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Project M1014 is coming together...will update as parts arrive!


Unobtanium
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So far in possession of:

 

 

-Carrier Comp Ti mag tube/spring/follower

-IWC light mount with Surefire M300 300lumen scout

-Aluminum trigger-guard with WOLFF springs throughout

-PG stock with drop-in Limbsaver recoil pad.

-Daves Metal Works safety button

-Scarlarworks Aimpoint Micro SYNC mount.

 

More in the mail...

 

2d8ozeb.jpg

Edited by Unobtanium
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4 RAIL 4.jpg

So far in possession of:

 

 

-Carrier Comp Ti mag tube/spring/follower

-IWC light mount with Surefire M300 300lumen scout

-Aluminum trigger-guard with WOLFF springs throughout

-PG stock with drop-in Limbsaver recoil pad.

-Daves Metal Works safety button

-Scarlarworks Aimpoint Micro SYNC mount.

 

More in the mail...

 

2d8ozeb.jpg

 

Looks like your on your way to building your M1014. Great job!!! Attached is a chart showing the different Benelli configurations. The Benelli M1014 incorporates the 3 position collapsible stock . Attached is a pic of my Benelli M1014. Best of Hope on your M1014 build.

Blessings...

benelli m1014 snippet.JPG

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]3339[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3340[/ATTACH]

 

Looks like your on your way to building your M1014. Great job!!! Attached is a chart showing the different Benelli configurations. The Benelli M1014 incorporates the 3 position collapsible stock . Attached is a pic of my Benelli M1014. Best of Hope on your M1014 build.

Blessings...

Thanks! I prefer the fixed PG stock, as the only purpose for collapsing the C-stock in my case is transportation, which is not an issue regardless for me, thus it's one more moving part I'd rather not deal with, basically. I plan to sell it when the M1014 arrives.

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Thanks! I prefer the fixed PG stock, as the only purpose for collapsing the C-stock in my case is transportation, which is not an issue regardless for me, thus it's one more moving part I'd rather not deal with, basically. I plan to sell it when the M1014 arrives.

 

The reason for the M1014 combat shotgun to have the collapsible stock is to accommodate the extra equipment of the military personal i.e.; flack vest and body armor as well as close quarters combat. It allows the weapon to be configured to an overall shortened length of 35" if need be.

I run a Aimpoint Comp 4 red dot sight. My sight configuration, as you can see from the attached pic, sits high on the rail. I was able to raise the cheek weld on the adjustable stock to accommodate

the height of the sight. I have no problem locating the red dot in the glass 100 % of the time with this custom height configuration I prefer the middle position for home defense . (Slightly shorter than full stock) . I hope that you have as much enjoyment in building your M1014 as I have and continue to have. Enjoy firing it even more at 8 rounds in aproximentally 1 second.

Blessings...

4 RAIL 4.jpg

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The reason for the M1014 combat shotgun to have the collapsible stock is to accommodate the extra equipment of the military personal i.e.; flack vest and body armor as well as close quarters combat. It allows the weapon to be configured to an overall shortened length of 35" if need be.

I run a Aimpoint Comp 4 red dot sight. My sight configuration, as you can see from the attached pic, sits high on the rail. I was able to raise the cheek weld on the adjustable stock to accommodate

the height of the sight. I have no problem locating the red dot in the glass 100 % of the time with this custom height configuration I prefer the middle position for home defense . (Slightly shorter than full stock) . I hope that you have as much enjoyment in building your M1014 as I have and continue to have. Enjoy firing it even more at 8 rounds in aproximentally 1 second.

Blessings...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3341[/ATTACH]

For your situation, the C stock is certainly the best stock. However, I am maintaining the use of irons as possible via a Scalarworks SYNC mount placing the optic on a plane very near the irons. For that, sadly, the C-stock won't work. With my Velocity plates, I run a shooter's cut, so I shouldn't have too much issue there.

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You have your special barrel on order?

The M1014 model actually comes with it. Saves me $1K at the cost of not being compatible with a functional C-stock, and as outlined above...that's a zero-loss trade for me. I bought that fixed PG stock for $99 from Botach, and will sell the C-stock the m1014 arrives with for more, of course. Also, I get the joy of having that little flag on the receiver, which while I know isn't "worth a lot" on the market, I like it and think it's classy.

