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CMM Bolt Release Test


Unobtanium
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Well, it arrived. In all the pictures online, it is vaunted as the "cheaper alternative to the GG&G". Yeah, well cheaper is right.

 

Unlike the online photos, the bolt that holds the pad on is NOT recessed flush. It extends above the pad and is not recessed at all.

 

Further, there is nothing to prevent the pad from swiveling. I tightened the thing as tight as possible (had not installed it, was just testing it before taking the time), and tried to spin it. I could without much trouble. This after tightening the thing enough to round-off my little allen-wrench (the bolt used did not round, +1 for it. My GG&G bolt rounded along with my allen wrench, however, the GG&G is machined along with the included bolt-release in such a way that it CANNOT swivel.).

 

Obviously a 1" long pad getting sideways could cause some problems due to its location.

 

Pass.

 

However--not all is lost. I have a Benelli M4 bolt-release that is drilled and tapped beautifully for a 4-40 screw. I belive Nordic Component's bolt-release uses just such a screw, and their bolt-release is circular. There is no way to "rotate" it other than it comes loose. In fact, JB-weld *could* be used to initize the pad and the bolt, however, I think that is over-kill. It is $14. Over-all, I will have a bolt-release that will not mar my finish, will not look like it was made for Ray Charles, and will not have the abrasive edges that the GG&G has, all for about $85 including shipping.

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Well, it arrived. In all the pictures online, it is vaunted as the "cheaper alternative to the GG&G". Yeah, well cheaper is right.

 

Unlike the online photos, the bolt that holds the pad on is NOT recessed flush. It extends above the pad and is not recessed at all.

 

Further, there is nothing to prevent the pad from swiveling. I tightened the thing as tight as possible (had not installed it, was just testing it before taking the time), and tried to spin it. I could without much trouble. This after tightening the thing enough to round-off my little allen-wrench (the bolt used did not round, +1 for it. My GG&G bolt rounded along with my allen wrench, however, the GG&G is machined along with the included bolt-release in such a way that it CANNOT swivel.).

 

Obviously a 1" long pad getting sideways could cause some problems due to its location.

 

Pass.

 

However--not all is lost. I have a Benelli M4 bolt-release that is drilled and tapped beautifully for a 4-40 screw. I belive Nordic Component's bolt-release uses just such a screw, and their bolt-release is circular. There is no way to "rotate" it other than it comes loose. In fact, JB-weld *could* be used to initize the pad and the bolt, however, I think that is over-kill. It is $14. Over-all, I will have a bolt-release that will not mar my finish, will not look like it was made for Ray Charles, and will not have the abrasive edges that the GG&G has, all for about $85 including shipping.

 

Thanks for the report Uno! I'd been thinking about the CMM but I guess I'll save the $

 

Thanks,

 

Hookster :)

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I know that StrangerDanger has remarked about the face surface of the GG&G being very aggressive, to the point of easily skinning knuckles etc.

 

Yep, I draw back the bolt by inverting my hand and using my pinkie. It is the same concept as inverting your hand to slam 4th gear in a 6-speed. It promotes a more neutral straight-back pull. The GGG skins knuckles like this.

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Thanks for the report Uno! I'd been thinking about the CMM but I guess I'll save the $

 

Thanks,

 

Hookster :)

 

Not a total-loss, as I said, I have the NC button coming, and while I am not sure what thread the screw is for it, I know the CMM is 4-40, and so I purchased a 4-40 machine screw (flat-edge driven, which I prefer over Hex for a 1-time application such as this, as the flat-edge allows more torque in such a small size without deforming). I have soaked it in bluing remover, that stuff went CRAZY! over whatever was on it, and now it is in a superblack bluing formula. The thing is JET black. Looks great. Removed it from the solution, wiped off the extra bluing/corrosion, air-dried, wiped in 70% alcohol (what the alcohol wipes I have from the hospital are), and painted it with Estes jet-black enamel paint. Looks wonderful, and considering the environment it will be in (enclosed on all sides and air-tight with loctite, it should do perfectly.

