Unobtanium

Whether OP was a troll or not, the info is still solid and we have had that question come up before on the forum. All it did was draw more attention to my M4S90 for sale, and it got sold

Actually, many people have answered your questions multiple times in multiple ways, myself, several times in fact. I have left NO STONE un-turned in answering: What you want to add What a new M4S90 costs What a good used M4S90 costs What could go wrong on them (not much) What to look for in a used one You will note that multiple people pointed you to my M4S90 for sale. Why? Because it was the epitome of the perfect "basic" setup for an M4S90 and a killer price. That wasn't a good enough answer for you, though. Even if you did not want to buy mine, the implications were obvious. They showed you a sample of a very well done basic M4S90 build as best they saw it. That answered: Cost of a used M4 ($1475 in this case, because I wanted it moved fast and money is less important than utility to me, or I wouldn't buy anything.), things to add (see my former ad), what to look for(A well-cared for gun owned by someone who has built nearly half a dozen like it and knows it forward and backward). However, you indicate that you still feel a need to "google" information and act as though you could not garner any information from this board. I have a feeling that yes, you have wasted my time, because you are un-reachable. Yes, I accept your apology. No, my M4S90 is not available any longer as I just shipped it to the FFL of its new owner. Further considerations: You can't afford to buy a new M4S90, yet you are worried about adding parts to a used one? That will cost more than a new one.

Lets be fair now, a month ago this was your story: Now you want one that is used, but without "a few other things to go along with it". It just seems like you keep asking the same stuff over and over and not doing anything with the info given you.

The M4S90 is a foolproof system for the most part. Nothing on them "breaks". Nothing is prone to any exaggerated wear. If you get an 11707 model made in the last few years, there really is nothing to "check". Now, if you want to get nit-picky, -check the threads in the barrel to make sure noone buggered them firing it without a choke. -check the O-rings on each piston relief valve to make sure they were not "cut" by careless installation when removing the pistons. -Check the carrier face where the pistons impact it to make sure it is not peened, nor the pistons mushroomed. Bad heat-treats can happen with any metal. This is not a known problem with current 11707's. -Check that the firing-pin retaining pin O-ring is present and not cut up. -Look down the bore. It will likely have some fouling in it if slugs have been fired. This is a non-issue, but make sure there is no rust. Fouling can be rapidly and easily removed with a Tornado 12ga brush dipped in CLP(I don't like to run a dry brush down ANY bore). -Insure that there is no rust on the weapon -Lay the weapon upside down where it is balanced on a FLAT SURFACE (granite counertop, glass table, etc.). It will be supported on the front-sight wings, and on the rear sight wings. If it rocks back and forth in any way, it should be less than the thickness of a piece of regular typing paper. This is to say, you should not be able to slide a piece of typing paper under ANY of the protective "wings" on the sights. Some (maybe .001-.004") of movement is normal, but much more than a piece of typing paper points to a front sight that is not straight. Benelli has replaced one barrel assy. for me due to this on my last M4S90 (before this one) due to such. No questions asked. 2 or 3 week turn-around time. So yes, it can happen. Even on a $1600 shotgun. -Just buy a new one. $300 or so isn't important to you based on your responses in this thread, so I would STRONGLY recommend a new M4S90 from a place like Bud's guns. That way your boyfriend will be the first to fire it, any issues can be dealt with by Benelli IF they arise, and there will be no second-guessing. Looking at the big picture, you were (it is SPF right now) against my M4S90 even though all it has is a hammer identical to the OEM, but made in the USA (I have the original if he didn't want it to be legal to own), and a magazine tube, arguably the best on the market, already installed (again, unless he only wants the 5-round OEM spacer setup because he would prefer 2 piece magazine tube to a 1-piece and doesn't want 7 rounds, but would rather a 5 round capacity, could this be a negative). All this coming to light, buy the man a new shotgun. If you don't want basic improvements at severely cut pricing, I would wager that you also don't want a previously shot weapon at a discount, either. Your posts strongly indicate that new is the only way for you, and Bud's guns offers some GREAT! prices and dealt straight with me last item I bought. I recommend that to you.

