StrangerDanger

Same here. I love their lights. The problem usually is the tolerance stacking of the M4. ****, here is the second M80 I received in February of 2011. My bet for yours is the lug near the muzzle of the weapon is causing the fitting issue. It isn't slipping under the factory handguard hanger fully, so the M80 won't allow the barrel to fully seat. You can try force fitting it with a rubber mallet. Sometimes that will give you a visual reference as to where the interference is, and where you must relieve. The amount of material that is removed is very minimal. Here are some shots on my third rail that actually fits well. They might help you as a visual reference.

I host mine at photobucket.com for free. The Benelli forum software reduces the size too much. When you push the add a picture button, click the add URL instead. Before I'd flat out replace the entire recoil tube assembly, I'd go for broke and try to elongate the threaded hole so I could use a brute force attack on the plug. I'd rather replace just a 23 dollar part rather than a 105 dollar one. I'd smoke that plug with the heatgun for an hour. Randomly blast some PB Liquid Wrench on the boiling threads. Do it outside or in a garage, it is going to smoke. If that still doesn't work, we can assist with removal of the recoil tube as well. It's not an easy task, but it is doable. If this is a M1014 or a 11703 with the recoil tube that won't accept a collapsible stock, I'd replace the tube anyway.

I'm sure they'll swap you. You'll just be down and out for a week or two.

Awesome tools benelliwerks. I'd buy a tool set that was specifically made for removal of this recoil tube plug. I hate when manufacturers use non-standard tooling. I had imagined I just wasn't looking in the right place to buy an appropriate tool for disassembly. I'm curious to know what the Benelli Armorer's course specifies to use.

Check for interference on the front lug of the M80 where it seats into the handguard retaining ring. It is common for older production M80's to need a small amount of filing on this lug in order to seat it. I'd recommend a flat hand file to perform the job. No power tools. Afterwards, hit the lug with some alumablack if you're worried about the look of the lug that will only be seen during disassembly. The rubber portion at the back can be trimmed so it isn't bulged around the 11707 barrel ring that seats against the face of the receiver. Simply take a razor knife and relieve the rubber where this ring interferes.

I bought my Aimpoint from LaRue directly with their low mount. You need the carriercomp top rail replacement for this to work. If you put the LaRue mount on the factory top rail, it will destroy your mount.I like the Scout better than the X400 because it has a lower profile when installed with a GearSector offset mount. A slight modification to the M80 is required to use the GearSector mounts. I'm not a fan of tape switches, so setting it up for momentary/constant use was mandatory. The front sling mount is a GearSector limited rotation mount. The rear sling mount is from Mesa Tactical. Their unit is only good for the collapsible stock. However, I've installed a similar mount on the fixed stock with the use of one of the Magpul UBR threaded QD sling mount cups. I just bought the ambidextrous right side model. They're threaded so the 10 - 24 screw attaches right to it. I drilled a hole through the stock (careful to avoid the recoil tube channel) and put a thin washer under the hardware. It works great. The sling is a BlueForceGear padded QD sling. VCAS I believe is the model name.

I've always pointed mine towards the front. I imagine it doesn't matter though.

Finding the correct tool will be difficult. Carriercomp was considering fabricating some of these tools for this job. I'm not sure if that went anywhere.The only way you'll get it out is to bake the **** out of it and loosen the locktite. Also, where is the snap ring? Did the Mesa stock destroy that during removal?

I reread your issue. You need to use heat to get the plug out. You may need a half hour with a heat gun on the plug to break the locktite free.

Yes, that would be the one. Hopefully Kip will get them back in stock soon. Replacement of that Italian rusty coat hanger abortion is mandatory if you plan on mounting anything to the top rail. Even if you don't mount anything, Kip's rail looks much better.I spoke with the reps at both Benelli USA and Benelli Italy about the rail issues. All groups pretended not to know about the deficiencies of the factory rail.There is no obstruction of the iron sights with a proper profiled rail whatsoever. The weight savings wouldn't even register on a postal scale.

