tucker301

While it's nearly impossible to know the exact circumstances of your hunts, if I were in your position, I'd go with the .270WSM. Given the accuracy limitations of the R1, it's unlikely that you'll be shooting deer or elk over 300 yards or so. At that kind of range, the .270 will be more than ample to do the job. Just remember to make a high shoulder shot for optimum drop 'em in their tracks effect. The notion of using an antique like the .308, when the WSM's are there for the taking, is boderline absurd. Unless you're into making rainbow arching shots at 200 yards or more, the .308 is best left to die-hard stuck in their ways military and police shooters. The following two posts will show the three calibers compared, using the same bullet in each. The .270 WSM delivers in all categories. The .308 is a rock past a couple of hundred yards.

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I had a set of Primos Dead Zone chokes for my SBEII when I started this waterfowl season. I guess they're technically still mine, but some SCUBA gear and underwater metal detection may be in order.

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To be completely honest, if I hadn't been given free tickets to their last dinner, I wouldn't be a member of DU either. Since I won a new M2, it worked out OK.

I'm a member of both, but I prefer Delta's philosophies and methodologies over those of DU. It's kind of an odd thing to preserve wildlife so that you can kill it, but it's better than not doing anything at all.

Everybody knows that the humidity levels in the Dakotas usually run pretty low. Staying in that dry water kept the gun from rusting.

You should break it in with at least two boxes of heavy field loads. You should pattern the gun. I can almost guarantee you that POI will be different than it was with the 870. You should disassemble and re-assemble it into its basic components to become familiar with it. And you should refrain from trying to rip the forearm off after the first shot

Keep in mind that most Benelli owners never seek out these forums, because they are quite happy with the performance of their shotguns. Forum such as these will always draw a disproportional number of customers who are having one problem or another. In the whole scheme of things, the problem to ownership ratio must be quite insignificant. As someone who has had prior experiences with the SBE, you have already proven that your shooting style and form are very much in sync with the Inertia drive's way of doing things. It is highly unlikely that you will have any problems whatsoever, but on the off chance that you do, you can rest assured that Benelli CS is second to none.

A gunsmith who is versed in stock fitting can tell you what your optimum measurements are. You can then setup the SBEII as close to those parameters as the various parts and configurations will allow.

Did anyone else notice the bruise on the Benelli president's cheek? He must have tried out that Browning Gold in the video.

There are two small holes in the recoil pad. They may appear as nothing more than small slits or impressions, as the rubber has closed back in around them. Place a drop of oil on the tip of a phillips screwdriver and push it into the holes, then turn until you feel it engage the screw heads. Turn counterclockwise to loosen the screws and remove the pad.

Clean thoroughly the trigger group, bolt group, and interior receiver parts. Lubricate with CLP and wipe down so that there are no wet surfaces. If it still malfunctions, contact Benelli CS for return instructions.

KRL, Generally speaking, stovepiping refers to a round sticking out of a half-closed breech at a 90 degree angle. This typically occurs with the empty round not being fully ejected. But you appear to be saying that this is occurring with the next loaded round. Is that correct? Can you safely replicate the condition and post a picture? Is your gun still under warranty? What are the environmental conditions when shooting? Are you wearing multiple layers of clothing which may contribute to reducing the resistance at the shoulder?

Disassemble and clean the magazine components fully and retest.

Cycling them through the action is the way most do it. You can press the release catch with your thumb and take them out as described in the manual, but it's PITA to do that way.

General duck season has ended here in Southern VA as well. As usual, heavy hunting pressure and mild weather kept most of the puddlers scattered on ponds and off-limit swamps, and of course the handful of clubs with manipulated flooded "crops". Late season on the big flats and hydrilla saw decent numbers of ringnecks with a few redheads, bluebills, and a smattering of canvasbacks. Geese have been scattered and hard to pattern here as well. In the closing two weeks, colder temps locked up those places and we saw good numbers of mallards, teal, blacks, gadwalls, woodies, and even a few pintails returning to the reservoirs. Good rains a few weeks ago flooded timer in the Dan and Staunton rivers and the willows wer full of ducks seeking refuge and food. No patterning them, but they were less wary than the birds we'd seen most of the season. We got into some of them and found one backwater spot that was absolutely infested black ducks as soon as the ice melted a bit. One last photo taken Friday. Sean with our two blacks hiding in the willows.

In my opinion you should always crimp ammo that is to be used for hunting in general, but especially if it is for a semi-automatic. I can't help you with load selection. Never reloaded for 300.

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Yes, that would be best. And don't forget to take that boresighter with you. Without that clever device, you can't tell what kind of barrel you're getting, until it's too late.

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You should take that one back and get one that bore sights correctly. You should take the bore sighter to the gun shop with you. That's what I do when I want a straight shooting shotgun. Sometimes the dealer will have to bring 6 or 7 bad ones out before we get a good one. Good dealers will respect your knowledge and want to please you.