Trapshooter1

The 11 87 is not junk IMO. It does have a heavy and over complicated gas system. The benellis are the way it should be, light, simple, and reliable. The monty has a 1 shot extra advantage, and 1 oz lighter. But the M2 has a price advantage, $200 cheaper when comparing the camo M2 to the fancy finished monty. IMO the camo M2 is more suited for hunting, especially for waterfowl and turkey, and cheaper. To answer your question, there is no performance difference at all, the factors you should now look at, are price and your prefference for looks.

That ended up being a problem with my old supernova because I put over 1000 rounds a month through it and never let the solvent sit and never used a bore brush. There ended up being a visible rough layer of plastic in the choke and forcing cone (the tapper between the chamber and bore. This made for bad patterns. Take care of your bore.

I think it is better to start out with a gun set up to shoot under the bird. It is hard to break yourself from covering the bird, but my scores went up when I got used to a high POI gun. Being able to see what you shoot helps because birds and clays can sink just enough to miss sometimes.

I am almost certain that max4 is the lightest camo the sbe is available in. I am not much of a predator hunter, but I think matte black would be better than white.

You dont have to clean a supernova very thoroughly to function properly. I would focus mainly on keeping the bore clean, you need a cleaning rod, a jag, and a bore brush. You also need bore cleaning patches, solvent, and gun oil. Run some solvent through the barrel with the choke in, let it sit while you take care of the rest of the gun. apply a light coat of oil in the action to keep it smooth. Then take out the choke, use a cleaning patch with oil on it to wipe of the dirt, then put a few drops of oil on the threads and re install. Then run a dry patch through the barrel to get rid of the solvent. Then run the bore brush through a couple times to scrape of the hard stuff and plastic from the wads. Then run patches wet with oil down the barrel until they no longer have black on them. If you have a black gun then put a very light coat of oil on the surface metal as well. Do this every 1000 rounds or every 2 months, which ever one comes first.

I have heard good things about hornady, federal and remington sabot slugs. It is hard to know which is best without making some 5 shot groups and seeing which groups best. Try a box of each premium brands to know which is best in your barrel. If you are willing to dish out the money than nitro company turkey shells will give you the best results. For what I can afford federal mag shok is the best patterning shells I have found. Some cheapo boxes of 100 shot shells will be fine for dove squirrel and clay pigeons. I dont have much of a preference for duck shot shells I will use about anything affordable with a proper choke.

I am pretty sure they are the same guns, in different finishes. The receiver is the same shape, and the trigger guard, and the weight and capacity is all the same. So the guns are equal in performance, with the only difference being finish. The M2 is more weather proof. The montrefeltro is more beautiful.

My super nova cycled smooth as silk out of the box. Maybe I got a particularly good one, maybe I am to used to my 870.

You know a gun doesn't have to be black to wrap it in tape, you know that camo breaks up your outline and that is its main job right? Maybe you could get a darker camo pattern like MONBU and it would be plenty dark for coyotes and your outline would be more broken up, and guess what? You can still wrap tape over it. If you have the mental attitude of "black is better for coyotes at night ... black doesn't affect anything during the day" than you must have something wrong. Camo looks pretty much black at night and it has a matte finish so I doubt it will spoke the coyotes. I also think camo is a good investment for the birds.

Looks like a good idea, let us know your results tucker. I love this forum

I have heard rem oil sticks but have not seen it happen but it only gets down to 10+ at the worst down here.

Good info, this will help others if they have this problem.

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Well I was just saying an estimate based on what federal said "1/3 denser than lead" you do the math, (1+7/8)/3=.625 (1+7/8)-.625=1.25 1.25=1 1/4 oz eq. of lead Please correct me if I am wrong.

I would prefer to have it drilled and tapped (which means have the smith drill wholes and put threads in them) and then attach a rail to the gun with screws. You can get the rails pretty much anywhere you can find gun stuff. Or you can use a saddle mount: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0006213710172a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCHFEAT_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=scope+mount&sort=all&Go.y=0&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&Go.x=0&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1

No I will be using the old (well not that old) remington 7 series 30-06 this season, I am getting a rifle for next season, I don't have a whole lot of money to spend, so I am thinking a Marlin xs7 or xl7, Savage 11, Remington 7 series, or wheatherby vanguard. I was thinking I would get a 7mm/08. If I were to find a used rifle (280/7mm) or bigger in good condition under $600 and from a good brand I would probably take it. The rimfire which I will probably be getting soon as squirrel season is almost here, is a savage mark II 22 mag w/ 3-9 X 40 simmons scope finished in mossy oak brush. I found one on gun broker and will probably purchase it within a week. Why do you ask? Got any rifles you want to get rid of?

I like my gun where it shoots high so I can see the bird when I shoot it. I would set it where the you put the bead touching the bottom of the bird, not where you have to cover the bird with the bead.

I heard you can grind the bottom of the bolt down and use the t&s on the m2.

But the you can see the band, and pesky little things like that play tricks on your mind and cause you to miss. Some one, PLEASE make a shell catcher for benellis that doesn't stick on, or get in your line of sight, or have to alter the gun to make it work.

Any red dot scope will work, as long as you have a way to mount it to the gun.

I don't know but, Nitro company makes some that go over 2 oz, but it will cost you an arm or a leg. For now I am sticking with lead. Can you compare patterns and post some pics so maybe I can change my mind?

I am saving up for a rimfire and a deer rifle, and I don't have the cash now. Maybe in January, what would be a reasonable price for you, I really cant say yet what I would offer, if it was really a great deal I might be able to get it soon. If you dont want others seeing your price because you want them to make offers and try to get the most out of it PM me.

Was it a full choke and did you shoot steel shot through it?

He probably looked at you funny because you where saying it kicked hard with light loads. If you want a light kicking gun, try a beretta w/ kick off. Talk about light kick. The Benelli is recoil operated, but it uses the after effects of the recoil to cycle, not the direct effects to cycle it, therefore the action might as well be a pump in terms of recoil reduction. The comfortech does make a difference with turkey loads, but not much I can feel with light loads compared to a pump of similar weight. The fact that it doesn't have the gas system weighing it down, makes it lighter, which makes it kick harder. Shoot a gun before you buy it based on hype. I bought one because it is lighter, simpler and fits me right. When I shot a 12 gauge the first time, which was the first center fire I ever shot, it scared me more than it kicked me, and the surprise that it went bang and gave me a shove and didn't pop and have no recoil is what scared me.

It would also be good to shoot a couple boxes of 3" shells through it.