StrangerDanger

Correct. Black bolt carrier = Cerakote. Sounds like you have a 11794 rather than a 11718. The color match is fairly close between the Cerakote and the Np3. You just don’t get the performance benefits of the NP3.

Width of the hammer will have issues in those plastic frames too. Not just ShooterSight’s hammers either. You can file the channel of the frame open more to permit clearance.

There is surprisingly very little aluminum on the Benelli M4. Just the receiver, top rail, frame of the collapsible stock. Everything else is steel.

I advise everyone to get rid of the oem polymer trigger frames. They’re crap. They’re nothing but out of spec problems across the board Which requires Benelli to fit their trigger kits to it. I bet if you got an A&S Engineering frame, all your issues would be resolved.

Maybe more if you have it kitted out with matched plating. At least until the market is saturated and the world runs out of chumps. Sadly true. You don't want a general gunsmith touching a Benelli. They best be a certified Benelli armorer at the very least. There are a lot of nuance parts that require specialized care to get apart and back together. It would be like taking your C7 Corvette to your local shade tree mechanic to have the transmission worked on.

I’m often seeing around 1,150 with shipping back from Wright. I charge 300 to tear down and reassemble. It’s about 6 hours of work to do both correctly. Then whatever return shipping charges back to you. Since I hold a FFL, it can be returned directly to you under gunsmithing rules. Right now I’m expanding my equipment to be able to handle Cerakote services. That way we aren’t all stuck with silver shotguns. One less trip in the mail, and willing to do complicated painting operations for cosmetics. Like painting just the visible area of the bolt carrier.

Nice, I have two of those RMJ Tactical tomhawks too. Mine are OD Green and FDE. One lives under my bed for when things go bump in the night. I'll do some pictures up in my Model Y Tesla that is carbon fibered out with my matching Benelli soon.

No negative issues with getting a Cerakote model aside from the extra cost. I’ve broken down several of them to have them plated in actual NP3. Wright Armory is the place to go for the NP3 process to be applied. However, I can not recommend their disassembly and reassembly services. A forum member had them do it recently and had a bad time.

It’s not that great. I need to modify it to thin the blades somewhat to work properly. It’s better than that Weaver Magnabit though. Plus the seller was the worst person I’ve ever dealt with in 20 years on gunbroker.

If you’re curious about the build date, pop off the rubber butt pad and it’ll have a date matrix stamped into the inside of the pad.

Brownells has a decent set of drivers with fixed handles and wood storage blocks. They even have brass name plates they custom make for you. Such as my daughter got me the set for one Father’s Day. Brownells also has their Magnabit set which has a lot more bits. I bought four of their derlin organizers so I could spread out the collections of 1/4 bits and organize them a little better and add to the collection. The driver handle options Magnabit has are really nice. The bits will fit into torque drivers. Seekonk makes excellent dial indicator torque wrenches of various torque ranges in the 1/4 size.

I’d ask around here if anyone wants to trade barrels. Some prefer the fixed choke as one less part that can fail. From time to time you see barrels for sale on auction sites for around 400 with the gas system. Buying that vs getting the machine work done might be a better option. I personally don’t change the choke in my M4. It works well for buck and slugs. The only time I put birdshot thru it is just to test low dram loads or to screw around.

No it doesn’t. Which isn’t a bad thing. If they counted every oem part, we’d be over a hundred foreign parts and a long way from 10.

Hmmm. Well you do have a three position stock. What I would check for is to see if the stock has been pinned pin place. Usually pinned stocks have a screw beneath the cheek. When you press the adjustment button, does it push in almost flush with the frame of the stock? Once pressed, are you rotating the stock 45 degrees, then pushing the stock up and down the extension, then rotating it 45 degrees back to center?

No, I didn’t buy their follower. I may try one in the future. It seems longer than most. Let us know if yours has issues with the FFT one. I held my hand over the spring in the tube and pushed in the follower with my thumb to simulate tension. The problem appears immediately if it’s an issue.

Something to keep an eye out for when you install a carbon fiber magazine tube. I noticed on one of my swaps that the shells were hanging up inside the magazine tube with my brother-in-law’s M4. He was using a FFT follower. Upon trying to insert a shell into the empty magazine tube, the follower would get stuck and prevent you from pushing the round in. I found that the follower was hanging up on the Briley magazine tube where the stainless steel threaded end transitions to the aluminum body beneath the carbon fiber. If you push your finger inside either end of the mag tube, you’ll feel the lip. So I tried a carriercomp follower that happened to be NP3 plated to see if it would perform any different. The issue completely went away. Just be sure to test your equipment before you’re relying on it.

I finally got around to testing these reducer out. No function issues were experienced even with weak valuepack 7.5 birdshot. It’s benefit was noticeable when firing slugs. I’d guess it cuts 15% or perceived recoil. We have a regular M4 to compare directly against which had similar modifications as mine. Ie: NP3 plated internal parts, Limbsaver buttpad. Same optic and light load out. Same carbon fiber magazine tube. I’ll need to play with the different spring weights a little to see if I can milk anymore performance out of the unit.

Great job pirate!

Bambihunter- Can you post photos of your canted stock and maybe the receiver extension? Do you have the M4 that has the flag engraved on the side of the receiver?

I have swapped out the receiver extensions for a bunch of customers on the flag edition M1014’s. The collapsible stock then fully functions. You’ll need to abide by 922 compliance on either model. The general consensus is to do 4 US made parts if using the collapsible stock. Carriercomp or Briley mag tube and carriercomp magazine follower Will get you two of them. The other two options can be had by a host of parts; FFT forend or other US made rail system. One part. A&S Engineering trigger frame. One part. Trigger/Disconnector/Hammer kits from FFT or Briley - this counts as three.

You could have your barrel modified by Steve from Rose Action Sports to accept a choke. The receiver extension could be replaced to make the collapsible stock functional. Or, you could buy the other one, swap parts you want, then sell off the neutered one and probably break even.

This sucks to hear. General gun smiths are dangerous. whatever you do, don’t fire it until we can look over everything. I’m certain they reassembled the ARGO plugs wrong. The receiver extension is wrong too. If you can work a deal that it comes to my shop for proper reassembly, I’d be glad to help.

Blue or low yield purple. Reason being you aren’t going to want to heat the carbon fiber tube to remove it down the road for whatever reason.

Adding them to the cart at Impact Weapon Components has been the best pricing I’ve seen lately. 220 bucks for a DF model.

If you’re using the M600DF, your only options at the moment are the factory body or the Modlite 18650 body. The Modlite body mandates that you use the rechargeable cells. The factory body allows you to use the rechargeable battery or the 123A batteries at a reduced output level. Modlite sells KeepPower 18650 cells which top shelf quality. You’ll want their 3,500mAh rated batteries. The NiteCore D2 charger is awesome. It gives you a lot of data about the condition of the battery. They’re inexpensive too. I have several 500 lumen Surefire M600C lamps which run on 123A’s. They’re output is decent. The M600IB is a step above the C with the auto gain benefits which help a lot indoors. Now the M600DF is several magnitudes above both in terms of flood output. I’m probably going to swap over to a DF on my AR15 and leave the IB on the Benelli.