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I am trading the OEM c stock for some tango arms stippled fore end halves. I really like the look, and remember the OEM being a bit slick. I asked about them, and each set is OEM sourced, and takes 3 hours to stipple.

 

Looks like your making a very fair trade. You will be getting some really nice fore grips. I have the B&T Quad Rail on mine but its nice to know that these manufactures are out there. I really enjoy these sites and appreciate what I learn from Y'all.

Blessings...

 

benelli.jpg

fore grips.JPG

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Looks like your making a very fair trade. You will be getting some really nice fore grips. I have the B&T Quad Rail on mine but its nice to know that these manufactures are out there. I really enjoy these sites and appreciate what I learn from Y'all.

Blessings...

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3344[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3343[/ATTACH]

 

Agreed. My trade was calculated to slant in favor of Tango Arms.

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I am trading the OEM c stock for some tango arms stippled fore end halves. I really like the look, and remember the OEM being a bit slick. I asked about them, and each set is OEM sourced, and takes 3 hours to stipple.

 

Agree 100%. I just got mine from Tango Arms and they are really nice! Great customer service there as well. They Look better than stock and are really grippy. Very nice clean job with the stippling. For those of us do not feel the need to hang rocket launchers, can openers and BBQ tools on their hand guards, and who prefer the clean lines and classy look of the M4 fore end, these are a very nice upgrade.

Edited by Evolution
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So far in possession of:

 

 

-Carrier Comp Ti mag tube/spring/follower

-IWC light mount with Surefire M300 300lumen scout

-Aluminum trigger-guard with WOLFF springs throughout

-PG stock with drop-in Limbsaver recoil pad.

-Daves Metal Works safety button

-Scarlarworks Aimpoint Micro SYNC mount...

 

What's this you say. Scalarworks makes a mount for an Aimpoint Micro?

 

Does it also work with the T-1? I run one of those on my 3-Gun Benelli M4. Right now I am using a low-pro mount from Midwest. Do you know if the Tangodown protective jacket will fit over the T-1 and still work with this mount?

 

Mike

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What's this you say. Scalarworks makes a mount for an Aimpoint Micro?

 

Does it also work with the T-1? I run one of those on my 3-Gun Benelli M4. Right now I am using a low-pro mount from Midwest. Do you know if the Tangodown protective jacket will fit over the T-1 and still work with this mount?

 

Mike

It should, as it works with my h2 and cover, but I won't promise. Scalarworks is your POC for that. Yes, they do. It replaces the rail and allows lower 1/3 cw.

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I've done about a 100 of these now, so it's in good hands.

 

I just did one of the lame H2O's Benelli recently released where they didn't bother to NP3 plate anything, they just painted the exterior in a silverish Cerakote finish. I had to remove the magazine tube and the receiver extension since the gun is going to Robar for actual NP3+ finishing.

 

In the process, the receiver was not burned in any way during their removal.

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Well, I guess someone has to keep this board alive with posts. My inclination would be, I'm not letting someone else muck with my stuff, LOL...what in **** did you use before to discolor the receivers, a torch?

 

I had one that was absolutely caked with red loctite. Previously, I'd used a heat gun and my hands. Done half a dozen. This time, it was insane. So now? I'll let SD handle it. He has an actual padded vice and strap wrenches and a better feel for this than I do, as I've done half a dozen, he's done apparently hundreds.

 

I do not like others mucking with my stuff, but SD is at least as competent as I am, and has far more correct tools than I do. To deny this would be the epitome of Dunning Kruger syndrome.

 

Again, a heat gun (wagoner, common hi lo model) was used on the last one I did. To remove the tube absolutely caked in red loctite, without a vice, I got the receiver hot enough to very lightly bronze the anodizing seen in certain light. SD will not do this.

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I've done about a 100 of these now, so it's in good hands.

 

I just did one of the lame H2O's Benelli recently released where they didn't bother to NP3 plate anything, they just painted the exterior in a silverish Cerakote finish. I had to remove the magazine tube and the receiver extension since the gun is going to Robar for actual NP3+ finishing.

 

In the process, the receiver was not burned in any way during their removal.