Try http://www.ar15.com, too. Tons of traffic there. GLWS!

The cheapest I have seen a new M4S90 is from buds guns. I bought from them once and it was a solid transaction. A bit under $1500 and no tax if you're not in that state. I doubt you beat that on a new M4S90. This was my fourth M4S90. I have learned as I have gone, with the platform.

It's all good, although if he wants what is considered the best, he will likely end up with exactly what I have. However, he will have installed it, so it may well mean more to him. I know I prefer things that way and will burn the money to do it.

Some people like to roll their own, I can relate.

Does that also include tax? I don't know where you live, but in most states, tax on a $1500 weapon quickly turns it into a $1600 weapon.

Thanks, and having done business with Sukhoi_fan, the same can be said by me. Guy puts something up for sale/offers to buy, he's as good as his word on it.

...and the US made hammer.

Weapon is $PF

"oh, yummy! My receiver wants that!" Serious "hints" here...

Yes...that 1913 rail is no-longer available. Further, if someone buys my M4S90, they have first dibs on this as a package deal.

Has been installed on my M4S90, but weapon not fired. Trimmed to clear barrel-ring as shown. No, it doesn't look OEM, it looks like someone carefully did it with a scalpel and wood-burning kit. : ) The OEM Surefire rubber rail-covers are in all sorts of lengths now as I cut them up to fit my kit. One or two ladders may even be missing. Obviously a discount is warranted for the non OEM condition, and as you see, it's a solid one! As always, USPS MO, on this item I will accept USPS Priority shipping w/tracking for the payment. It will be sent to you the same. Pix:

Guy on ar15.com officially welched, his account is being shut-down. PM's received and replied to.

use rem oil or just piss on it. Seems equivalent in my experience. If you want to protect from rust, clp does great. For a lube, I like tw25b on an m4s90.

For another $50 I will throw in one of Kip's T1/A2 bold handles. All payment is USPS MO and must be mailed overnight because of my knee-jerk reaction to what will be a welch from the last "buyer" in roughly 12 more hours. Even considering your cost to overnight payment to me, it's still an absurd deal! All details in link: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_162/909619_.html&page=1&anc=3847550#i3847550 Get in line in case this guy welches by mid-day tomorrow. (very likely, he has not even logged on to the site since Nov 2).

Another +1. This is SOP. Nothing to be concerned with. Forget that you ordered it but keep the money in the acct/on the card and one day you will see it show up again and then in your mail box shortly thereafter.

Heat gun is cheap. Has "high" and "low" setting. Identical to the one pictured by Stranger. I alternated between the receiver around the tube, and the base of the tube itself, blowing the hot air on the junction between the two. When the CLP smoked, I stopped and twisted. When the turning stopped, I heated it up again. My tube had about that much and half again as much lok-tite on it as Stranger's did in his pictures above. What you have to understand, Bello, is that I embrace the bachelor lifestyle.The heat-gun was almost an afterthought

Awesome pictorial, but it might scare some people. 2 hot-pads on either side of the reciever, hold it between your knees, heat the mag-tube at the base and the part of the reciever that is directly holding it, and twist the mag-tube free with your hands. Put some CLP inside the mag-tube at the base, and when it starts to smoke out of the tube, you have it hot enough. Twist it as much as you can, re-heat, repeat. Tutorial above is very good, but don't let it intimidate you. The above few lines sum the operation up. It's what I do when they CAKE! the lok-tite junk they use on there. If they only use a little bit, I will just glare at it for a few minutes and it un-screws with ease.

Damn I wish we had sig lines on this forum

It's the Indian, not the bow.

Then you can look forward to bending the mount, scuffing/breaking the light, whatever else if you ever rest the fore-end on something when firing. Sometimes aesthetics and symmetry must take a back seat to performance. I suffer the same, so I understand your desire, but a compromise is in order in some cases I have found.

+1, I hate tape-switches. Great way to have a ND with your light.