tucker301

Chemical bluing holds up pretty well if you give it some effort. I've found that heating the area to ~150-180 degrees F and then applying the chemical promotes adhesion and durability. You'll need to apply it several times over to accomplish good results. Briley's is good, but really any smith a tank can fix you up like new as well. Plan B, get the entire gun dipped in a nice carbon fiber pattern, or whatever you want.

I would try touching it up with some chemical cold blue before going all out for the full hot blue.

There are a lot of people to think about on this day. Here are just a few of the more recent ones who gave their all for people they never met. http://www.cnn.com/SPECIALS/war.casualties/index.html?hpt=C1

I think at this point this has become an issue of someone arguing with someone who has no interest in continuing the discussion. The silly cartoons are doing no good at best, and are counterproductive at worst. We have two grown and capable adults who happen be at odds. The issue should be either settled privately via PM or left to die as is. This public spectacle is not helping either one's standing or reputation in my eyes.

You're gonna build a post count and start spamming, aren't you?

fikester, ignore that method. You can upload an image to a free account at http://www.photobucket.com and they will provide the necessary code to paste to your post here. If you don't want to be bothered with a photobucket account, you can use another service at http://www.imgur.com and upload an image without creating an account. When the image is uploaded, they will also provide the necessary code for forum use. The simplest code to use in either case it use the one that gives you the IMG tags at the beginning and end of the code. You'll see what I mean when you upload a photo.

I don't know much about all the rest of it, and I don't really care. But that right there seems to be one solid observation.

http://www.diyballistics.com/USS%20Slugs.html "First, I fired the USS slug into the test block from a distance of 12 feet. As is evidenced by the photos below, the plastic sheeting was obliterated, the slug completely penetrated the 14" gel block, and continued on to defeat nearly 2" of plywood." The recovered projectile was completely unscathed, save for a few scratches.

There are none. A gunsmith can refine the factory trigger for you.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

jw, Please ignore that one. Most of us already do.

You don't have to shoot the magnum loads in a 12 ga., but you do have to meet the minimum load requirements in inertia operated guns. Even still, there's a lot of wiggle room in there for load selection, so you can easily scale down on the loads and still shoot a gun that weighs nearly the same as a 20 ga. and recoils similarly. To be honest, given your listed quarry, you should consider a nice 20 ga. double. Franchi is offering some nice rebates on theirs now. http://www.franchiusa.com/

You are arguing with reality. That's not a sensible thing to do.

Hello, and welcome! You'll want to read through two threads here with great interest. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11936 http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14472

I like that one!

Or this? http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6314/Product/GRS_APERTURE__PRE_1997

Like this? http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6847/Product/SHOTGUN_NIGHT_SIGHTS

No problem. Welcome aboard. There's always room for another respectful and scrupulous young hunter on these forums. A couple of more posts and you can post your own pics.

What parts are you needing?

They support other models equally well. Ask me how I know. Skip the dealer and make the call.

Nice bird, Steve!

I don't have a model 6, but I do have a stag lower on my AR. Never had a problem with it.

I'd stick with the semi-auto for yotes.

The Savage is a bolt action - bananas to oranges. The 6L would be an excellent choice for a semi-automatic lefty varminter. About $900

http://www.thegunzone.com/556v223.html