 

When did they stop sending them out to Robar for NP3 coating? I just looked on their site dated 1/17/2017 and it says the "new H20 titanium cerakote finish"? WTF? In the pic I noticed that the bolt carrier is not finished the same, it's black cerakote.

Edited by Evolution
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I'm not sure exactly when but there were manufacturing date codes in this M4 from 2016. I believe the bolt carrier just has the standard phosphate finish on it. They really cheaped up the H2O series. The Cerakote is okay, but it isn't as tough as they make it sound. I had to remove some of it to do a loading port bevel job to match a A&S trigger guard and TTI lifter; and it scrapes off rather easily. Like if you slipped with the bolt handle while pushing the trigger pin out, it would without a doubt scratch the finish to the anodizing below.

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That's a shame...like everywhere else, business is all about the $. Mine is an early 2014 H20 model and it thankfully, is an NP3 gun. I know, the NP3+ is an upgrade but at least I feel that mine is a "genuine" H20 model.

 

That, and the TG being polymer now, bugs.

 

Mine also had the original cast metal TG which I just replace tonight with the A&S piece which is very nice. Happy with it. Yeah, the color is a bit off but not bad in my eyes, Iv'e gotten used to it and I really don't care about the company name on it.

 

Sorry for the thread hijack unobtanium, I'll shut up now.

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I'm a fan of leaving operating systems be. I have run qpq bcgs in m4 type rifles and had to rebuffer and re-spring them and even change ejector springs out to match faster cyclic rates. The m1014 was developed with phosphate and anodized and chrome sliding surfaces. I want to keep i this way since only milslec springs exist and no buffer exists to modify.

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We tested the real H2O's we built with high speed cameras to test how they were performing through the ejection cycle. The ejected shells end up in about the same place as an un-plated. The cyclic speed isn't increased much from the process. What is immediately felt is how smooth everything functions. One of the new H20's feels like my broken in 11703 with 15k rounds on it. One could say it would be more reliable when dealing with fouling and lack of care. I found the plated models to be more reliable with weaker loads like Winchester valuepack #8 and less prone to short stroking. I definitely shoot the plated ones better over stock.

 

I haven't found the need to re-spring the unit or change the weight of the bolt carrier in any way. No signage of the bolt impacting the rear of the receiver either. When shooting these plated guns, there is an obvious difference between a stock gun and the plated ones. There is less of that mechanical chugging feel as the action is cycles. Where you feel the bolt hit the hammer, then the bolt impacting the back of the receiver, then throwing it forward, picking up the next round on the elevator and finally slamming home. All these high spots in the inertia curve are smoothed over.

 

There are some drawbacks or bad sides to plating;

1. It's a PITA to have done. I don't trust the Robar gunsmiths to properly disassemble/reassemble. The skip a lot of small parts to plate or claim components cannot come apart when they really do.

2. They take forever to do a job. 3 - 4 months is typical.

3. It's expensive.

4. You can have any color you want as long as it's silver. I've had Cerakote applied over the NP3+ with positive results even though they claim it won't adhere.

5. Marginal increase in performance.

 

 

Other areas are dramatically improved like when you unload the M4 by pressing on the inside of the shell release. Every stock M4 is a PITA to get the rounds to come out. Especially the last round in the magazine tube. On the plated units, they're buttery smooth.

 

Cleaning is really easy with the plating. Most fouling just wipes off of the components. Very little effort is required on really bad areas like the pistons. On these H2O extreme builds, I disassemble the ARGO plugs and plate all the internal components except the spring and o-ring.

 

I'm very happy with the A&S Engineering trigger guards. I also prefer an aluminum unit over the polymer plastic ones. These machined units are a step above the OEM aluminum ones. The color matches the H2O's well. I bought a second one for myself to mount on my burnt bronze M4. I'm going to NP3+ plate the trigger guard, then have my Cerakote guy paint the visible portions burnt bronze.

 

The Cerakote painted M4's are kind of sloppy. Example, they don't paint the area under where the front barrel hanger covers the magazine tube. This is fine since the Cerakote will get scraped by installing the barrel over and over. The issue is they did a very poor job taping it up before painting. It isn't even close to being evenly painted. As you twist the magazine tube, you can see how uneven of a job was done. Sticking with the H2O name is kind of a misnomer. Cerakote isn't going to provide the corrosion resistance properties on the steel components.

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