.The OEM handle stays put when you want it to and comes out when you want it to. When I see the amount of ridiculous and unnecessary bling people throw onto their weapons, I'd hate to see what their houses look like, lol! No taste!

What's to hate? Nice shooting! Must be the cheese grater on the end of the barrel. Whatever is going on with U's shotgun, I don't know but, I don't think it's inherent to all M4's. Iv'e not done any testing for data etc., etc., but mine does not throw flyers like U is experiencing and everything that I have read about them accuracy-wise has been glowing with the exception of his. Also, it seems he no longer has the gun as he stated he is currently M4-less, waiting for his SB M4?

My money is on the ammo causing the huge POI shift.

That makes sense. And so.....? Whats's that got to do with steel Vs Ti in this context? Wouldn't that be more important in a longer barrel and tube than a shorter version? Again, wouldn't the length of the barrel & tube be more critical the longer it is? The shorter the barrel and tube, the less bending moment there is. And honestly, I don't see much in the way of heat transfer to the mag tube as it only makes contact with the barrel via the two heavy hangers. So I don't understand your concern about heat? Sorry but, your answers seem rather cryptic to me at least, without really explaining your theory behind these suppositions as to what negative effects that you're trying to avoid.

Just barrels and also complete guns for sale on GB. As far as the legal hurdles that you must jump over to own/buy a complete SBS, or what's involved if you want to swap barrels, I can't answer that, I just know that there are some to jump. These guys who have them can explain it I'm sure. Don't own any NFA classed weapons and probably never will.

Hey, wait a minute.....DrillYo Own lowers make a damn fine toilet paper holder.

They're FFT.....

But, just so I understand, we're talking about cocking the hammer with the safety on. Not cycling it with the safety on AFTER the hammer has been cocked. So, if your hammer is forward, uncocked, and you put the safety on and then attempt to cock the hammer, there is no resistance?

Curious, how much weight does a titanium mag tube shave off?

Heresy! Using a combat shotgun for trap!!??

Nice! Thanks for sharing. I like everything you've done but, I can't get past that door breacher MB thing. Do you think that you need that? IMHO, I think that with the operating system that the M4 has, recoil is pretty tame, relatively. All I need is a Limbsaver recoil pad and I'm GTG.

+1 on all you said. Probably they all were polymer trigger housings in those guns that you tried and, as pointed out by Unobtainium, they will give some while the metal ones will not.

Thank you sir!