 

I will have a bolt-release full of epic win for less than the GG&G unless I have completely somehow missed the boat on this one.

Edited by Unobtanium
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You are certainly are blazing the trail in reviews of M4 stuff. Thank you for that.

 

Just bought some stuff and like/dislike it and give impartial accounts of my experience. Hopefully more people will do the same and money can be saved/purchasers will get what they are expecting, more of the time. I was very non-plussed that the screw for the CMM button isn't recessed at all as EVERY advertising photo of it CLEALY shows it as being a recessed screw. Observe: http://www.tacticalshotgunner.com/popup_add_image.php?pID=226 . And that was what I was expecting. However, what did I get? Not that. One can argue all day long whether or not the GG&G is worth $120, but I will say it is twice as well thought out as the CMM counterpart, for whatever that's worth.

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Great review. No anti-rotation ridges? Fail.

 

At first handling the GG&G, it doesn't seem that aggressive. But when you drag your knuckles across it when working the bolt handle, it will cheese grate your knuckles or the side of your fingers. If you're not running the weapon hard and fast, you'll never run into this issue.

I use it as motivation to never run out of shells. If you're not shooting, you should be topping off.

 

I've been considering coating the outer side of the pad with that rubberized tool handle dip.

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Great review. No anti-rotation ridges? Fail.

 

At first handling the GG&G, it doesn't seem that aggressive. But when you drag your knuckles across it when working the bolt handle, it will cheese grate your knuckles or the side of your fingers. If you're not running the weapon hard and fast, you'll never run into this issue.

I use it as motivation to never run out of shells. If you're not shooting, you should be topping off.

 

I've been considering coating the outer side of the pad with that rubberized tool handle dip.

 

If you aren't running the weapon hard/fast, you don't need an enlarged bolt-release. Fail.

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I am working on a one off carbon fiber pad for my M1 super 90. I plan to drill and tap the factory "button" and install a Carbon Fiber pad, and pin to keep it from rotating. We will see how it goes.

 

Sounds like a good plan, I did a similar thing with stainless steel for my M2. Post it up when you get done, I'd be really interested in seeing how the anti-rotation pin turns out. My pad does rotate slightly but its not very easy, however I've been thinking about doing something to make sure it doesn't rotate.

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Sounds like a good plan, I did a similar thing with stainless steel for my M2. Post it up when you get done, I'd be really interested in seeing how the anti-rotation pin turns out. My pad does rotate slightly but its not very easy, however I've been thinking about doing something to make sure it doesn't rotate.

 

Install a circular pad. Unitize it with the screw. Loctite the screw. It will be very unlikely to rotate.

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thats cause you and some of us here have Manly fingers!! next thing we're gonna here is, "my finger hurts when i pull the trigger"..

 

It hurts my finger too!....it also hurts to hold it up because it's too heavy.....then, when I do manage to pull the trigger, it pushes on my shoulder really, really hard and makes a scary noise that hurts my ears and smoke that upsets my delicate nostril tissue and eyes :(

 

It's hard to be gun guy..........:D

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Nordic Comp bolt release pad arrived today. Not impressed with the machining, but it is functional and a lot better than the GG&G and CMM. It also won't mar the reciever with usage. THe bolt is a #6-32, and so I am having my OEM bolt-release drilled/tapped by a local machine-shop tomorrow. In my opinion, couple of rough-edges aside, this is the best/cheapest bolt-release around. $13 for it, and $10 or so to have your OEM one drilled/tapped. Also, it is made of aluminum. It appears to be Type II anodizing, but I won't swear to it. Shouldn't matter, really.

 

Even if the shop butchers 1 OEM bolt-release (which I highly doubt), you can still buy another and try again for less than the GG&G and about the same as the CMM, which is totally full of fail, imho.

 

IF someone disagrees, I will sell them my CMM for $45 shipped w/in CONUS.

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