Great deal.

Part #65 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=916/schematicsdetail/M4#66 Kips superior rail is looking better price wise?

My M4 never had the spring retainer when I bought it, so I never knew it was missing. I bought one from Brownells a few years ago. You simply have to keep your hand over the end when unscrewing the magazine cap. It does give a small amount of additional room for the spring itself to collapse. So some of those longer 2 3/4 shells might fit easier.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=50200/pid=23594/Product/70021_TRIGGER_PIN_BUSHING_M4 Was it damaged from the use of the snap ring pliers? It's hard to tell from the photo, but the damaged end is the side that the snap ring installs on right? Before you just order this one item. Consider what you need from Brownells so you can maximize on the shipping costs.

You need parts #51, 52, 53, 54 51 -- Retaining Spring http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=50291/pid=0/sku/Retaining_Spring 52 -- Retaining Spacer http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=51009/pid=0/sku/Retaining_Spacer 53 -- Retaining Ring (Snap Ring) http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=50341/pid=0/sku/Retaining_Ring 54 -- Axle Bushing (Trigger group pin itself) http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=50288/pid=0/sku/Axle_Bushing So you need part #51 and #52. Do you have the snap ring to reassemble everything with? Hope this helps.

When I get to my laptop, I'll source you the proper parts at Brownells. There is a snap ring that retains the pin from coming all the way out.

I'd return it to stock, split up the accessories. I wouldn't sell a weapon that was out of 922 compliance. What the weapon is worth requires more information. What is its condition? What model M4 is it? 11707? M1014?

http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/26184-GG-amp-G-Benelli-speed-button/page2?highlight=benelliwerks Page 2 and 3 have pictures of the install. Look for benelliwerks posts.

Agreed. I'd much rather have a 11707 than a M1014. The 11707 has a three position recoil tube where the M1014 has the crappy recoil tube that won't allow the stock to collapse. It's a real ******* to replace too. The 11707 has interchangeable chokes where the M1014 does not. The 11707 has a refined barrel profile and an oversized seating lug at the front of the receiver. The finish has been refined on the 11707 vs. the older models. Additional corrosion resistance surface coatings have been performed on things like the ARGO plugs. The 11707 is cheaper than the limited edition M1014 models. If you're buying a shooter, get the the 11707. The M1014's are best left for collectors.

Sukhoi_fan is correct. You must replace the magazine tube with a full length US made tube to have it count towards your US compliance goals. If you plan on using the pistol grip stock, you must only replace three components because the collapsible stock counts as two foreign made parts. carriercomp mades top of the line products. If building a new M4 from the ground up, I'd go to carriercomp and order the following; 1. Full length Titanium Magazine Tube, this comes with a US made follower and a Wolff Spring. 2. Replacement top rail 3. Titanium Bolt Handle 4. US Made Hammer Then, decide if you want a railed forend, or a standard handguard. For railed forends, the Surefire M80 is the best option. If you have no use for rails, go to Freedom Fighter Tactical and buy their stock reproduction set. With these items in place, you will then be in parts compliance and can legally install a full length magazine tube and collapsible stock.

You're planning on running an optic of some sort, right? I'm curious to know how effective the push/pull technique is with the FVG. I have a spare FUG laying around, I might try it on mine just for the **** of it. needncash: Good deal. The Subaru will get you most places you want to go in your area. The only thing you're missing from the diesel 4x4 is the super expensive repair bills when things go **** up. Or, spending a ton of cash on a crazy upgrade, then break a factory part associated with it. I've got the front axle out of mine right now for a complete rebuild for just this reason.

Good info. I was wondering why you had removed the hammer pin completely from the trigger group. Next time I make an order from Brownells, I'm going to grab some of that SlideGlide to give a try.

need4cash, Falling back into the upgrade routine for the cars? Unobtainium, Swang looking. How's it feel? Did the M80 fit alright?