Unobtanium

Supposedly that bolt charger weighs .3oz My roommate just took my stock bolt charger up to the university and is going to weigh it and see how much it weighs. THe issue here is balancing strength and weight and size. It needs to be large enough to grab Weigh little enough not to stress/break under high-G accel/decel, and Strong enough for it's weight. Also, weight distribution probably comes into play as well. Hang more weight on the outer end, it stresses the middle/base more.

Yeah...pretty much. Try running an expensive QD mount on it like we have. Then you can be one of the first-hand informed, lol. I estimate 6-8wks on te new rail from my conversations with Kip. He should have them machined in 4-5 wks + ano-time.

I personally think the red-dot is a good idea, which is why I am buying Kip's rail when it comes out (It is a sure deal, and I have badgered the poor man for info on it enough that I am pretty much required to buy it, lol) and mounting an Aimpoint T1 or Trijicon RMR on it (leaning heavily to the T1). The red-dot is much faster than ghost rings especially when using slugs. An aftermarket pistol-grip is pointless. Stick with the stock stock, even though it may be a wee long. On another note, Duggan, how hard was installing your GGG bolt release? Is it the whole thing, or do you have to modify the stock one to replace the button? How has it held up, IIRC I have heard of people saying the screw holding the pad in place un-screws randomly or something back when I was considering one for my old M4. Also, do you too have the titanium bolt knob? I have heard of other bolt knobs bending and recall you mentioning that you bent/broke one. Story on that?

Yep, simple stuff. Years of bachelorhood even allowed me to forgo the use of a strapwrench to unscrew the tube.

+1 and FWIW, LaRue gave me a full refund on both the optic and mount when my M4 shredded his mount. I saw no need for the optic since the M4 was why I bought the optic. Mark may make a total fool of himself on his message board at times, but make no mistake, he stands behind his product 100%.

+1 I heated up the area where the tube screws in with my heat-gun, wrapped a pair of boxers I had laying on my floor around the reciever, set it on my computer chair cushion that I am sitting on as I type this, and took my man hands and un-screwed the tube slowly while heating the reciever periodically. It was very simple. No CLP was boiled off, no smoke was created, nothing was damaged, and no animals were harmed. I am not one to go meddling with things often, but this was simple and well worth it.

Collapsible stocks are a bling item pretty much. The full-length tubes can be had as cheap as $100 (for a good one).

Until Cleefurd comes out with the rail, I plan on buying an Aimpoint T1 with their QR mount. Here is a link to a thread where a guy really helped me with some info! http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=18&t=440310&page=1 Complete with pix. This mount is by Aimpoint, (calling them tomorrow for info on it), and is QR, and is the lowest profile QR mount in existance for the Micro T1. Also, the guy telling me about it has fired 3" slugs through his M4 with it mounted to no ill effect.

Cleefurd makes no such abomination. Full length tubes only.

The M4 is more than the sum of it's parts. The Mossberg SPX is a proven and reliable auto-loader, but it isn't an M4.

Kip (user Cleefurd) should have one out in a few weeks. Expect over the top quality from him. He delivers. I feel that 9 rounds in my M4 is enough.

The Mesa rail is junk imho. It flexes the reciever and cannot be tightened down more than a few inch # of tq if you want to get your barrel back in the weapon. Very poor design.

Yeah, my factory tube is crap. It has a dent in it right out of the box, lol. I cannot wait for Kip to ship me my tube, and yes, I am trying to be patient. From all accounts Kip's products are second to none, and quite frankly, I think Kip is a very personable guy to deal with.

Ahhh, this is like a car guy saying "I used to have a corvette and sold it, now I have a chance to buy a mustang, how does it compare?" It doesn't.

+1, I payed $1685 out the door, yes I payed 1-200 more than I should have, but I bought from a friend who's gun-store I spend a lot of time in and his manager set the price.

I have fondled and petted my Benelli's quite a bit and never experienced that.

I have fixed the problem. Here is the video of it sans clicking. Turn your sound up as loud as you like, nothign to hear except the last 2 times I pull the trigger I slap it against the back. http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=a2dhf4&s=5

Considering the shotgun has moved almost an inch (or something like that) from the recoil by the time the projectile(s) exit the muzzle...who cares about lock-time?

The Trulock choke changed my POI vs. the factory one, the pattern density was more evenly spread, and it seemed to do better with slugs. It patterned some loads a HAIR looser, some a HAIR tighter, but all of them had better distribution. It also matches the chrome-lining because it is SS and I am a fan of color co-ordination (This is my last exeprience)

I noticed while SLOWLY pulling the trigger on my M4 with the hammer down (already discharged, just "playing" with the trigger hammer down) that the trigger return spring seems to bind a bit in the last 1/8" of trigger travel, resulting in the feel of a slight bit of gritty-ness and a very light "click" as the coil of the spring rides over the edge of the detent hole's lip that it resides in. Anyone else notice this when slowly pulling the trigger in the manner described. I think my first M4 did it as well, but don't remember. Sorry, OCD Also, normal for the Bolt Carrier to bottom out against the back of the reciever under recoil, causing indentations into the inside of the rear of the reciever matching the sharp corners on the rear of the BC? Again something I didn't notice on my other one that probably happened, I just never noticed. http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=124ijxe&s=5 Gotta turn your sound up a bit. Notice the clicking right before trigger bottoms out, and the grating upon trigger release?

Today I picked up an M4. I have owned one before, sold it, missed it, bought this one. It is an 11707. I test-fired it after: Applying choke-tube lube to the threads of the gas piston caps and the choke tube, lubing the BC with LaRue MG lube, and hand-cycling it to spread. I test-fired it with Remington Premier STS Light Target loads: 12ga 2.75" 2.75 DR.EQ. 1-1/8oz #9 shot 1145fps I shot 25 rounds of this, and 25 rounds of some Estate bird-shot that was slightly hotter. I only had one jam, and it was when my finger failed to allow the trigger to reset and I had a "dead-trigger" because I was doing a mag-dump and didn't release it. User error, poor trigger control, I am used to AR's. I am pleased. It cycled that stuff (just barely, but it did) when brand new, it will cycle anything. Mods planned: Ti full-length tube and upgraded spring Aimpoint T1 REAL M1913 rail (when it is made) along with a LaRue mount for the T1 A good sling Trulock MOD choke

Wow. I never even tested my M4 shooting DOWN. All I know is I got the same problems when using HEAVY loads (3" #4 buck) and the stock civi M4 spring.

Don't try to gank the OP's thread. Start a new topic. Poor choice for first post placement. TTT free bump.

Price looks fair to me. Is this the 2-port barrel?

Dangit! You are making me almost regret selling my M4 setup for an M4 setup! Nice to see this! ETA: I have purchased another M4 in anticipation of said rail.